Bread! Photo: Denis Morel

New from our partner Captiv Magazine, this authoritative article about the history of that precious French cultural commodity, bread, covers the history of le pain through to its place in modern French eating habits and ever-evolving baking methods. Read the full article at www.captiv-magazine.fr

Dials. Photo: ericcomando89

English Talk Radio is a talk show in English on 90.8 Radio Campus Grenoble. We talk about film, theatre, finance, restaurants, travel, and have a variety of topical guests. We are four presenters: Kristine Minski talks about finance, Christina Menez talks about China, Mary Zaccai talks about student issues, and Vivian Draper – animatrice/rédactrice – hosts the show. Every Sunday at 12.30pm, and every Wednesday at 7pm on 90.8, Radio Campus Grenoble and live on www.campusgrenoble.org – and also here on Grenoble Life.

The January 22 English Talk Radio show features Trudi Penkler, psychologist and inter-cultural coach and trainer, talking about teenagers and moving. Listen to the full show here.

Les Nouvelles de Grenoble

In the latest post in his blog The Franco-American Daily Deconstructionist; History and Culture in Everyday Life,  John Hess leafs through the City of Grenoble Magazine Les Nouvelles de Grenoble. Here’s what he has to say about it.

Many of you who have the good fortune to live in Grenoble, wait breathlessly for the end of each month, because that means a small portion of your tax payments will be returned to you a hundred-fold, in the form of Les Nouvelles de Grenoble, “the city informational magazine.”

For those of you who do not have this good fortune : the magazine is a glossy, super-sized A4 format affair, arriving free in residents’ mailboxes each month. It is published by the municipal government, at taxpayer expense, and purports to provide helpful information about happenings in Grenoble, especially of a political, social, or cultural nature.

Perhaps you enjoy reading Les Nouvelles: it’s professionally produced, there are lots of color pictures, the articles are short and easy to digest, and it’s all so refreshingly upbeat. When I read Les Nouvelles de Grenoble, I realize that I am living in the world’s most wonderful city. Perhaps I have even died and gone to the urbanists’ paradise. Well, then I go out my door, and harsh reality sets in; but o the illusion, however fleeting, is delightful!

But have you ever wondered about the content of the magazine? For it clearly is not just the neutral statement of city-related current facts and goings-on that you would expect from a publicly-funded publication. There is, of course, the natural phenomenon of editorial selection: the magazine is strangely silent about the crimes, mishaps, and dysfunctionalities that weigh on city life; we hear only about the good stuff. The temptation to intellectual dishonesty seems to be too great, however, for the editors to stop there. What they do report on has to be qualified with glowingly positive adjectives.

So does issue n° 131, October 2009, tell us on the front page that in matters of sustainable development, “Grenoble is keeping its promises”, even though this is a self-evidently worthless statement. If one wants to know if promises are being kept, one generally has the sense not to ask the promise-maker, which is sort of like asking the accused if he’s guilty or not–and basing the verdict on the answer.

On page six of the same issue, we find out that the city-engineered renovation of St Bruno Square has “restored its soul as the lively and convivial heart of the neighborhood.” Well, I hadn’t noticed, but if the city engineers say so, then that’s good enough for me!

On page seven, we find out that there is not just a new crèche in that same neighborhood, but a “spanking brand-new” crèche, which is somehow different from a new crèche, though I suppose appropriate for child-rearing disciplinary purposes.

On page eight, we find out that the Philippeville Square crèche is “new, beautiful and environmentally-friendly”, which will certainly be a relief to parents concerned that their children’s day care was aggravating global climate change, though they may regret that the newness is not spanking in this case; and while some local residents find the crèche “butt-ugly”, they were apparently not interviewed for this article.

On page fourteen, we have another “spanking brand new” building, this time a library in the Teisseire quarter, also qualified as “magnificent.” (If the Teisseire library is already “magnificent”, then what adjective remains to us to describe, say, The New York Public Library, or the Great Library of Alexandria ?) It goes on and on, upbeat snippets about all the wonderful and progressive developments in Grenoble, directly or indirectly thanks to the actions of the city government, culminating in the municipal self-love-fest about sustainable development from page 18 onwards.

