A detail from this year's poster

Grenoble Life editor James Dalrymple met with Grenoble’s foremost English theatre group, Upstage, to find out about their 20th anniversary plans. Here is what he has to report.

Just before Christmas I had the pleasure of meeting David Simpson, Claude Deladoeuille and Katherine Upjohn of Upstage, all buzzing with excitement about this year’s production, which coincides with the theatre group’s 20^th anniversary.

For the 2012 anniversary production the Upstage team have chosen Patrick Barlow’s farcical stage adaptation of The 39 Steps, based on John Buchan’s 1915 novel and the 1935 film of the same name by Alfred Hitchcock. As always, the choice of play depends on the possibility of featuring an ensemble cast comprising a balance between male-female roles and major-minor parts, while providing a contrast to the year before (Upstage 2011 was a production of Arthur Miller’s comparatively laugh-free The Crucible). Although Patrick Barlow’s script requires four actors to share a multitude of roles, Upstage have reworked it for a cast of 11 in what promises to be a “heady mixture of suspense, romance and espionage,” and, of course, laughs.

The other news is that Upstage is now an association which, while continuing to draw its cast and crew and from pupils of the International Lycée at Cité Internationale Scolaire, is now also officially independent from it. While this change of status will change little ostensibly for the time being, in the future Upstage looks set to become more open to individuals and organisations outside the framework of CSI.

Now that Upstage’s structure has changed, so too has the scale of its ambition. With previous alumni returning to offer their support, the team emphasizes the transformative “blossoming” effect Upstage has on its participants, some of whom have gone on to study at renowned film and theatre schools. One such former Upstage actor, Matias Gaggiotti, will be returning to direct two new Upstage productions in collaboration with Le Créarc (Centre de Création de Recherche et des Cultures) for the annual festival in Grenoble, Les Rencontres du Jeune Théâtre Européen, 5–14 July 2012. Watch this space for news on that.

Casting is already in place and members of the public are welcome at rehearsals, which are well under way. The team are, however, thus far holding their cards close to their chest as concerns how they plan render for the stage – among other spectacular things – a plane crash, a fight on a moving train, Scotch mist, and scenes that take place on a mile-long bridge. As always, Upstage promises imaginative solutions to these demands, with lighting and sound to be provided by a technical crew which is also drawn from the English section at CSI. While this year’s participants have sworn not to watch the Hitchcock film and to interpret the Patrick Barlow script their own way, the team will be hoping to better the movie’s authentic 1930s costume aesthetic.

Watch this space, or the Petit Bulletin, for news on performances; tickets will be made available at the usual outlets (FNAC, Carrefour, Géant, U).

What archives used to look like before the digital revolution. Photo by dolescum

Grenoble Life editor James Dalrymple delves into the archives to relive some of the highs and lows of the past few years online in the Capital of the Alps.

A great many articles have been published on Grenoble Life since we started in October 2008, contributed by a wide range of contributors from Britain, the USA and Australia, to India and France itself (or should that be herself?). It occurs to me that a number of them deserve revisiting, if only because I can’t make them all instantly present on the front page at the same time. Moreover,  some my personal favourites – perhaps owing to the dark arts of Google – seem to have fallen off the radar. In any case, here is a little sum-up of what you may have missed from the Grenoble Life archives.

It may be unfashionably erudite for a website built upon social media, but Grenoble Life has hosted a number of well-informed and beautifully written pieces about the city’s rich past. For a potted history of the Capital of the Alps, you won’t do better than this splendid two-parter, while one of the Dauphiné’s more colourful historical characters is dissected, literally, here.

The history of any region of France must also necessarily be the story of its food and drink, and Grenoble is no different. These posts on the popular local green stuff, Chartreuse, and the humble walnut, also known as noix de Grenoble, provide a nice entry point into two regional specialties. Meanwhile the city’s contemporary food culture – from high to low – has been celebrated here in a number of ways, from this ode to Grenoble’s foremost covered market Les Halles Sainte Claire, to advice on where to find “decent hot chillis here and stuff like lemongrass, galangal, and other Southeast Asian vegetables and spices,” or where an “impoverished young person” can get cheap eats “served with customary indifference and a bad attitude.” By contrast, the cities bars and cafés have been received with greater warmth here and here.

With Grenoble being surrounded by mountains, the site has not neglected to mention skiing, particularly the bargain basement variety, while the city itself has been treated as both a travel destination in itself (for once) and the starting point for epic journeys on “The world’s least user-fixable vehicle.” Skiing asides, the imposing massifs have also provided inspiration to budding climbers and photographers alike, proving there is more to the Alps than the snow, while Grenoble Life’s armchair mountain enthusiasts have been able to “take a walk on the wild side.”

If that convinced you that Grenoble only catered for les sportifs, I would like to think – from its thriving music and cinema scene (covered here and here) to its brocantes – the cultural side of the city has not been entirely neglected. Add to that the opportunities for young people to participate in English-speaking theatre and musical events for a charitable cause, the city has something to offer for those, like myself, with “gym commitment issues.”

Grenoble Life hasn’t always been about consensus, however. The French education system has proved a passionate subject among English-speaking residents past and present, both for its detractors and supporters.  The exigencies of French administration have also come under scrutiny, whether it be for starting your own business or simply getting a valid visa.

A critical eye has also been cast upon Grenoble’s public conveniences, albeit with a wink, while the greatest controversy was sparked by Grenoble Life’s Daily Deconstructionalist, sadly inactive of late, whose acerbic takes on French road safety campaigns and the City of Grenoble Magazine drew a colourful response. While there is no harm in vigorous debate, perhaps it was the gathering clouds of acrimony that inspired me to write this well-attended general Grenoble love-in.

And all this barely scratches the surface, given that I have not mentioned the many illuminating interviews and practical posts that have graced these pages over the years. I hope that Grenoble Life will continue to be a source of information, discussion and amusement to English-speaking residents for some time to come. That said, I should mention that none of this would have been possible without the goodwill of aforementioned contributors, and that I still very much welcome your blogging suggestions, no matter how subjective they are, or how new to the city you may be. Your participation is, and has always been, the life-blood of the site.

Join the Accessibility Movement at jaccede.com

On Saturday October 8th Jaccede.com is organising an Accessibility Day in Grenoble to raise awareness for people with limited mobility and promote accessible locations in the city.

Desipite being surrounded by mountains, Grenoble is a highly accessible city, and one of the few to have an innovative official project underway to make three areas of the city completely accessible by 2015.

However, finding an accessible school, university or company, going shopping or travelling around … all of these normally simple activities can easily become a nightmare for people with li­mited mobility. Jaccede.com’s objective is to promote equal opportunities for such people by:

• Making information that will improve the daily lives for people with limited mobility (PLM) readily accessible
• Inspiring people with limited mobility to participate in a mass movement and encourage them to come out of isolation
• Increasing public awareness of accessibility issues and of the French law of February 11, 2005
• Promoting accessible locations
• Creating a movement and civic consciousness promoting accessibility for everyone

Jaccede.com’s Accessibility Days aim to:

• Identify accessible locations and register them on www.jaccede.com to make them available to everyone
• Raise awareness among local businesses, public officials and the public regarding the advantages of accessibility

October 8th Grenoble Accessibility Day:

• Meeting point: La Maison des Associations – 6 Rue Berthe de Boissieux
• 10–11.30am: welcome and training
• 11.30–3pm: collection of information on accessible locations using the Jaccede kit – lunch break
• 3.30–5pm: uploading of info and addresses on www.jaccede.com
• 5pm: feedback on the day and closing drinks (back at Maison des Associations)

Jaccede.com is still scouting for plucky volunteers for the big day, both to roam the streets for accessible locations, and also to help the organizers with the practicalities such as handing out maps, welcoming volunteers etc.

Sign up at www.jaccede.com and join the Accessibility Movement or call 01 43 71 98 10 to find out more. The site is soon going multilingual, and plans to branch out its operations in the UK and abroad.

Sunday school

Vickie Allen shares her experiences of a rentrée of a different kind at St Marc’s English Speaking Church, Grenoble.

Last week children donned their cartables as the mass rentrée began. Schools and universities across France once again filled with students of all ages, embarking on the new academic year. Some approached the gates with a little anticipation, I’m sure, but all the students crossed the threshold with the knowledge that ahead of them lay new skills, new insights, new friends and a new, increased understanding of how the world works. But it wasn’t just full-time students who were digging out their cahiers and stylos.

Sunday morning marked a return to the classroom of the Adult Sunday School at St Marc’s English Speaking Church, Grenoble. I joined the class last spring, keen to gain a more in-depth understanding of the Bible, a more intellectual understanding of my faith. A small class of just four, we found the discussions of the Gospels inspiring and informative.

Lead by the pastor, Stephen Coffin, classes centred on a reading from the Gospels, putting them in their the socio-historical context as well as exploring the descriptions of Jesus and his life from our basis of faith. As last term came to an end, we prayed for a larger class that could enjoy the teaching as much as we did, and would enable some more lively and varied discussions. Our prayers were answered and on Sunday morning we were a group of nine.

The first day of school is often spent easing students back into study and it was no different for us at the Adult Sunday School. The new term’s theme is the letters of the New Testament, many (but not all, as we learned) written by Paul. We looked at the social history of the time, the way letters were written, how they were carried and the language used. I was fascinated to learn that Paul wrote his letters in an everyday, colloquial Greek rather than the formal Greek more often used by those educated enough to be able to write. This simple language was more effective in reaching the audience and reminded me of the first published translation of the Bible from Latin by Martin Luther in the 16th century. We also discussed Paul’s travels in and around the Mediterranean, looking at maps of the familiar landmasses, marked with the ancient cities of Thessalonica, Antioch and Corinth.

