A veggie in Grenoble

Squash time! ¨Photo: Gerry Balding

British blogger and erasmus student Elizabeth Gear shares this post about life as a vegan in the Capital of the Alps. 


Vegetarianism may seem difficult in France what with all the jambon sneaked into everything, but veganism can be even more daunting. Often rare veggie options like gratin and crêpes are swimming in butter, cream and cheese. Both vegetarianism and veganism are however well represented in modern-day France. There are plenty of shops, restaurants, and products which cater for this life choice.

Bio shops often sell a wide range of veggie and vegan products, though at least in Grenoble these are not always exclusively animal-free. They often sell organic meats, fish oils and cans of tuna. With a little bit of French vocabulary under your sleave, they can however be very useful. Végétalien vs végétarien. “Sans oeufs, sans lait, sans viande, sans poisson, sans poulet.”

Cheese can be a great option for veggies, though do look out for prèsure animale, which is in fact animal rennet. If buying in a fromagerie it might be worth checking whether this is an ingredient. Likewise, check for meat stock in soups when ordering seemingly vegetarian options. French onion soup, for example, is usually made with beef stock (and loaded with animal rennet laden cheese). Make sure you recognize the word for ham (jambon) too. This ingredient often makes its way into otherwise vegetarian sandwiches and salads.

Vegans are well accommodated for in those bio shops, though the products are often expensive. Some tofu dishes include cheese as an added ingredient, so be careful for that too. Usually on offer in such shops are various varieties of tofu, today in Satoriz I saw Tofu affumé (smoked), tofu curry (self-explanatory) and Tofu Français (marinated in herbes de provence). Ready made seitan is also an option for those who can eat gluten, which can make for a nice alternative to soya products. Beans, chickpeas and lentils are very common and amongst the cheaper products on the market.

If in need of something in a supermarket, the soja sun company has a range of veggie steaks and burgers which are gluten-free, vegan, and I have so far seen the following flavours: Indian, tomato and basil, and classic.

Both bio shops and supermarkets alike cater for a vegan sweet tooth, with many vegan biscuits, soya yogurts and desserts, and plenty of really good dark chocolate. Very good sorbets are readily available, and often dark chocolate ice cream is also made without milk (you had better ask).

Being a good vegetarian, your diet (should be) is likely to be based on fruit and vegetables. France rules for fresh produce, so you are in for a spot of luck. Throughout the week there are various markets in town which sell a colourful selection of seasonal produce. I am yet to buy something, but can see me popping back come pumpkin and fennel season.

There is a purely vegetarian restaurant, le Mandragore which I am yet to try but will definitely get round to. New to the scene, there is a vegetarian and vegan Italian restaurant, Sapori Antichi, which has rave reviews so far. There is also a veggie and vegan friendly restaurant, Au clair de lunewhich could be worth visiting.Vegetarians and vegans are unlikely to encounter problems here, as many sushi, Indian and crêpe restaurants have plenty of options.

Don’t expect to find much at chain fastfood restaurants. Mcdonalds in the UK may have at least one veggie option, but here it is all meat, as is the French chain Quick. Vegans are likely to find that traditional alpine restaurants are off-limits, though the Provençal cuisine offers more naturally vegan options, such as the famous and now widespread ratatouille, a vegetable stew made from aubergines, red peppers, courgettes, onions, garlic, tomatoes and olive oil.

Nice is also famous for its borrowing from Ligurian cuisine, the socca. It is basically a galette made from chickpea flour, olive oil, water and salt. It is traditionally egg-free and dairy-free. Despite not being very common in other parts of France, it is very easy to find the ingredients (chickpea/gram flour: farine de pois chiche) and to make it at home.Though the presence of meat and dairy may seem quite strong in this traditional mountain town, there is also a counter-culture; the mountain air, bicycle-beaten paths and health conscientiousness of the general population has made les Grenoblois cut back on their consumption of animal derived products.

For more posts from Elizabeth Gear, check out her blog: absconditamontibus.blogspot.fr

7 thoughts on “A veggie in Grenoble”

  1. Hi!

    I am a vegetarian and it is definetely tricky at times to be meatless in France.

    Just a quick note, the Mandragore is now called L’echelle de la grenouille and it’s no longer a vegetarian restaurant but a “bio restaurant” with seasonal food http://www.lechelledelagrenouille.fr/ I haven’t been there but it looks good!

  2. That’s a really good one. I am an Indian and a vegetarian intending to study at GGSB. Do we get rice there? what about wheat flour ? We Indians can’t live without rice and wheat :(

  3. Hi Nidhu,

    Rice and wheat flour are amongst the most commonly eaten foods in Europe too and you will find them everywhere. There are plenty of Indian restaurants in Grenoble though they vary in terms of authenticity (only Norther cuisine unfortunately too). The Bombay was pretty good.

  4. Hey everybody!

    Just heard that this restaurant “Le Wagon” in St Martin d’Hères, has vegan options and gluten free as well!! You just need to ask the Chef, he’s from the Netherlands and uses local fresh products with minimum fat and sugar : Pardadise on Earth! ;)

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