How can this sort of thing be possible ? Well, in a country where the press is expected to be partisan and indeed captive of a particular interest group or ideology, and where the state likes to pose as the benefactor to all (and never mind where the money comes from), it is not just possible, but considered quite normal. And this is the problem !

But why do I complain ? You know, in fact, the business model of Les Nouvelles de Grenoble magazine has inspired me. Watch this space, as Grenoble Life becomes John Hess Life, full of interesting articles about how wonderful, nay, ineffably divine, John Hess is, all written in breathless prose by John Hess. You will, of course, pay a monthly subscription fee for the privilege.

Now that the snow in Grenoble has almost melted (insert a “boo!” or “hurray!” here, depending on your proclivity), here is a reminder of what you may or may not now be missing - some magical photos of the city under the snow from our resident photographer Suzanne Bonnefond.

The French Paper website

Michael Streeter, Editor of theFrenchPaper, talks to Vivian Draper of English Talk Radio, 90.8 Radio Campus Grenoble. Read the full interview here.

Vivian Draper: Hello Michael and welcome to Grenoble, even if only in print. It is eight months since we last spoke about theFrenchPaper, what has happened in those last eight months?

Michael Streeter: It’s been busy! In addition to the main paper we’ve produced a number of supplements to go with it, including one on sport and another on winter sports. We have also been hard at work trying to promote the paper in various places. Obviously as your readers know France is a big country and targeting our audience of English-speakers is not always as easy at it might seem, so this has taken up a lot of time and will continue to, I’m sure.

The main thing, however, is that we’ve been trying to maintain and improve our editorial quality. Our aim has always been to produce a quality newspaper about what’s going on in France with a design and feel that can compete with, for example, the best of British national newspapers. That’s the level we’re aiming for and we spend a lot of time on getting it right. Obviously nobody’s perfect, but I’d like to think we’re moving in the right direction. Certainly the feedback we’ve got from readers has been fantastic. I think they can see that a lot of effort and thought goes into each edition. Above all they seem to find us a grownup and enjoyable read, which is great – that’s what we’re aiming for!

Vivian: Printing newspapers has changed vastly in the last 30 years, no more inky fingers?

Michael: Yes, things have certainly changed since I first started in Fleet Street many years ago. Back then you needed to wear gloves if you were handling bundles of paper. The quality of the presses and inks has improved so much – as has the ability to price good quality colour pages. When you compare newspapers of today with those of 30 years ago they are so much bigger, more colourful and, I would argue, much better value for money.

Vivian: Where is theFrenchPaper published?

Michael: It’s published in London by the printers of The Guardian and Observer, though we have no editorial or other link with them. Why there? Not for any chauvinistic reasons, it’s simply that not many presses can currently print the Berliner format we use (it’s half way between a tabloid and broadsheet in size).

Vivian: Is distribution of theFrenchPaper going smoothly?

Michael: Don’t get me started on distribution! Much as I love France there are still some things that baffle and frustrate me here and newspaper distribution is definitely one of them. Let’s just say it’s a ‘challenge’ getting the right number of copies to where we want them to go each month … and if people find it hard to get hold of a copy at their nearest outlet please do let us know. Things are getting better, but it’s a slow process.

Vivian: What is your average day like?

Michael: The first thing is to keep on top of the news. I’ll always listen to the radio news bulletins in the morning (France Inter usually) and then catch up on the Agence France Presse wire service. I also read news websites, newspapers and the weekly magazines such as L’Express and Nouvel Obs. Much of my day is spent coming up with ideas, commissioning and briefing reporters, editing stories and where necessary sending them back to be re-written! The final week before we go to press is obviously the most hectic, and the working day is rarely under 12 hours. There are pages to proofread, headlines to rewrite, captions to check, all the time making sure we aren’t missing anything major.

Vivian: Not only French news in English, you have broadened your scope to include many other areas?