As the lesson came to a close we were given our homework; to read Thessalonians I and II. With the historical and social context fresh in our minds, these letters will spring to life for us as we start to delve into Paul’s message to Christians throughout time. We’re still a small group and would love you to join us and gain a greater understanding of the Bible.

The Adult Sunday School at St Marc’s English Speaking Church meets at 9.30am every Sunday morning and is conducted in English. Services (which follow the Anglican format) start at 10.45am during which there is also Sunday School for children aged 2-11 and a youth group. The congregation typically swells at this time of year as families return from their summer holidays and students arrive. For more information, visit St Marc’s.

Destination Oisans: Photos, films and thoughts on the reality of life in the mountains.

September. Photo by rosemary

April Buchanan explains the concept of la rentrée for the uninitiated, and tells us all about France Etats-Unis Grenoble‘s activities coming up from September.

Bonjour Grenoble! It’s April here, back again with more news about what’s happening at France Etats-Unis Grenoble, your local chapter of the national franco-american association in France! And now that’s it’s officially the “rentrée,” it’s time to start marking your calendars, because we’ve got lots of great stuff coming up very soon — parties, music, brunch, apéros, and more! I’ll give you all the details in a minute, but first, I thought you might like to know … what exactly IS this “rentrée” everyone keeps mentioning?

Well, whether you’ve been in Grenoble for years, or are just getting your bearings, you have surely noticed people saying, “C’est la rentrée!” This phrase, loosely translated to “It’s the return,” is getting its fair share of use right now, and especially in the first two weeks of September — it’s almost as popular as “Bonne Année” during the month of January! That’s because, more so than just any old back-to-school time, here in France it means new beginnings in many things in our lives, and a fresh look or change to the old daily routine. Okay, you say … but why is it such a big deal?

I remember when I was a kid, I asked my parents if they got the summer off work like I got the summer off of school. They of course looked at me like I was crazy, and painfully informed me that no, adults must work all summer long! I remember feeling a little sad for them, and dreaded the day when I too would have no more summer vacation. So, needless to say, I am very grateful to be living and working in France, where most people take all or part of their 5-7 weeks of vacation during the months of July and August!

This means that some regions of France literally shut down, pack their bags, and go! If you were in Grenoble during the month of August, you may have felt like you were in a ghost town! That’s because a large part of the population left town for other, more touristy regions (like the Southern and Western coasts, as well as Paris) which host the masses of holiday-goers every year and enjoy the profits they bring in. And when it’s all over, everyone heads back home well-rested and gets ready for La Rentrée! And this entails much more than just back-to-school time for children and university students — it also means that everyone gets back to work after a much appreciated long break. It’s a time to get back together with co-workers and friends and compare holiday photos, tan lines, and catch up on each other’s news. It’s a time to re-evaluate personal and professional goals, or breathe fresh life into an ongoing project. It’s amazing how a little vacation time can really energize and motivate a person, which means they do a better job at work! But the implications of La Rentrée don’t stop there…

La Rentrée also means that the government gets back to business, and politicians start making appearances on talk shows, putting the wheels in motion for new campaigns or policies they are pushing. It’s also the time when new television programming starts, with new seasons of series: new movies also come out at the cinema. September is also the start of the much-anticipated literary season, or La Rentrée Littéraire, with thousands of new book titles released during the Autumn months, and book fairs popping up all over the place, in anticipation of the literary awards to be announced at the end of the season. Clothing shops put the new collections in the shop windows, and all the restaurants, bars, cafés and other shops that were closed for August (while the owners took their holiday, to the great annoyance of those who did not!) finally reopen their doors, often with a new item on the menu or a fresh coat of paint.

And while everyone is making a fresh start and buzzing with motivation, La Rentrée is also the prime time to start a new hobby, sign up for a sport, or (DRUMROLL PLEASE……) join a club or association!

Here in Grenoble, there are all kinds of activities for people with all kinds of interests, everything from African dancing to Manga drawing. And for us anglophones, there are more than a couple of English-speaking groups that meet up regularly and organize a variety of fun events all year long, including ours — France Etats-Unis! Clubs and associations like ours are a great way to meet lots of interesting people and discover a wide variety of fun things to do around Grenoble. What kinds of things? Well I’m glad you asked!

To start off, the first Wednesday of every month (except August, of course!), France Etats-Unis has a little get-together we call the ‘Hotspot.’ This is a casual come-as-you-are social event, to have a drink if you wish, and have a laugh with new and old friends. This is a great after-work, pre-dinner break that takes the edge off of mid-week stress. But in addition to the monthly Hotspot, we organize all kinds of events, all year long!

Here’s what we’ve got coming up this Fall:

• Our next Hotspot, kicking off the “rentrée” of course, will be: Wednesday, September 7th, 6:30 p.m. at the Maison de l’Internationale. It is located in the Jardin de Ville, just in front of the grassy lawn of the old L’Hôtel de Lesdiguières.
• The first of many France Etats-Unis events this year is a Jazz Brunch on September 25th in Montbonnot. Come have a traditional Sunday morning brunch while grooving on some excellent music from local favorites, The Harlem Rhythm Band!
• Then of course in October we’re looking forward to everyone’s favorite party excuse: Halloween! October 29th at La Ferme Heurard in Seyssins. It just wouldn’t be right to miss out on the crazy costumes and goofy shenanigans that a Halloween party is known for, something that is starting to become more mainstream in France.
• In November, a traditional Autumnal Thanksgiving dinner will make you feel right at home in Grenoble, whether you’re American or not!

These fun happenings are just the beginning of a great year of fantastic things to do, including nature outings and cultural events for a start. And of course, since our goal is to promote friendship and understanding between cultures, you don’t have to be strictly American or French to enjoy these events or to become a member of France Etats-Unis! Everyone is welcome!

To sign up for our email newsletter and receive reminders of upcoming events, just click the link on our website (under construction): www.france-etatsunis-grenoble.com. You can also find us on Facebook as ‘France Etats-Unis Grenoble,’ and stay up to date with all the details for upcoming events, Hotspots, and even share photos of an event that you’ve participated in! For more details or any other questions, please email me at: communications@france-etatsunis-grenoble.com.

So now you’re all set for La Rentrée in Grenoble: back to school, back to work, and back to a busy social life and event calendar! Bon courage à tous et “Bonne Rentrée!”

The shape of things to come!

In the third and final part of her blog about being an expecting mother in France, Shonah Wraith describes the last three months of her pregnancy.

Before you leave your house this trimester you might want to read this article! There is an ever increasing need to use facilities, rest and organise at this stage of the process.

This trimester follows on very closely to the second, in terms of what you have to do at the doctors and the laboratoire d’analyses médicales. You continue on your monthly visits to the doctor and they basically follow the same template:

Doc: “Hello. How are you feeling?”
Me: “Good thank you, all seems well”
Doc: “Good, Please go behind that screen…”
Doc: “OK, all looks good, blood pressure fine, weight OK”
Me: “OK”
Doc: “See you next month, thank you”

By the time my last appointment came and went within a matter of five very small units of time I was really upset that that was all. I had been reading many books from the UK saying that in the last month you see a midwife every week, they hold your hand and walk you through every step of this nerve-racking time. Because, even though for the last six months you have known you are pregnant, it is not really until you are doing ante-natal classes, practising breathing, visualising the work that is in front of you that you really realise you are pregnant and you have to get this “little” bundle out into the world, somehow!

Perhaps France is pregnancy for the fearless! No hand-holding. No floaties. Just jump in at the deep end and swim and here are some cold hard medical facts to help you keep afloat! Speaking of the medical side of the third trimester, there are some prescriptive activities you need to undertake within these three months.

You will continue to have your monthly blood tests, plus some. At about 28 weeks you will have to have your blood glucose measured – allow time for this. You have to go to the laboratoire d’analyses médicales in the morning, have blood taken, drink an extremely sweet drink, sit in the waiting room for an hour and then have more blood taken. Take a good book! Apparently it is a good idea not to indulge in delicious sugary goodies in the 24 hours preceding this. Unfortunately I read this the morning of my test, so I could not take back the scones, cappuccino and caramel slice I had eaten the evening before! But, to put your minds at rest, I passed.

Somewhere closer to the end of the pregnancy you have to have a swab taken – and just a heads up, this is not a mouth, ear or nose swab. This is also done at the laboratoire d’analyses médicales, no book necessary!

The French are very pro-epidural – péridurale – therefore it is necessary to have a visit with an anaesthetist before giving birth. He or she will ensure you are physically able to have the procedure done, then you will have a big green tick on your file to say YES you are able. Then they can wait outside the salle de travail for you to give them the nod of approval, which allows them to come and relieve your discomfort with a really huge needle! You may want to check with you doctor where this appointment takes place – mine was at the clinic I was going to give birth in – then any number of the 20 anaesthetists that worked there would be the one to administer the epidural.

It is also a good idea – if where you are going to give birth offers it – to do a tour of the facility. As each clinic/ hospital is different it is good to see what you need to do in terms of checking in (I went to the clinique Belledonne and I did not check in until about two months prior to giving birth. However, as mentioned before, each clinic and hospital have their own regulations. It is worth checking with your doctor what the process involves. From speaking to other Mums to be, some had to check in within the first three months!), where to arrive, do you need to call before-hand, who is allowed in the salle de travail and what happens in the cases of unexpected emergencies. This process helps you to feel more in control over a situation you really have no control over!

And, of course this trimester you have the final look at your baby before you meet them in person, in the third of three ultrasounds. If you have made the decision not to find out the sex of your little one, I would be tempted not to look at the screen during this process. I only say this as the only thing we saw – and could definitely decipher – of our son’s anatomy during this scan was two rather large appendages directed squarely at the transducer (on two separate occasions mind you!), and he wasn’t waving with both hands or “hanging ten”! So, if we didn’t know before that moment we were having a boy, we would have had NO DOUBTS after this ultrasound.