Michael: I think these days a newspaper has to offer more than ‘just’ the news. As a monthly paper we both have a round up of key stories that have affected France in the previous weeks and offer analysis and commentary on those stories we think really help tell the reader something about France and how it works. On top of that there are features, real life stories, lifestyle, travel, motoring, sport, puzzles and crosswords, commentary, advice pages, financial information, pages with advice for small businesses, food, gardening, nature … it’s quite a full list! I see our mission as being to entertain and stimulate as well as to inform.

Vivian: Such a variety of articles too, does each newspaper have a theme?

Michael: To an extent yes, especially if it’s linked to a time of year, such as Christmas, or the summer holidays or the start of the skiing season. However it’s also important that we cover a broad range of what’s going and we need to appeal to a wide range of people so I don’t like to get too tied down to one theme.

Vivian: What has surprised you most about theFrenchPaper since the first issue?

Michael: One has been the reaction of many readers. I did expect people to like the paper as it’s something different, but I have been amazed just how much some people say they love it. It’s not for everyone of course and some people have complained that there’s ‘too much about France in it’. Fair enough, you can’t please all the people all the time, I guess. Another surprise has been how popular we are with some French people – I really hadn’t expected that.

Vivian: Talk about the technology used in editing a newspaper in 2010

Michael: Where would we be without the internet and email? Information gathering is so much easier now because of websites, searchable databases and libraries and so on, though I still prefer to speak to people directly for information if possible – you always get more like that. In terms of the page layout and design process, it’s simply a question of using a publishing software package and having the skills to use it properly to produce the pages. These are all laid out and designed by our great design team, including the photos, and once we’re happy with the pages they are simply emailed to the printers ready for printing. It’s that straightforward, though of course you need the right skill to be able to make the pages look good (that’s down to Nadia, our art editor, not me I hasten to add). With an internet connection you could edit the paper from the top of a mountain!

Vivian: Who is reading theFrenchPaper?

Michael: As I’ve just mentioned quite a few French people! But of course our main readership is among Britons and Americans living in France or coming here on holiday or to visit their second home, as well as Irish residents, Australians, New Zealanders, South Africans and other nationalities who prefer to read in English rather than in French. As for age groups and profiles … very varied. Lots of pensioners read us, but then so too do young working families with children. I think the common theme among readers, though, is that they are all interested in life in France, rather than just life as a foreigner in France, if you see what I mean. They are people who like to look outside the ‘expat bubble’ and want to know what France is doing and what French people are thinking and saying.

Vivian: Your articles on Work & Money are most interesting; also The Eco Worrier, which can be quite funny, in an English sort of way.

Michael: The Work & Money section is very important for us – we want to give readers advice on running their business, on saving money or even what benefits they can legitimately claim here. As for Eco Worrier’s English wit … Graeme is Scottish so I’m not sure how he’ll take that!

Vivian: The small Ads and KidsPaper are lively too – do children really write theFrenchPaper KidsPaper?

Michael: Yes they do, though naturally they get a helping hand from adults too. It’s a section that’s gone down really, really well with young families, including young French families.

Vivian: Recipes, gardening, and giveaways – talk about the giveaways, please

Michael: Well, food and gardening are part of those lifestyle things that many people associate with their life in France so they are very important subjects for us. As for giveaways, many of our readers come from Britain where they are used to their newspaper offering them a variety of promotions, free goods, cut-price deals on so on. So it’s simply part of the mix, something that readers expect. We all like the chance to win a little treat, don’t we?

Vivian: You also have a part of theFrenchPaper called Real Living; I’m thinking of the article about sheep and shepherds, which was so interesting

Michael: Yes I loved that story. France has such a varied landscape and people, and the aim of our real life stories is to bring to life the many characters who have amazing and fascinating lives here – whether French or not.

Vivian: As Editor of theFrenchPaper, you have final say on what goes out in each issue – does it keep you awake at night?

Michael: As an editor you do get used to that kind of decision-making. To be honest, I have always enjoyed that kind of pressure as an editor. I think the toughest thing for me is that theFrenchPaper is a monthly. On a daily paper, which I’m used to, if you felt you’d under or overplayed a subject one day, you had an immediate opportunity to put it right the next day. With a monthly you have to live with your decisions for quite a while!