One last piece of paperwork that you may need to deal with. Fully paid maternity leave in France is 16 weeks in total. It is mandatory to have six weeks leave prior to giving birth. This leaves you with 10 weeks post birth (and they take into account delivering late or early). But, if you would like to have more time post birth, you can get a doctor’s certificate – from your gynaecologist – to say you are fit and healthy and able to work longer. Be aware if you do get this letter, you MUST give it to your social security office immediately, otherwise they will dispute your “extra” time off post natal. Also when considering this remember, by the end of the third trimester you will more than likely want some time to rest, the baby could come early, and if there is such a thing as a “rest bank” now is the time to make mammoth deposits as post birth the withdrawal rate is phenomenal!

Now relax, enjoy and prepare to close the covers on one story in preparation to commence another – of epic proportions.

Bonne chance!

Please note this is purely a subjective account of this situation in France

The A-WA-KEN, South African Faction logo

Carol, Sky and XiaXiahn of AWAKEN South African Faction

GL: Why “A-WA-KEN”?

XiaXiahn: A-WA-KEN is derived from the word Awaken. We chose the name in representation of very many things beginning with the simple act of ‘waking’. Waking from our dreams, waking up to our selves. Waking up to the moment and the inevitable awakening of new and shared experiences.

We are awake and open to the art of possibility within each day…

GL: What sort of activities are you offering?

XiaXiahn: A-WA-KEN is an in-depth South African experience of artistic expression incorporating dance, music and art. We also host various fun-filled English activities available under our A-WA-KEN Papillon umbrella. We are open Mondays to Saturdays 07h30–18h00. For the summer holidays we will be hosting exciting English craft workshops for children throughout the month of August and we re-open officially as of the 12th of September 2011.

Currently our general sessions for children are filled with fairy tales, artistic crafts and creative movement. We incorporate natural elements into our arts and crafts activities whilst adhering to the principle of Anglais en s’amusant. Our program is designed to be flexible and these lessons are adapted to suit the relevant age-groups of the children in question. We also offer Soutien Scolaire, family playcare and babysitting services.

Our adult members explore the dynamics of language through conversation and creative writing. We host ‘Survival English’ meetings for travellers and English conversation sessions.

We offer natural, organic meals and snacks on request as well as an opportunity to sample authentic South African foods one evening a month at our A-WA-KEN dinner.

 

Handcrafted books created at A-WA-KEN

GL: How can people find out more information and/or get involved?

XiaXiahn: For more information please contact us directly by telephone or via e-mail as we prefer a personal approach. Our contact details are as follows:

Meylan

Please contact Carol (landline: 04 76 59 31 95; mobile: 06 12 65 64 14)

Grenoble (12 bis Quai Mounier, 2ème étage, St Laurent, 38000, Grenoble)

Please contact XiaXiahn (pronunciation similar to Josiane) and Sky (landline: 04 76 03 12 74; mobile: 06 38 48 70 84)

awaken@orange.fr

skype me ° waken.awaken

Our website is under construction and will be ‘live’ on the 15th August 2011. Our ‘A-WA-KEN Online Store’ will offer a unique opportunity to order personalized items directly from our website as well as handcrafted items. Keep an eye out for our Facebook group. Follow us on twitter and subscribe to our newsletter.

GL: What are A-Wa-Ken’s plans for the future?

XiaXiahn: In light of our Ubuntu culture we are in the process of expanding our enterprise into a multicultural centre where English and the Arts come together to create a platform for creativity and diversity, expanding individuality in a space which caters for children and adults alike. We hope to inspire a ‘community-based’ youth project for teenagers focused on ‘Ubuntu in action. We are currently operating from a small and lively venue in Grenoble in addition to a small space in Meylan while we explore our options for an independent location.

We will be incorporating the following new and exciting avenues for creative exploration into our program in the near future: Social dancing – our group or individual classes will become a vehicle for practicing the art of English conversation whilst learning to dance. Gumboot fusion – incorporating an eclectic mix of tribal, urban and contemporary movements accompanied by drumming will offer us an insider view of South African culture at its best.

We will at long last be launching ‘eYe’ – a unique form of transcendental movement experienced through ambient and digital sound which takes us on a journey deep within ourselves. We look forward to crafting and making use of African musical instruments to explore rhythm and sound. We will host the A-WA-KEN Festival once a year for our members to showcase their talents.

We can’t wait to welcome you into our South African home …

The BAM shelves

Patricia Andreoli-Jones of the Bibliothèque Anglophone de Meylan (BAM) tells Grenoble Life of events planned for the library’s fifth birthday.

The English Library of Meylan is celebrating it’s fifth anniversary this month. Tea, cold drinks and British goodies will be served in the smallest library of the region with the vastest collection of English-language books: science-fiction, novels, albums, biographies, magazines for all ages.

Created in July 2006, the library opened with 300 books in October of the same year. Many donations came in from English-speaking families going back home, or French families wanting more shelf space. Today the library has almost 3000 books. Thanks to members’ subscriptions (10 euros per family per year) and a steady flow of donations the collection is renewed on a regular basis. The library’s website has an online catalogue, a home page with opening hours, special events and links to Grenoble Life, Grenoble URL and the Bookworm Café, a recipe section (including Golden Rice Crispies, the library’s specialty), press articles and a photo gallery showing some of the best moments of the library’s life including a didgeridoo concert and an Irish player of Scottish bagpipes.

Looking forward to seeing you with family and friends! BAM is open til 13 July, opens again on 22 August.

Bibliothèque Anglophone de Meylan
dans l’école Aries
8 Ch. des Clos, Inovallée
http://ba-meylan.fr

Monday: 10.30 – 12.30
Wednesday: 10.00 – 11.00
Thursday: 11.45 – 14.00

The façade of Cité Scolaire Internationale, host to the American School of Grenoble

ASG headmistress Carol Margaret Bitner

The ASG logo

Photo: Vickie Allen

Vickie Allen tries rock climbing the ‘iron way’ (aka via ferrata) at Alpe d’Huez. She took her camera too. Don’t look down!

I rarely hear my own heart beating in my ears. But I hear it now; loudly. My legs tremble, my hands burn. I try not to look down to the river running 100m below me but I can hear it gushing over rocks between heartbeats. A bird flies past my head and above me the clouds are gathering. I ask myself – not for the first time – why I’m doing this.

And then my breath kicks-in. And I realise that via ferrata isn’t just great for the body, it’s a mental sport too, requiring focus, strength and a kind, supportive, inner voice. A great lesson for life as well as for the rock face …

Via ferrata – for those who aren’t familiar with the term – can be directly translated from Italian to mean ‘iron way’. For those who are familiar, the term conjures up images of iron rungs bolted into the mountainside and a cord of metal that criss-crosses the cliff face. This is your iron way, your route up the mountain.

Photo: Vickie Allen

There are lots of via ferrata in the Oisans region and for our first attempt for the year we thought we’d keep it simple, opting for the découverte route in Alpe d’Huez, from the base of the Sarenne gorge. découverte simply means discovery, and differs from sportif in that the routes tend to be more like a scramble up the rocks via narrow paths, rather than comprising of long sections of rungs (which is what you’ll find on the sportif routes). At the bottom of the Sarenne gorge you have the option of either type of route and they cross mid-way, allowing you to try both disciplines in one hit.

Did I mention that the routes take you hundreds of metres off the ground? This means safety equipment is essential. You’ll need a climbing harness, a specialised via ferrata attachment (which comprises of two spring-lock carabiners on a short length of rope and a third which acts as a braking device), a helmet, comfortable clothing and trainers or other suitable outdoor shoes. You’ll also need a lot of guts, especially if you’re afraid of heights.

Photo: Vickie Allen

Via ferrata is a great way to combat fear and conquer your adrenaline. I’ve done a few via ferrata now, and a bit of climbing, but the first of the season is always terrifying. It took me a good hour regain confidence, not just in the safety equipment but also in my body. Trusting my hands not to simply let go of the rung at an inopportune moment took a lot of energy. And this is why my hands are burning now … I literally gripped and hauled my way up the rock face. Not great technique but for the first ascent of the season I’m just glad I made it. And this is why I persevere with the sport: it’s literally the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done.

When you’re on the face you’re part of a team and the team are there to support you and talk you through, when necessary. But essentially you’re on your own, in your head. And the way to talk to yourself when you’re coaxing yourself up and up and up is maybe the way we should coax ourselves through life. “Come on Vixie, [that's what I call myself in my head!] you can do this. Here’s another crossover. One carabiner to the next section of line. Done. The second. Done. Nice work. Check you’re secure. Now, get your right foot onto that rung and lean for the hand-hold. Secure? Edge the left foot along the rock and squeeze it onto the rung. Good. Secure. You’re doing well. You can do this. Breathe. Remember to breathe”.

Photo: Vickie Allen

The other beauty of the sport is that you can only deal with one section at a time and quite often you can’t see what’s ahead or below, so your only option is to focus on the job in hand. The strange peace that ascends as you move up section by section, staying solidly in the present is another lesson I think we can apply to our own lives. What’s the point in worrying about what’s to come or what’s behind us? Let’s just deal with what’s in front of us right now.

And then, before you know it, all your coaxing and inching up the rock face brings you to the top … that triumphant final haul over the last edge and you’re done. Hopefully with a big smile on your face as you realise what you’ve achieved and how – with all that focussing on the present moment – you’ve left all your other worries at the bottom of the route.

Photo: Vickie Allen

How to reach the Alpe d’Huez via ferrata: the route starts at the bottom of the Sarenne gorge, just upstream of the chairlifts. You can walk into the gorge via the footpath from Huez or down from Alpe d’Huez on the steep path that descends next to the second car park on the way to the Col de Sarenne. You’ll finish just below the same car park and the walk back into Alpe d’Huez takes about 30 minutes. We completed the route in around 90 minutes, but the speed at which you go depends on your fitness, experience and whether you want to stop to take photos to scare your friends and family…

Photo: Vickie Allen

For more  on Alpe d’Huez in the summer and climbing in the Oisans region, go to Destination Oisans: Photos, films and thoughts on the reality of life in the mountains.