Vivian: Lindsey Partos on food prices in your January issue was most informative, can we expect more articles like this?

Michael: Definitely. Lindsey has a good track record in food industry journalism and I’m very keen that we do more of this type of consumer story.

Vivian: Ma Belle France is a great read in The French Paper, also the idea that we use more lipstick when the financial outlook is bleak – how about free lipsticks for your great giveaways?

Michael: Lipstick isn’t my speciality subject but I will definitely mention this to one of my better-informed colleagues!

Vivian: The Big Quiz is a super idea in theFrenchPaper – we can feel really well informed, or if we are not, we can sneak a peek at the answers, right?

Michael: Of course – it’s just a bit of fun! That said, it is also a good source of snippets of information, as well as being a lot of work!

Vivian: Of course you don’t work alone, how many permanent staff does theFrenchPaper employ?

Michael: There are two of us who oversee most of the editorial, with another two who look after the design, sourcing photos and so on. Then there are regular freelancers who work on sub-editing, proofreading, columns and other parts of the paper. The vast majority of the content is written by freelance contributors under our guidance. Then there’s the ad and marketing teams.

Vivian: What is next for theFrenchPaper?

Michael: In the paper, we’ll be seeing more supplements and specials on subjects of particular interest to our readers. Essentially my aim is to maintain the quality and reputation we have established and build from there. A key issue is marketing – getting the paper better known. Having launched in June last year I’m sure that the majority of our target audience still doesn’t know we exist. We have to put that right. Another key area is our news website – it’s under construction and we’ll let you know when that’s ready.

Vivian: How about some contact information?

Michael: Well we do have a marketing website at www.thefrenchpaper.com. Here you can subscribe from as little as €29.47 for 14 issues. And on the newsstands we are just €2.50 an issue – which I hope people agree is pretty good value for money. If anyone wants to contact me they are very welcome to email me at: editorial@thefrenchpapaper.com

Vivian: Michael thanks for this interview and we look forward to the next issue of theFrenchPaper

Michael: Thanks for letting me talk about a subject I love – newspapers!

Mixer. Photo: Andrea 'Bau' Pinti

English Talk Radio is a talk show in English on 90.8 Radio Campus Grenoble. We talk about film, theatre, finance, restaurants, travel, and have a variety of topical guests. We are four presenters: Kristine Minski talks about finance, Christina Menez talks about China, Mary Zaccai talks about student issues, and Vivian Draper – animatrice/rédactrice – hosts the show. Every Sunday at 12.30pm, and every Wednesday at 7pm on 90.8, Radio Campus Grenoble and live on www.campusgrenoble.org – and also here on Grenoble Life. 

The 18 December 2009 English Talk Radio show took place at the Grenoble Graduate School of Business and featured GGSB’s Judith Bouvard, Dean and Director, and Mary Zaccai, International Press Officer. Listen to the show here

Building work at Chamrousse

New from our partner Captiv Magazine, this comprehensive article details the recent investments – to the tune of 13m euro – made at the Chamrousse ski resort near Grenoble. Find out what has been done and why at www.captiv-magazine.fr

Sanford Kogan and Patricia Andreoli-Jones

Patricia Andreoli-Jones meets light sculptor Sanford Kogan in advance of the opening of his exhibition at MK’ Gallery in Grenoble this week.

When I met Sanford Kogan for the first time yesterday, he was trying to purchase an antique glove-making machine from the oldest glove shop in Grenoble for one of his light sculptures. The shop keeper couldn’t oblige, as this object will soon be found in a glove museum. However, with the introduction of the Musical Transformation Lights artist I was hooked and followed Sandy just around the corner to the MK’ gallery where some of his artwork is exhibited, the grand opening being Friday 11^th December at 6.30 pm.