GGSB Management Consulting students

Students in the MSc Management Consulting program at Grenoble Graduate School of Business need your help. Khom Klanman explains.

The conference Mobile Devices: Is your social life in hand? which was held on February 24, 2011 at Grenoble Graduate School of Business received impressive feedback from stakeholders. The audience gained from the conference practical takeaways on leveraging the use of mobile social networks while being aware of potential impacts and concerns arising from this new technological and social trend. The students of the MSc in Management Consulting program were happy to inform society about the challenges posed by this development.

Presently, the students are working on a new challenging consulting project for a global enterprise in the mining industry. We have divided ourselves into four teams responsible for different functions – namely, client facing, engineering, marketing, and business development.

The client-facing and engineering teams are currently working on that project while the business development team has been working on strengthening and maintaining relationships with potential clients and consulting partners for further collaboration on consulting projects.

Along with the consulting project and business development initiative, the marketing team has been carrying out market research on the consulting industry in Grenoble area. The objective of this exercise is to gain insights into of the local consulting industry and to see where the goals of consultancies and client companies can meet.

To this end, we have formulated a survey, which will serve as a data source for our research. We hope to receive as many replies as possible from the online survey in order to gain a comprehensive view on the consulting business in the Grenoble area.

We would appreciate it if you could help us in this research. To do so, please complete the following online survey, which should take no more than five minutes of your time.

Consulting firms, please Click here

Client companies, please Click here

We will be glad to share the report with you this summer. If you are interested please contact Khom Klanman (Khom.klanman@grenoble-em.com)

The many flags of the Open House logo

English-speaking voyager Maureen Walsh describes the soft landing in Grenoble provided by the local expat association Open House.

Our sojourn from the United States this past July and our settlement in Grenoble for my husband’s one year sabbatical at the Grenoble Ecole de Management was sometimes fraught with both expected and unanticipated difficulties and inconveniences. Getting our OFII (l’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration) stamps, cellphone, TV and Internet service, bank accounts and apartment in our adopted city took time, energy and patience. Now that that is behind us, it struck me how those trials were often softened by all the hospitable people who put out the “welcome mat” for us here in Grenoble.

Before we had left Raleigh, North Carolina for Grenoble, I had done a cursory Internet search for possible groups we might join to integrate ourselves more easily into French culture. At that time I came across Grenoble Life’s March 2010 piece, Anglophone Grenoble, a rough guide, and its reference to Open House Grenoble, a group that has been around helping English-speaking voyagers just like us since 1987. I tucked the link into my computer favorites list thinking that it just might be what we were looking for once we had finally touched down in Grenoble.

After settling into Grenoble, I bee-lined to the Open House Grenoble website to find some particulars about upcoming events we might be able to enjoy. I saw that they held a weekly Tuesday morning informal get-together called Coffee Chat at a local café where the conversational language was English. It sounded like the perfect introduction to the organization without having to broadcast our beginning French language ineptitude. We met at that time in the centre ville at Pain et Cie, but have since moved to Take-Away at La Caserne de Bonne. We were delighted to find a mixture of amicable French and English speaking people who seemed eager to befriend us.

Soon after, those of us who were regulars at Coffee Chat questioned why a similar morning meet-up couldn’t be created for speaking solely in French. (Yikes!) Café Français was born this January and slowly built a following on Thursday mornings coming together at our old stomping grounds, Pain et Cie café. This became a great opportunity to share a coffee, stumble over our French words and have native French speakers patiently help us with the practical issues we have negotiating life here in Grenoble.

When my husband, Steven, and I formally became card-carrying OHG members in September, we discovered the French-English Exchange group that meets two Friday mornings a month at CLEF (Association des Centres de loisirs Enfance et Famille). This group converses on impromptu topics and plays often humorous games aimed at language learning, dividing the time together between French and English conversations.

Getting our feet wet with the language groups led us to check out other OHG interest groups. No one organization can be all things to all people, but Steve and I have found that we can dabble in many groups that appeal to us. We have sometimes found our way on Thursday evenings to local Grenoble pubs including Le Family Pub for Chill-Out Evenings, stopping to share a drink and some conversation. And for me, the former English major, the Open House Book Group has filled a special spot. Our circle of between 10-12 bookworms gathers at the café, Le 5, at the Musée de Grenoble once a month where lively, stimulating and intelligent conversation ensues about the books we read in English. In the same location, once a month the Creative Writers Alliance meets to support both fledgling and veteran writers alike allowing them to share their trials and triumphs.

There are some OHG groups that we won’t be joining. Since we don’t have young children here in Grenoble, we don’t fit into the Baby & Toddler Activities group nor will we be participating in the holiday-related activities suited for older children. But as we still have some time ahead of our departure and with Spring on the horizon, we hope to join some of the outdoor groups that participate in Mountain & Outdoors activities and Cycling. Of interest, as well, is the fitness-oriented Wellness group that comes together at CLEF on Tuesday evenings with Hula dancing or occasional workshops featuring activities such as yoga, shiatsu, reflexology or aromatherapy.

Last, but definitely not least, OHG also provides opportunities to delve into the gustatory world. We already drink BEAUCOUP de café et de thé during language exchanges, but there is also an active Wine Tasting group which explores regional wines in members’ homes. With the planned monthly Lunch Out opportunities we can sample different Grenoble restaurants in the company of other adventuresome souls. Recently, we lunched at the Hôtel Lesdiguières, the lycée for hotel and restaurant management here in Grenoble, but with the myriad of restaurants in Grenoble we have an eclectic list from which to choose. Open House has also in past years hosted a Christmas Apéro and a Summer Picnic where members and their families have gathered together for good food and fun times in the spirit of the seasons.

Our life in Grenoble has undoubtedly been filled with one-of-a-kind opportunities and welcoming people. We have been fortunate to be able to partake of the Open House Grenoble activities, and we’re going to truly miss all these good friends when we must return to the U.S. So the next time a friend from home asks me how I spend my time here, I’ll just have to point them to this article or to our blog, A Year in Grenoble, and let them envy all the convivial opportunities we’re going to very reluctantly leave behind with our Open House friends.

The London Pub. Photo: Guillaume Cattiaux

In the second part of her blog Footprints in Grenoble, American student Aleigha Page talks about French mealtime etiquette and her favourite establishments for desserts, coffee and people-watching.

Studying abroad in Grenoble is by far one of the best life choices I have made. I have been able to learn about and live in a new city that prior to the study abroad process, I had never heard of. In my opinion, Grenoble is the perfect size city for study abroad. It is large enough to offer variety, but yet it is small enough so that it is not overwhelming. The centre ville (city center) is where most of the stores, restaurants, cafés, pubs, and nightlife are. I live in the centre ville and therefore I am within walking distance of everything I need: places to shop, cafés, and nightlife.

In French fashion, Grenoble is replete with cafés, offering in and out door sitting. One of my personal goals for studying abroad was to establish a regular café. I shopped around for my café during my early weeks, and I found it. Pain & Cie is my favorite café in Grenoble because it is large and spacious, offering a warm atmosphere. The interior has hardwood floors, stone walls, and an unfinished wooden ceiling. The tables are made of thick wood with metal chairs. The coffee they serve here is organic, and on every table is a glass filled with white and brown sugar cubes. I generally order an espresso but, once a week, I treat myself to a café au lait, which is coffee and steamed milk, and it is served in a bowl here. I throw in a couple of sugar cubes and stir them around the foam. The desserts at Pain & Cie are delicious. I do not know the exact name of my favorite dessert here, but it is a multiple layered chocolate creation. Three of the layers are cake, two are a chocolate mousse, a few thin layers of caramel, and then, the bottom layer is a textured, nutty tasting layer. I have made speculations that it is either a praline mousse, or a hazelnut spread. For chocolate lovers, this cake is a must on your to-do list. Not a big chocolate fan? No worries, because they have cheese cake that is absolutely divine, but I am sure any of their wide selections are equally delicious.

As for nightlife, Grenoble is full of places to find a pint of beer or a glass of wine. One of my favorite pubs is The Subway Bar, which attracts a hip, sporty crowd of French students. The drinks are very inexpensive here – I can get a pint for three euros, and they have a “cocktail of the week” for two euros, which are excellent choices for a student budget. London Pub is another I enjoy because of their atmosphere. It is London-themed, and covered in British memorabilia – Beatles posters, pictures of Big Ben, football tournaments, etc. There is always a huge crowd here, which makes for a fun night. My final favorite place is Tord Bayeaux, literally ‘twisted guts’ or ‘rotgut’. This bar has a wall filled with little barrels of strange wine flavors. My favorite flavor is a green, apple kiwi wine, which tastes like hard candy. They also play fun music here, such as the Lion King song “Hakuna Ma Tata”.

I enjoy promenading around the centre ville, without any particular direction, weaving in and out of stores to see what they have on display. On warm, sunny days, there are always lots of people sitting outside cafés, on benches, or walking around. I think it is very interesting to pick a park bench and people watch. I am continuously fascinated to see what people are wearing, how they wear it, and their interaction with others. One observation I have made is that I see fewer people walking around with a cell phone attached to their ear than I do in the US. Granted, I do see the phones out quite a bit, but not as frequently compared to where I live. There is always a vendor nearby to purchase a gauffre (waffle) or crêpe to munch on while people-watching.