You can find a traditional blueberry-picking comb, threaded onto a weaving bobbin on a metal pulley pedestal, the light diffused by an 18^th century parchment (dated July 28, 1755) being just right to set a warm atmosphere, see photo 1 below.

photo 1

A trumpet held in mid-air by an art-deco foot and a light glowing through an opaque glass flower could be used as a working light (see photo 2 below).

photo 2

One of the bigger pieces is also on exhibition, when it’s lit you can truly understand the idea of light-play with the shadows it throws on the surrounding walls and ceiling (see photo 3 below).

photo 3

Wanting to know more I suggested a drink at the Bookworm Café, just over the bridge from us (top).

Patricia: Where do you come from, how long have you been in Grenoble, and what brought you here in the first place?

Sanford Kogan: I was born in Richmond, Virginia, where I grew up. I was sent to France by my company as a European Program Manager. In my spare time, I pursued my art, and for two years now I have had more time for my art explorations. As a teenager I was into photography and this sensitised me to light in a great way. I started my light sculptures in 1985 with different musical instruments. Eventually this expanded to include old tools, fireplace pots, heat reflectors, handwritten paper and musical scores, balance scale trays, faucets, spigots, spoons, metal wheels, and binoculars, to name only a few. These objects can be typically found in garage and boot sales, my main aim being then and to this day, to play with light, to transform it through different objects.

Patricia: Has your art evolved since you came to France?

Sanford: There’s an immense richness of material to be found in the local brocantes: art deco lamp shades, brass and copper bits, 18^th and 19^th century hand-written paper, as well as 70 year old pieces of machinery with surprising shapes, old locks that only need to be opened to reveal an intricate world of wheels, all of which inspires me for new sculptures. Oh, and wrenches and faucets of the ’30s, do you know what I mean … ?

I didn’t, so there was a good excuse to visit Sanford’s “workshop”, as he modestly calls it. Overlooking the Place Sainte Claire, a beautiful old apartment, perfectly waxed wooden floors (I was asked to take my shoes off), high ceilings with the most exquisite art-nouveau chandeliers (restored and put together by my host). And standing to attention – more sculptures, bigger, more imposing than the ones in the shop. Almost human by their presence, each individual has a unique way of lighting the room. I’m amongst friends here, I wouldn’t mind spending the evening in their company … Sanford comes in brandishing a wrench:

Sanford: See this, isn’t it just beautiful?

I’m back on earth again and glad he said “it”, my finely sculpted friends wouldn’t understand such enthusiasm for such a crude object. Only a true creator can show a wrench such devotion. I left shortly afterwards, my head full of his mind-boggling creations.

The exhibition will be at the MK’ Gallery*, 4 rue Dominique Villars, until 31^st December, open from Monday to Saturday from 2.30 pm to 6.30 pm

After this date, or for more information, please contact S.D. Kogan:
sdkogan (at) yahoo.com
www.musical-transformations.com

*MK’ Gallery is held by artist Marie Killy. Her pastels, colored inks and oils depicting life in the south of France and North Africa are an enchantment.

Radio On. Photo: Flavijus

English Talk Radio is a talk show in English on 90.8 Radio Campus Grenoble. We talk about film, theatre, finance, restaurants, travel, and have a variety of topical guests. We are four presenters: Kristine Minski talks about finance, Christina Menez talks about China, Mary Zaccai talks about student issues, and Vivian Draper – animatrice/rédactrice – hosts the show. Every Sunday at 12.30pm, and every Wednesday at 7pm on 90.8, Radio Campus Grenoble and also live on www.campusgrenoble.org – and streaming here on Grenoble Life.

English Talk Radio November 27 podcast

Guests on 27 November 2009 English Talk Radio:
Mandy Besson talks about “Peter Pan – a pantomime”, January 20–23 2010 at Cité Scolaire Internationale (information & ticket purchase : gregg.west@ac-grenoble.fr )
James Dalrymple talks about the English language web site Grenoble Life
ETR Presenters Kristine Minski, Mary Zaccai and Vivian Draper, sound engineer Bertrand Tappaz

Saint Hugues Church, Chartreuse

 Cynthia Caughey is author of The Video Diary of an American in France – her adventures as an American woman starting life over at 50 in the French Alps … with videos, photos, regional recipes, travel tips, and a few laughs about adjusting to life in France. She has kindly agreed to share this video about a visit to the Chartreuse.

by Cynthia Caughey

“Chartreuse is a small region about 30 minutes outside of Chambéry in Isére. There are several quaint, mountain villages which are worth driving through, but what’s even more beautiful is the scenery of the mountains, hills, forests and pastures. It may be the most gorgeous scenery I’ve seen yet in the region which explains why we frequent it on our motorbike.

The main little town is called St. Pierre du Chartreuse; near the town are the museum and the Abby, which was first settled in the 1100s by a Monk who came to the area for isolation and solitude. The Abby is still occupied by monks who have taken an oath of silence. Visitors are usually not allowed. Their income is made from the liquor they produce which is also called Chartreuse. It’s quite famous in France. It has an herbal taste, and frankly, I don’t care for it, however you can take a tour of where they make it and other liquors in Voiron, which is a 45 minute drive away. The tour includes a tasting of the local liquors – some of the fruit flavored ones are excellent. The monks run almost the entire operation from their computers back at the abby and only two monks know the Chartreuse liquor recipe, which dates back to the 1700s.

For me, however, the best place to stop in St. Pierre du Chartreuse is the Saint Hugues Church. It is filled with contemporary religious art by Arcabas and is glorious to see. Most French people in Chambéry don’t even know about the church so this is truly a wonderful secret to discover.”

Rebecca Skillman at work

Rebecca Skillman practices shiatsu from her home near Uriage and also in a well-being centre in Meylan. From the UK originally, she did her practitioner training in Bristol before moving to France at the end of 2004. Grenoble Life wanted to find out more.

Grenoble Life: What is shiatsu and what are the health benefits?

Rebecca Skillman: Shiatsu is a type of massage. It comes from Japan and literally means finger pressure. As well as fingers, I use my palms, elbows, knees – depending on what part of the body is being worked on. I may also include some stretches and other movements to free up the body and release the tensions that many of us develop.

Have a look at www.shiatsuinfo.org to see the range of health benefits (just about every condition can benefit since mind and body are so intricately linked). On the site there’s also a summary of recent research which shows that science is now backing up what practitioners have known for decades about the positive effects of shiatsu. But here in France it’s important not to shout too loudly about this as shiatsu is only recognised as l’art du bien-être – fine as far as it goes, but it can work at a much more profound level for those who want that.

GL: Where did you train and how long have you been practicing shiatsu in Grenoble?

Rebecca: I trained at the British School of Shiatsu, in the UK, between 2001 and 2004 and I’ve been practising in France since the beginning of 2005.

GL: Was it difficult to set up your business in Grenoble?

Rebecca: I am in an association, Chemins du Bien-être, and that works fine because I have a modest level of activity. Since I moved here the auto-entrepreneur statute – a new law aimed at helping small businesses register themselves legally and more simply – has been introduced and I may investigate this further.

GL: Describe a shiatsu session with you.

Rebecca: In an initial session I would spend 5–10 minutes getting to know what the client is hoping for from the session and whatever they want to tell me about what’s going on in their life. The more I understand this the better I can judge what type of session will give most benefit – each session is unique. I think I can safely guarantee that it will always be relaxing on a physical level. But, by putting the receiver in touch with their body, and all the emotions that are bound up with it, shiatsu can also support and release a range of emotional issues and help the person move forward in their life.

A typical treatment lasts 45–50 minutes and takes place on a futon mattress at floor level. The receiver is clothed and the style of touch is a gentle (or vigorous) pressure rather than the sweeping movements of, say, Californian massage. It can therefore suit people who prefer a more neutral and less intimate touch than with oil-based therapies.

GL: Is shiatsu well known in France, compared to in your native country?

Rebecca: Shiatsu is becoming increasingly well known in France. It is supported by professional bodies like the FFST, and if you are looking for a practitioner in any département you can start by looking on their website. Shiatsu is now sufficiently well recognised for mutuelles like Alptis to include it in the therapies they reimburse. That said, the relationship between the medical establishment and complementary therapies is not as developed as in, say, the UK. And shiatsu is not integrated into public healthcare to the same extent.