Long before settling on Grenoble for my study abroad destination, I always knew that I wanted to live with a host family, because they can offer aspects of French culture far better than I could pick up living on my own. Dinner time is when I spend the most time with my host parents, and it usually lasts an hour. I have been able to learn French mealtime etiquette, and several traditional dishes. Etiquette is very important to the French – even at the campus cafeteria and an elementary school I visited they use all three eating utensils and eat in three courses. The French typically have wine or water with their dinners, and bread on the side. The hostess serves the wine, and will ask if you would like more. Never ask, and never, ever, touch the wine bottle. For bread, leave it to the side of the plate on the table, and tear off small bits. Do not eat it whole. A salad is served as the first course, or the entrée. Le plat principal (main dish) generally consists of a meat and vegetable, or quiche with my host family. Dessert can range from a cup of pudding to fruit to a homemade dish. I love that the French treat their food so respectfully and make meal time feel special.

My time here in Grenoble is quickly winding down, but the experience has been amazing. I have made friends that I am sure will last a lifetime because there are no other people who will ever 100% understand my stories about studying here other than those with whom I made these memories. Aside from learning French and about France, I have learned quite a bit about myself. Being outside of the bubble that is my life, I have had the time to reflect on what I want out of my life, who matters in my life, and what I want to accomplish. Studying abroad has not only opened my eyes to a new culture, but also to a new aspect of me.

Read part one of Footprints in Grenoble

Wing It Productions logo

Grenoble Life talks to Hélène Perrin-Gouron, Vicki Bernard and Katie Coakley – aka Wing It Productions – a new English theatre group for secondary school pupils in and around Grenoble.

Grenoble Life: Who is Wing It Productions?

Hélène Perrin-Gouron: Three passionate women who have always loved and done some theater; one French having lived in the US, one English, and one Irish.

Vicki Bernard: Sounds like the beginning of a joke…

Katie Coakley: Oh thanks, ladies. I’m the Irish one (‘wanting desperately’ to change the subject)! We’re part of the abc anglais association, which aims at helping people ‘learn, improve or maintain their level of English in the most natural manner’. Our goal is to open this theatre activity to the entire secondary school community in and around Grenoble.

Hélène: That is… for this first year. I have the High School population (15-18/19) in mind too, the college students, etc.

GL: What is the philosophy of the group?

Vicki: Having worked so often with young people, we have really been able to see how much the theatre can bring them in terms of self-confidence, team-work (relying on others), their creativity and imagination.

Katie: The fact that we use English purely as a vehicle means that they improve their English without even realising it.

Hélène: I would add to this that one of the most positive things to come out of the work with young ones is the bonding that they experience. The show becomes bigger than every single one of them, and us.

Katie: Very much so! It also eradicates the age differences.

GL: What ideas do you have for your first productions?

Katie: Although we’re going to keep that secret, we can say that we’re going down the comedy road.

Vicki: Our lips are sealed.

GL: What have some of the major challenges been getting started and how have you overcome them?

Katie: To start with, we had a real dilemma. Do we create our own association or do we become part of an existing one?

Vicki: We were very fortunate to come across abc anglais (through Helen McEwan who worked on the Cité Scolaire Internationale pantomime with us.) They took us under their wing.

After that, our main challenge was sorting out a lot of things all at the same time: reading umpteen scripts to find a story, organizing and advertizing the auditions…

Katie: And making sure that all this gets done behind the scenes without a hitch. That in itself is quite a challenge!

Hélène: I, personally, was happy to have help with all that work that no one ever imagines exits. How to overcome the constant challenges? With ‘your head in the stars and your feet on the ground’ (i.e. persistence, patience, with zest, and more persistence, more patience, etc.)

GL: What kind of people are you looking for and how can they audition?

Katie: Anyone of any nationality between 11 and 15 with a good knowledge of English and an excess of enthusiasm.

Hélène: You can be French, British, American, or whatever; but you must know that the whole activity is going to be run entirely in English.

Vicki: In other words, you can come from Mars …

Hélène: Or Venus …

Vicki: As long as you can get along in English and are prepared to improve through taking part.

Hélène: If you wish to join us for this thrilling adventure, go to www.abcanglais.org, section ‘collège’. All the information you need is there!

GL: Tell us a bit about your theatrical backgrounds

Hélène: I started doing theater at university, in the US. Then I was asked to keep going with the county community theater. I thoroughly enjoyed working eight months solid on the ‘Man of La Mancha’ musical. I was there six days a week and I can’t think of any moment not being sparkling! Then these past few years, I was general director of the C.S.I. panto where every single cast has been my favorite!

‘Out of hours’, I’m a scriptwriter and have worked on long features such as Confessions of a Dangerous Mind, or Pearl Harbor; and if you’re dying for more names, you can go to my LinkedIn profile.

Vicki:  I was involved in acting in a semi-professional theatre in England. I did drama all through school, acting and directing as house and drama captain. I acted during my university days too and put on a couple of plays in the English Department at U.3 in Grenoble. Finally, I was part of the panto direction team at the C.S.I. for two years.

Katie: I’ve done theatre with small children in Ireland. Here in Grenoble, I’ve worked on the C.S.I. panto for two years.

GL: What is the potential of Grenoble in particular for this type of theatre group in terms of audiences and participants?

Hélène, Vicki, and Katie: (with one voice) Massive!

GL: Thanks ladies. Watch this space for updates and news about Wing It Productions.

Les timbres!

US newcomer Maureen Walsh reports on obtaining long-stay and student visas through the Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration for a year in Grenoble.

Arriving as newcomers to Grenoble from a small town in North Carolina in July 2010, my husband, Steve, and I were trying to carefully follow the letter of the French law regarding completing the steps necessary for our stay in France. He had recently been accepted into the AQ Bridge Program at the Grenoble Ecole de Management. This was an opportunity to spend a sabbatical year away from his position as the NC State University Director of the Engineering Entrepreneurs Program and explore new possibilities in a foreign country. So it would have surprised many of our friends to know that in our initial 2 ½ months stay in France, we hadn’t actually perfected all of the legalities. This was not malice aforethought, mind you, but only due to the timing of our arrival. Not until the middle of September 2010 did we get things settled! That was when our little yellow OFII (Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration) cards were pasted inside our American passports. We breathed a sigh of relief. We were now “bona fide”!

The process began in North Carolina. Since we hoped to stay in Grenoble for a full year, Steve applied for a student visa, and I needed a long-term stay visa in order to live in France. That involved a LOT of paperwork – there was the NC State Bureau of Investigation report, an FBI report, fingerprinting, certifications from our bank as to our financial worth, proof of health insurance, proof of purchase of airline tickets, certified birth certificates, marriage certificate, proof of acceptance into a French school, statements from me regarding the reason I was applying for entry into France along with a promise that I would not work while in France, and proof of a commitment to a residence in France (rental contract). It seemed like the list would never end.

We needed three copies of each item for both of our folders and this all had to be translated into French. In addition, there was the Long Stay Visa application form (Demande Pour Un Visa De Long Séjour) and the OFII form (Visa de Long Sejour-Demande D’Attestation OFII) with the top part filled out. A lot of trees sacrificed their lives for our trip to, and our stay in, France.

Once we had assembled all that, we made an appointment to go to our regional French Consulate in Atlanta, Georgia – a “mere” seven hour drive away. We made this appointment on-line and traveled there on an overnight trip in April. The meeting was not what we expected. I thought we would be invited into a cozy room to meet with a consulate representative to present our paperwork and be interviewed – perhaps accompanied by a glass of French wine, too? On the contrary, we arrived and soon discovered that the official Long Stay Visa application form posted on the website of the French Consulate in Atlanta that we had printed and completed, in “impeccable French” I might add, had just been completely changed the previous week. The new questions didn’t match the previous form. A sense of impending doom followed by a mild feeling of panic began to spread within the confines of my head. We stood at a narrow counter and worked to fill out the new form on the fly sans dictionnaire!

When the interview process took place, we were standing at another counter with the consulate employee sitting behind glass with a tiny slot through which we passed our massive paper pile in 8 to 10 pages stages. Time stood still. The employee would ask us questions (in French) and forget to turn on the microphone. We had to continually ask the him to repeat his questions and to turn on the sound – I thought I was living the drive-up window scene in the movie, Wayne’s World. He swiftly shuffled our papers, picked up the phone a few times to call France and kept looking at Steve suspiciously because he was applying for a Student Visa. This was the first line of defense those in America encounter in their quest for a visa to France! (Does the word perspiration mean anything to you?)

We left the office exhausted and made the return drive home. And waited … Our passports with our visas pasted in were returned to us about a month later in the prepaid FedEx envelopes that we had provided. Another hurdle passed. We were on our way to France!

Once we entered France via Switzerland, the next step for us was to find a permanent residence. We had arranged to stay in an extended-stay apartment for our first month in Grenoble, but we would need a more permanent address for the duration of our stay. In addition, we needed fixed and mobile phone numbers to put on the OFII form. Would it ever end? After the arduous work to acquire those, we sent off the paperwork by registered mail on August 4th. Timing for that was not, shall we say, optimum. We soon learned that most of France is not working in August because ils sont en vacances! Finally, we received letters telling us that our OFII forms had been received. We still had to wait to be contacted for our appointments to complete the process. A week and a half later, a letter arrived outlining what we needed to do for our appointments that were scheduled for the 16th of September for Steve and the 17th for me.

We were nearing the finish line! We needed to have a un examen radiographique, un photo tête nue, un examen clinique général and beaucoup d’argent. For the money part, we visited the Préfecture for taxe perçue à l’occasion de la délivrance du premier titre de séjour. This meant we had to buy des timbres á la caisse de préfecture in advance to cover the fee for the OFII validation. The timbres look like postage stamps and are similar to the stamps paid for when you complete a purchase on a house. For Steve that amounted to 55€ ($71.75) and for me, 340€ ($443.57) (exchange rate: 17/09/2010). We understand that in the U.S. the amount can be closer to $1,000.00 per person, so we think we got a bargain.