GL: What reaction have you had from your customers?

Rebecca: People sometimes say they feel lighter – or even that they felt like they had wings! And several have noticed an improved range of movement with muscular-skeletal imbalances. They often sleep better. And the effect can last days or even longer.

Some feedback from my clients:

« Celà a été vraiment très, très efficace, et que je n’hésiterai pas à en parler autour de moi. »

“I felt very good after the massage – positive and energised.”

« Je te remercie pour ce beau travail qui passe par tes mains, tes gestes, ta tête, ton accueil de ta personne et de ton intuition. Une invitation à ce que la vie et l’énergie trouvent un chemin pour circuler. »

“I just wanted to thank you again today for the Shiatsu – it really was a great session. My hips, etc. were really tight yesterday and now I feel great. In general, afterwards, I feel physically better than I have in a while.”

GL: How can we book a shiatsu session with you?                        

Rebecca: You can contact me by email (rebecca_wwng (at) yahoo.com) or phone (04 76 00 06 13).

Hammam – Thermes Brides les Bains. Photo: S.Kempinaire

Check out this new article from our partner Captiv Magazine about the history and practice of hydrotherapy in France.  From water-massage to mineral baths and hammams, the article is a thorough exploration of the subject and includes a handy guide to the region’s finest spa retreats. Read the full piece here: www.captiv-magazine.fr

Bioclimatic house, Isère. Photo: Christian Pedrotti

Home to painter-sculptor Bernard Roudet, this stunning bioclimatic house nestled in the hills between Vinay and Tullins faces the Vercors mountain range. Built in wood in the 1980s by architect Jean-Pierre Mercier, this energy-efficient home dominates the Isère valley. Find out more on www.captiv-magazine.fr

Captiv Magazine website

Grenoble Life is delighted to announce its partnership with CAPTIV Magazine. We will be bringing you discerning articles on Grenoble and its surroundings from the CAPTIV Magazine website, and vice versa. “CAPTIV Magazine is a free magazine available in paper and online format. It focuses on local news and lifestyle with a strong emphasis on quality content and high-end reviews. With that respect, we are very happy to have Grenoble Life as an editorial partner” (Benoit Dupont, Webmaster, CAPTIV). Watch this space for updates or see www.captiv-magazine.fr

Captiv Magazine meets Grenoble Life

A barn in Vercors

Suzanne Bonnefond is an enthusiastic amateur photographer and contributor to the Grenoble Life gallery. A long-term resident of the Grenoble who has also lived in Paris and London, she kindly agreed to share her sightseeing photos around Grenoble.

by Suzanne Bonnefond

Photography is my hobby. I like to take pictures of scenery, romantic places and close-up portraits of flowers. I always try to give my photos a poetic touch.

In Grenoble we can easily reach a lot of beautiful places without having to walk for a long time. These photos will show you wonderful places for family walks.

waterfall near la Grave

in summer … Lavaldens

Chartreuse, le Granier

la Meije

Fishing in a mountain lake in Belledonne

le Chazelet, Oisans

le Chazelet in July

Wild flowers in Oisans – Gentian

Just a leaf

le Chazelet

The glacier – la Meije (you can reach it by cable car)

la Meije

la Meije

The glacier – la Meije (you can reach it by cable car)

la Meije seen in summer from l’Alpe d’Huez

“Keep walking at rue Saint Laurent”

Prakhar Amba is an avid amateur photographer and regular contributor to the Grenoble Life Gallery. On 18th July 2009 he participated in the Worldwide Photowalk in Grenoble, Grenoble Life invited Prakhar to share his photos and experience …

by Prakhar Amba

“Keep Walking” says the logo of a leading whisky manufacturer. It is slightly difficult for me to imagine the sight of a figure in a black hat and waistcoat striding along with a half empty bottle in his hand. Oops! He tripped and fell down! Anyway, it could serve well for photographers who like to bring out the extraordinary in the seemingly mundane tasks and places which occupy our lives. On 18th July a Worldwide Photowalk was organized where more than 32,000 photographers walked (and shot thousands of photos) in more than 900 cities of the world. I walked in Grenoble.