As a student, Steve had to first go to the Centre de Santé which is located near the train station in Grenoble and have a basic physical. Then, two days later, he needed to board tram C and head off to the Domain Université Centre de Santé to get a chest x-ray at one of those mobile units set up in a parking lot. A week later he returned to the first Centre de Santé to pick up his certified medical certificate. Finally, he was instructed to go to the OFII office with all his paperwork to complete the process. He was told they take a limited number of applicants each day. Since they don’t make specific appointments, show up early and try to get in the door – at 6’2″ and 90 kgs he was ready for action. He arrived an hour before the opening and was the first one in line. He presented all his pieces to the puzzle, and they pasted a card in the passport and covered it with a film cover. One down, one to go.

My requirements were a little different. As I am not a student, I was instructed to report to the OFII office at 13h 30 for my x-ray, and my medical exam would be at 14 h. I was pleased. It seemed that I had an appointment and would escape the running around that Steve had had; it would be “one-stop shopping”. Wrong. I arrived at 13h25 (the bureau is closed from 12h until 13h30 for lunch) and found a long line of people waiting for the opening. I joined the line, and I glanced at the paper the person in front of me held. It looked just like mine. Exactly! We ALL had the SAME appointment time.

The overworked employee at the desk dealt with people speaking many different languages. Some were anxious (like me), and some became belligerent when they were told their dossier was incomplete and that they would have to return with some other required paperwork. After sitting in the too-small waiting room for a half-hour, I was called back for the exams. The x-ray tech showed me to a dressing room and told me to disrobe to the waist. I looked around for the usual jacket I always get to put on when I have any upper body pictures taken. Nothing. Leave your modesty at the door. That done, I moved on to the nurse. She weighed me, stuck me for, as she said, “le sucre” (diabetes test), took my blood pressure, and then we proceeded to the height and eye charts.

If you know the French alphabet pronunciation, you remember that vowels and some consonants are pronounced differently from their English look-a likes. (i is “e”, e is “ai”, g is “jay”, j is “gee.”) We had to remind ourselves of that when responding. As a side story, we have an Australian friend who told us of her experience at OFII. She didn’t know any French when she arrived, and when she read the eye chart, she answered using the English (Australian) pronunciation of the letters. The medical people all thought that she was legally blind!

Getting our OFII stamps has given us the freedom we need to fully enjoy our experience here in Europe. Until we got that, if we had left France, we were told, we would not have been allowed to re-enter through the borders without returning to the U.S. and reapplying for a new visa. With our OFII stamps and our American passports, we can pursue our wanderlust. It didn’t take us long to pull out the map and start eyeing all the possibilities that became open to us with just that “little yellow card.”

To see our further adventures, please visit our blog: walshesingrenoble.wordpress.com

examen radiographique: xray
un photo tête nue: photo of a head without a covering
un examen clinique général: medical exam
le taxe perçue à l’occasion de la délivrance du premier titre de séjour: the charge collected at the issue of the first residence permit
le caisse de prefecture: prefecture cashier
centre de santé: health center

A detail from The Crucible poster

Camille Bromley reviews the Upstage production of Arthur Miller’s The Crucible, running at Ste-Marie-d’en-Bas until Saturday March 19.

In an ambitious choice, this year’s Upstage production is The Crucible, Arthur Miller’s dramatization of the Salem Witch Trials and allegory of 1950s McCarthyism. Upstage, Grenoble’s finest English-language theater group, and made up of high school students from the Cité Internationale, never fails to put its best foot forward and this year I was quite looking forward to seeing how the young actors would treat such a sober and violent subject.

But I was wrong in thinking that the Upstage group would rise up to the mature themes presented in the play; in fact, I found that the themes treated in the play spoke very well to adolescence, and as such the teenage actors did a wonderful job of bringing this out to the audience. After all, the accused-cum-accusers that fuel the drama are the young girls found to be “dancing” in the woods—girls much the same age as the actors playing them. And a large part of the horror felt by the puritan townspeople of Salem and subsequent finger-pointing comes from a disbelief that these “children,” who are actually young women, could be capable of lying, vengeance, deception, and sexual acts. Not to mention the fuss raised in our day and age over peer pressure — from Act I we see the influence of the group working on each individual girl, until one by one they crack from the pressure and join the ranks of the accusers, condemning others to save their own skin.

The Crucible’s cast includes a healthy representation of female actors, but the male actors held their own, occupying no less challenging, if less terrifying, roles. John Proctor, conflicted and confounded by the women in his life, is the victim in Act IV of a nail-baiting interrogation of circuitous logic administered by the very severe Deputy Governor Danforth, in which he realizes hopelessly that to be accused is already a condemnation, and a dishonest confession may be better than a righteous death.

Passionate performances (screams, shrieks, tears, thundering accusations, uncontrollable trembling and general hysteria) were given by most of the cast, notably the character of Mary at the climax of the play, and there were several standout character performances, especially Giles Corey complete with cane and fabulous accent. And Upstage didn’t forget their signature interjections of humor (“We saw our gym teacher with the devil!”), as difficult as it is to inject humor into such a play.

The simplicity of the set design and the subtle lighting cast a barren, chilled atmosphere as background to the action, and left the attention on the performances. As always in the Theater Ste-Marie-d’en-Bas, the intimacy of the room and conviviality of the bar made for a pleasant evening.

Kudos to directors Dave Simpson, Julie Valade, Claude Deladoeuille, and Therese Zanone for another impressive performance by Upstage. But I have to admit, after witnessing such a “world gone mad,” I sure was glad leaving the theater, feeling secure in being a little less mad than them.

Daniel Mathieu at Cavavin Grenoble St-Martin D’Heres

Grenoble Life talks to entrepreneur-sommelier Daniel Mathieu of Cavavin Grenoble St-Martin d’Hères about wine, setting up his business and tasting sessions in English.

Grenoble Life: Tell us about Cavavin Grenoble St-Martin D’Heres. When did you open and what can we find inside?

Daniel Mathieu: I opened the shop five months ago, in September. My goal was to build a special place, nice-looking (with wood, color, lights), where you can discover the world of wine in a friendly atmosphere. I have music all day, jazz every evening, and organize a free tasting every Friday and Saturday; my so-called “happy apéro”.

I offer 1,500 types of wine, Champagne, whisky: I have a lot of affordable vins de copains, starting at €3, and I am a specialist of Italian and organic wines (BIO). Most mportantly, I also organize wine tasting courses every Thursday evening, when we take the time to taste wines, talk about each winery, and try wine and food pairing.

GL: Tell us about your wine-tasting courses for English speakers. What made you decide to organize them?

Daniel: There are lots of foreign people who come to Grenoble for a few weeks/months and are not comfortable enough in French to attend a French speaking course. They are students, scientists, or often the wife or husband of somebody coming to Grenoble. I invite them to discover an important part of the French way of life: wine, and wine and food pairing!  By the way, the next “Wine tasting basics” evening is on Thursday March 10.

I also organize private wine tasting evenings in English, for companies that want to have a fun and “French” event for their international seminars, sales meetings, supplier congresses etc.

GL: Where/how did you learn the wine trade?

Daniel: I had been a wine enthusiast for years, and decided to go further and learn the job of sommelier, which I did in 2010, graduating from the wine university of Suze la Rousse, near Orange.

GL: You have changed your profession. Why?

Daniel: My first motivation was to become independent and create my own business, locally. Then I felt I would learn more, and have more fun by doing something completely different – I had been working in the car, IT and consumer electronics for 25 years – in an area I really enjoyed. That’s what drove my decision.

GL: Tell us about wine from this region – any good? Give us some recommendations.

Daniel: I really like wines from Vallée du Rhone and Savoie. Some of my preferred ones?  Montez for St Joseph/Condrieu/Côte Rôtie, Dupasquier for Roussette/Mondeuse; or Quenard for Chignin Bergeron from Savoie.

I discovered local-local wines (I mean wines from Grésivaudan) only a few months ago in a wine tasting event at the Millesime festival in Grenoble. I was particularly impressed – and decided to sell this wine in my shop – by the Mas du Bruchet in Meylan: it’s a fruity, tasty white wine, made from a local grape called Verdesse and vinified like a Bourgogne: perfect match with a white meat dish or a strong cheese. THE Grenoble wine to try!

GL: What do you think of New World wines: Californian, Australian etc? How do they compare to French wines in your opinion? (I’m British, so I’m neutral here!)

Daniel: Even though we have great wines in France – maybe some of the best ones – I have always been curious to discover wines from other countries when I was travelling a lot. There are some really nice wines from California, Australia, South Africa and Chile: they are often tastier than French wines; definitely worth trying. Talking about foreign wines, I am a real fan of Italian wines: they have unique local grapes, a perfect climate and some great wine-makers.

GL: What are some useful contacts and addresses for people wishing to set up a new business in Grenoble?

Daniel: I found the Chambre de Commerce is a very good source of contacts and training. Then your personal and professional network is key get additional contacts and free advice … and they are often your very important first customers!

See you soon for a wine tasting!
www.cavavin-grenoble-smh.fr

Breakfast at Le Valombré

Vickie Allen swaps the pistes of Alpe D’Huez for a weekend getaway at the chambre d’hôtes ‘Le Valombré’ in the Chartreuse. 

Squelching through the mud to avoid the frozen snow that last fell at Christmas, I was glad we hadn’t bothered to pack our ski stuff.  We watched over-dressed school children judder down the slushy nursery slope served by a single, antique drag-lift, their mittens dangling on cords from their wrists, googles perched on their helmets, zips undone. At our backs a southerly wind, disturbingly warm, swept through the trees and cooled as it hit the height of the Col de Porte, but not enough to reassure us that the promised snowfall was on its way, not at this height anyway. 

Situated at 1,326m there was still snow on the ground but as we descended into Chartreuse we drove back in time to find fallen leaves, bare trees and grassy clearings on the edge of the dense forest. It was autumn once again. 