For me the best way to see a city is not to visit its monuments and museums but to walk in its streets, for it provides a window to observe the daily rhythms of the life of its denizens. So I love to walk, in the rush hour or the afternoon pause, to observe life flow around, oblivious of the clothes lines, the graffiti, the flowerpots on the balcony, the empty beer cans, the rusty paint and so many small things which gives each city a unique character. On July 18th 2009 I walked in the company of 40 other photographers, which made it even more interesting because each individual has his own way of approaching the street. It was a sensory overload to walk the streets of Grenoble through the eyes (or the lens) of so many.

"Kids with cameras"

We started from Place aux herbes and walked towards the Quai underneath snow flake-shaped electric lights and worn-out shoes hanging between balconies. I am yet to understand the significance of the shoes being hung in the city streets – back at home it would be to ward-off evil. We walk through narrow alleyways along shops evoking Aromes D’Asie & D’Orient and several restaurants from all four corners of the world. All around me are people shooting and, well, we are a sight in ourselves. Seeing so many cameras a little boy gets excited and has his moment of fame.

"Rock da party"

A little further along someone is enjoying his cuppa of mint tea in a couscous shop. If the world was black and white, England would be tea and France would be café, but thankfully we live in shades of grey and so in France we can enjoy aromatic tea and tisane.

"Mint tea"

Closer to the Quai Stéphane Jay a girl walks by as the signal turns green. As an Indian, I am told by the French how colourful my country is. No doubt, but I should say so is France, home to the fashion industry which is, afterall, all about colour. In India tea is always brown but here I have drunk tea in shades of vanilla, mint, orange and several others. A glass of red wine adds colour to your meal. And red and green chairs add colour to the streets of Grenoble.

"... and she walks away"

Finally the Quai, to the sight Grenoble is famous for: Les Bulles. There was a photographer who made the same shot with a pinhole camera. He had stuck a hole in a tin spaghetti can and put a black tape to cover it. Inside there was light-sensitive film: peel the tape off to make an exposure. I always saw those in physics books but this was the first time in action. It was difficult to frame shots at the bridge because there were so many photographers around. As I walked across the bridge an old lady walked her four dogs, someone flew a kite in the middle of the bridge and many watched the world pass by from their balconies.

Grenoble - Les Bulles

On the other side of the bridge at “La Cymaise” someone enjoyed his smoke while another his café and croissant. And all the while people kept shooting. There was one crouched on road waiting for the man to light his smoke. As an old photographer’s guidebook says, “one mans smoke is another man’s photo”. Ok, no one says that but I personally find smokers an interesting subject. The way they hold the stick, the smoke breathing out of the nose and the signs of pleasure of their face.

"Café and croissant"

"Smokers at La Cymaise"

"Draw a smoke"

Now we climb towards the Musée Dauphinois, and here its not the artwork displayed inside but the gentle curve of a door knob which makes me wonder of the countless hands which turned it.

"Turn me gently"

Have you seen the movie Amélie (Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain)? In the movie one of Snow White’s dwarves travels around the world getting photographed at all the major sights. People have their idiosyncrasies, they like to get photographed with their Bugs Bunny and Mickey Mouse at the Taj Mahal or the Eiffel Tower. I met one who liked to photograph his (not her) Barbie doll.

"Barbie on a fence"

We climb down and walk through Place Victor Hugo to one of Grenoble’s well kept secrets, the Garage Hélicoidale just behind the FNAC. You enter it amidst the sooty walls and smell of fumes not expecting to see much really but its so much more than just un parking. Numerous floors wind upwards in a circular helix topped by a glass roof that becomes its source of skylight, emphasizing and illuminating its climbing gradient. The best part of the for me was to see the whole structure reflected in a car parked in the basement.

"Garage Hélicoidale"

Goodbyes said and ‘Au revoir’ wished and we disperse. I walk back home with the thought in my head “Keep walking and keep shooting” – for in each nook and corner of our world are hidden moments worth capturing. Even garages can be more than just for parking your car and then forgetting where you left it.