Bare trees and clouds above Grenoble

We chose Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse for a quick mid-winter getaway as it’s so close to Grenoble (just 30-40 minutes by car) and we’d been enchanted by the forest when we visited for the day in the summer. 

As Brits who work in tourism, we’ve always been fascinated by the concept of a chambre d’hôtes. Having worked in a number of chalets and hotels, as well as running Mountain Experience, we weren’t sure if the idea of staying in someone’s house and being a guest at their table was tempting or not.  So we decided to check-in and see … 

Despite our English reserve our host Jean-Pierre was warm and accommodating from the moment we arrived at his home, Le Valombré. A barn conversion, the building is stunning with the self-contained guest quarters, that sleep up to ten people, on the first floor. The Boyfriend had chosen the Jade Room when booking from the photos of each colour-themed room on the website. We found it to be just as it looked online; light and comfortable with a huge bed and comfy armchair. Perfect for relaxation and privacy, but how would we find eating with a stranger? 

The Jade Room

Jean-Pierre shared the starter with us, but refrained from the main course and dessert. Leaving the table every now and then to refill the water and check the oven, his presence was comfortable and leisurely. He grasped his way through our faltering French, phrasing his questions to fill our awkward English silences with the utmost grace and ease. He chatted happily about his previous life in Paris, the conversion of the building and local visitor attractions. His recommendation to visit the church of St-Hugues-de-Chartruese to experience the modern art piqued our interest, and after a tasty four-course meal (with the obligatory local cheese-board) we made our way to bed.

We had agreed on a late breakfast at 9.30am and awoke to find the table laden with homemade preserves and yogurt. The mint and melon jam reminded me of sweet Moroccan tea and was a surprisingly refreshing accompaniment to warm croissants. The Boyfriend’s sweet tooth preferred Jean-Pierre’s strawberry and pineapple jam, while we both salivated over the oven-fresh brioche cake nestling under the lid of its red oven dish.  

Whistling his way through the morning routine of breakfast and cleaning, Jean-Pierre directed us to the church, whose art he described as incroyable.  

I have to admit a soft-spot for churches, especially those decorated with religious iconography. In France you’ll find many Catholic churches dripping in gold and ancient carvings so the modern strength of the abstract art at  St-Hugues took us by surprise. Red and gold dominates the wall hangings, contrasted by the blue stained glass windows of the transept. The artist Arcabas merges familiar biblical symbolism and stories with dark, passionate interpretations. The result is emotional and interactive; you can’t help but slip into the world of demons and angels. 

Inside St-Hugues

Slipping into Arcabas' world

The cooler colours of St-Hugues' transept

We wandered the rural village of St-Hughes and drove to the more commercial, resort of St-Pierre-de-Chartreuse. With the ski lifts closed, no snow and ESF instructors wandering the town in their uniform, it was easy to forget that this was mid-February. Most of the hotels, restaurants and shops were closed. Tourists were very thin on the ground and I wouldn’t have been surprised to see the odd tumbleweed blowing through the deserted grey carparks.  

The view from St-Pierre-de-Chartreuse

October conditions in mid-February...

Without the softening effect of snow, the scenery was raw, with mountains jutting out above the trees and narrow roads lining the winding base of the deep gorge. We spent the afternoon admiring the skeletal trees and vertical cliff faces, contrasted with gently sloping hills and forest clearings dotted with traditional houses and converted barns. As the rain started we returned to Le Valombré, anticipating another lovely meal, gentle conversation and a cosy sofa. 

For our first experience of a chambre d’hôtes, we could have asked nothing more of  Le Valombré. As the only guests, we were eased gently into sharing our meals and felt much more comfortable and relaxed than if we had stayed at a hotel. It was the perfect combination of privacy and relaxation, with the added benefit of our personal chef and knowledgeable host. And the lack of snow actually gave the break a slower pace, with no need to zoom around the slopes.  

So as we wandered into the forest at Trois Sommets, picking our way along the edge of the frozen path, I was happy to leave the kids to their ancient drag-lift and slush; breathing in the warm wind, pine needles and mulch … an autumn break in mid-February and a Valentine’s Day to remember. 

Vickie Allen shares her photos, films and thoughts on the reality of life in the mountains at Destination Oisans.

'Raquette nocturne' with Association France Etats-Unis

April Buchanan of Association France Etats-Uni talks to Grenoble Life about getting together with the “internationally-minded” for picnics, museum visits and full-moon raquette nocturne.

Grenoble Life: What is Association France Etats-Unis?

April Buchanan: Well, France-Etats Unis is many things to many people. It’s actually a national association, with almost 30 chapters in all different regions and cities all over France. It’s a social organization that is open to anyone who is interested in either American culture, or anyone interested in promoting friendship and understanding between France and the United States.

You don’t necessarily have to be American or French, and you don’t even have to speak English! We have members of all nationalities and ages, students and professionals. A lot of members are either American ex-pats and their families, or French people who have either lived or vacationed in the States and loved it! It’s also a great social setting for international couples or people new to France who are looking for a place to feel less like a stranger in a strange land.

GL: Tell us about the history of the Grenoble chapter – why here?

April: A lot of people are surprised to learn that the first France Etats-Unis was first started in Paris just after World War II, under the name ‘France USA’ back in September 1945. Ten years later the name was changed to the current one, and the association began to grow across the country.

The Grenoble chapter has a unique story, in that it began in the early 1950s, but it kind of lapsed in the 80s and 90s. It was in 2005 that Pierre Hermant relaunched the association in Grenoble, and it has been growing ever since. In 2010 we had 65 official members, but it seems like more since we often have a lot of friends and visitors who participate in the fun as well!

Grenoble is the perfect place to have a really dynamic and vibrant association since it is such an international city! With so many multi-national companies bringing employees from abroad, the University of Grenoble having exchange programs with many American universities, and the Grenoble Graduate School of Business with their many international masters study programs, there are a huge number of Americans and other ‘internationally-minded’ people living here either permanently or temporarily. France Etats-Unis is the perfect platform for these people to meet casually and feel welcome in a positive and friendly environment.

GL: The moto of the association is “For a better mutual acquaintance and understanding.” Can you elaborate on that?

April: I think one of the best quotes I’ve read about the association sums it up nicely. The second elected president of the association, André Maurois said in 1955, “… there is nothing more important for these two countries than to maintain a total and trusting friendship between them.” He goes on to say that the historical factual links between France and the United States, specifically each country helping the other in gaining its independence, is simply not enough to maintain this friendship … that it is a living reality, founded on mutual respect, constant collaboration, and a common culture of supporting peace and freedom.

While remaining independent and completely apolitical, the role of France Etats-Unis is to support this idea, and we can do that through cultural and social events, national holiday celebrations, and fun social exchanges between people of many nationalities and backgrounds, including but not limited to French and American.

GL: What sort of events do you organise?

April: We have quite a few events all year long, including the major national celebrations of both countries, as well as activities to explore the heritage and nature around the Isére region, so there’s always something to look forward to. And we always have a regular monthly “Hot Spot,” which is a casual get together held on the first Wednesday evening of each month. For the past year or so we’ve been having it upstairs at Café de la Table Ronde at 6:30, and anyone is welcome to come and hang out with us for an hour or two.

But this is in addition to our bigger planned events, which have become quite popular! With everything from Thanksgiving Dinner to nature hikes, from the traditional French Galette des Rois to museum visits and the Fourth of July picnic, there is always quite a variety of things happening in every season, and we are also open to new ideas for anything fun and interesting!

GL: What is your role and how you did you get involved?

April: Well, this is my first year being on the board of the association, and I’m really inspired and excited to help make the association grow and to spread the word to those who may not know about it!

I had lived in Grenoble for about five years when I became friends with two other American women, Jesse Bernstein and Emily Huschen, who were members and also on the board of FEU. They immediately convinced me to come to a Hot Spot on a Wednesday night, and there I met lots of interesting people, including other Americans living here that I had never met before, Franco-American couples, former French ex-pats who had lived and worked in the States, and even a retired French couple who spend half of the year in Florida! It was refreshing and reassuring to be among people who appreciated American culture and who wanted to share stories about their own experiences between the two countries.

GL: Tell us a bit about your background

April: I’m American, originally from Valparaiso, Indiana. After finishing my studies at Purdue University and working for some time in Chicago and in Austin, Texas, I came to Grenoble on holiday in 2003 to visit a friend who was working here. It was then that I realized I wanted to live abroad! Without speaking a word of French, I moved to Grenoble permanently in 2004, and it has been an incredible journey of self-discovery and world education ever since! I am currently teaching English in companies around Grenoble.

GL: Asides from events, what other advantages come from being a member of the association?

April: The events we organize in the association are always a lot of fun, but they are really a gateway to friendships and connections that can last a lifetime — I even know one person who met his wife at the Toulouse chapter of France Etats-Unis over 20 years ago! But aside from events, we have strong relationships with other associations in the area, such as Open House (an English-speaking association in Grenoble) and the American Club of Lyon to name two, but also organizations like the American Chamber of Commerce in Lyon, and the various ‘Sister City’ programs, which partner French cities and American cities to promote travel and exchange between the two.

We also have strong support from the American Consulate in Lyon, and the Mairie of Grenoble. All of these outlets, as well as the other chapters of France Etats-Unis, provide a vast network of people and places for everyone involved. This can lead to all kinds of partnerships and opportunities, which all stem from the commonly held interest in promoting multi-cultural friendship and understanding.

GL: What’s next on the calendar?

April: Our next big event is the full moon snowshoeing hike, or raquette nocturne! For those who have never gone snowshoeing, it is a great alternative to skiing to enjoy the natural beauty of the mountains here. And doing this at night under a full moon that lights up the white snow all around is a truly magical and unforgettable experience! And of course, no Alpine adventure would be complete without a traditional French Montagnard meal in a warm chalet-style restaurant to finish off the evening. It is one of our most popular annual events that we look forward to all year long!

Grenoble depuis "la montée de Chalemont". Photo: FrenchHope

In the first part of her blog Footprints in Grenoble, American student Aleigha Page shares her first impressions of studying abroad in the Capital of the Alps. 

My name is Aleigha; I am an American student studying here in Grenoble for the spring semester. I began my study-abroad research fall of my freshman year, and I was immediately drawn to the catalogue featuring Grenoble. The mountains, the globes which take one up to the Bastille, and pictures of wild flowers growing on the mountainside all convinced me that Grenoble was the city for me.

Off the beaten path

I like that it is a little off the beaten path of European study abroad destinations, but that certainly does not mean life in Grenoble is boring! Grenoble offers a happy medium of big city and country nearby. The centre-ville is fabulous, and offers every store one could ever imagine! There are restaurants, cafés, brasseries, pubs, bakeries, and so much more. 

Just because Grenoble is in the mountains, does not mean it is removed from culture. But I also love the fact that the mountains are in easy reach of the city. I have hiked up the Bastille twice, and both times offered the best view of the city. The Bastille is a very old fortress built into the side of the mountain, which served as a prison and has now been converted into a hiking trail. When the weather warms up a tad, I intend to make many more hiking expeditions. 

Arrival

My first day in Grenoble began after a three hour long train ride from Paris, after three days of sightseeing the City of Lights. Needless to say, I was exhausted by the time I made it to Grenoble. I walked into the Grenoble train station, trying to wrap my head around the fact that this new city was about to become home for the next four months. I gingerly stood with the other students in my group as we observed the group of host families.

When my name was called, my host mother and I shyly made our way toward each other. I was thrilled to finally meet the person whose home I would be staying in! But all in approximately two seconds, it occurred to me that she knew absolutely nothing about me, other than the obvious statistics: American female student here to study French. And I knew little about her other than she was an artist who worked from home, enjoyed cooking, and lived in Grenoble.

I was not exactly sure how to kick off our conversation for various reasons: a) I was tired and still getting my body acclimated to the new time zone; b) I was trying to be sensitive to French etiquette and customs, and I was not sure how to converse without accidently saying or asking something offensive; c) Even in my native land, I am very shy the first little bit I meet someone. Combine all three of those, and I was at a loss for words. However, we made our way to the train, and we made small talk as she pointed out important landmarks, and told me our tram stop.

Old town

On the tram, I marveled at the buildings we whizzed by. Grenoble is an old town, and the buildings have that old European, stucco style walls with orange tile roofs. The buildings are different colors – some of them pastel orange and yellow, others brown or shades of beige.  

Of all things in life, I know that I will never forget my first impression of my host home. It is a charming house built onto the side of another building. We go through an apartment hallway, complete with a spiral staircase, to an outdoor entrance. Go through the door, and enter into a charming courtyard which leads into the house. The house is old, and certainly has the charm and character of an old home. I am a sap for old buildings and especially homes; I could spend days marveling at the old homes, whether at home or in France. 

The next couple of days were spent getting unpacked and settling into my new home. My first full day in Grenoble, we were taken on a tour of the city. In the Place Notre Dame, there is a café which is especially for philosophers; however anyone is welcome, along with at least four other cafes. In another town square, there is a café which is the second oldest café in all of France, the oldest being in Paris! There really are cafés on every street, and just about every corner in France. I always thought that maybe the café was an overdone French cliché, much like berets, but no. I can safely conclude that there will never be a shortage of cafés in la France.

Goals

I have officially been in Grenoble for two weeks, and I honestly find something new or interesting every time I leave home. There are so many winding streets filled with shops and little restaurants throughout city. Prior to my study abroad departure, I made a list of goals, and one of those goals is to see something new every day. I can easily put a check next to that box. I recently discovered the most adorable salon de thé I could ever imagine –chandelier hanging, mismatched antique furniture which had been reupholstered in various fabrics of pretty prints, tablecloths, and white tables. I did not have the chance to stop by, but having tea in one of the salon de thés is certainly on my to do list. 

My introduction to Grenoble could not have been better. I cannot wait to explore more and get to know the city, not only through the eyes of a visitor, but as a member of this city. I want to have a relationship with Grenoble, not only to be a passerby. I know that Grenoble will leave a significant footprint on my heart and in my life, and I certainly intend on leaving a few of my own footprints for Grenoble.

Photo: Vickie Allen

Vickie Allen takes a break from the slopes of Alpe d’Huez and heads off walking in Bourg d’Oisans.

It may not have snowed since 11.01.11, but you’d never guess by looking at the pistes …

Alpe d’Huez has over 900 snow cannons, more than any other resort in France. And really it’s just as well, as so many of the pistes here are south-facing. So the fact that it’s not snowed for nearly a month doesn’t matter too much; the cannons are blasting water into the air each night, creating piles of new snow that’s being spread around the resort to keep the pistes topped-up. This technique is all well and good when the weather’s cold enough for the cannons, but if it starts warming-up at night we could be in trouble…

For the moment though, Alpe d’Huez boasts some of the best snow in France. Only the lowest, sunniest runs are closed (which includes the Sarenne) but new arrivals do get quite a shock when their first view of the resort is this:

Photo: Vickie Allen

The skiing may be good but I’m just not feeling it right now. With mid-season rapidly approaching I needed to get out of resort, so was far more enthusiastic than usual when The Boyfriend suggested a trip to the supermarket and a walk in Bourg d’Oisans.

Bourg is a hive of cycling activity in the summer months, but it’s a bit of a ghost town during the winter. Its location at the base of the steep-sided Oisans valley means it spends a chunk of the winter months either in the shadow of the mountains or under a blanket of cloud. Today however, it was sunny and toasty, with temperatures hitting 25ºC in the sun.

After a rather dull and chilly whiz round Casino we drove out to the fields that surround the town. There’s a lot of housing development going on in Bourg, but once you get past the Happy Valley projects you find fallow fields bisected by manmade mini canals.

Photo: Vickie Allen

Despite the warm weather, spring is yet to arrive in Bourg but there are a few signs that it’s not far away.

The trees remain bare but as the snows melt and the streams start to run once again, green life is appearing in the water. Weeds and water plants strongly rooted, reflect the sun’s warmth as they cling on against the flow that comes from the mountains. We heard the distant rumble of rock falls as the temperature change and melting snow loosens cracks on the mountainside.

Photo: Vickie Allen

Rustles in the dry leaves covering the mulch betrayed the field mice and squirrels out foraging, and we spotted a heron working its powerful way along one tree-lined canals, looking for prey. Squelching through the mud and remnants of frozen snow, protected by the shade of the trees, we made our way to the bank of the largest canal, Bourg’s protection from the heavy meltwater that gushes down into the valley at the end of each winter.

Photo: Vickie Allen

The level of the river is low at the moment and may stay that way unless we get a significant snowfall before the end of the season.

The forecasts remain hesitant to predict anything other than sun, so maybe we now need to accept that it simply won’t snow this much this winter: Mother Nature’s way of rebalancing after last year’s epic snowfall. Or maybe she’s playing her cards close to her chest and – as the older generation of local mountain folk believe – she’s going to test the mettle of the half-term tourists with a huge dump just in time for the first weekend of the holidays …

We’ll just have to wait and see.

Photo: Vickie Allen

Click on the links for more information about Bourg d’Oisans and riding this winter in Alpe d’Huez.

Destination Oisans: Photos, films and thoughts on the reality of life in the mountains.

Alliance Grenoble-Oxford

Grenoble Life talks to David Bailey of Alliance Grenoble-Oxford about the association’s history and events ahead of a debate in English it is hosting on campus, February 16.

Grenoble Life: What is Alliance Grenoble-Oxford?

David Bailey: AGO is the association that takes care of the twinning between Grenoble and Oxford in the UK.

GL: When was it founded and why?

David: Grenoble and Oxford were unofficially twinned in 1988 but the official ‘Friendship Agreement’ was actually signed in Oxford on 27 April 1989 by Alain Carignon, then mayor of Grenoble, and Queenie Whorley, mayor of Oxford. After a couple of short-lived attempts at forming a twinning committee, the AGO was founded in March 1993.

GL: What kinds of events do you organise?

David: There are two aspects to the AGO’s activity. The first is to foster exchanges between the two cities in all spheres (professional, educational, economic, artistic, sporting, social, linguistic, etc.) and to promote personal contacts between their residents. This we do with the support of Grenoble city council’s international relations department.

The second aspect of our activity is to promote Oxford and British culture in general here in Grenoble through an annual programme of events. These include play and poetry readings in English, lectures on a variety of topics, social events and outings, car rallies, debates and an annual Christmas Carols evening.

GL: What other kinds of services do you provide?

David: In the context of the actual twinning, we facilitate contacts between associations and individuals in liaison with the Oxford-Grenoble Association in Oxford, and we organise a trip to Oxford every other year, usually in the late spring. In years when we do not go to Oxford, we host a group from over there here in Grenoble.

We have in the past offered conversation classes and would be willing to do so if there is any demand. We publish a newsletter several times a year.

GL: Tell us a little about the organisers

David: Both the AGO and OGA in Oxford are entirely self-supporting, non-profit organisations run by volunteers. We have a mix of French and British people from a variety of backgrounds and professions on the committee. Our meetings are held once a month, in French.

GL: What events are coming up?

David: Our next event is a debate the traditional Oxford University style, which we are organising in conjunction with several departments of the University of Grenoble. This is the second of its kind and we hope it will become a regular event. We then have a talk in March by Thora van Male from the Institut d’Etudes Politiques on her latest book Liaisons généreuses. And over Easter we shall be welcoming the East Oxford Community Choir, which is twinned with Grenoble’s “Interlude” choir. They will be giving two performances of Mendelssohn’s oratorio “Saint Paul” with an orchestra consisting of musicians from both cities.

GL: How can people get more information and/or get involved?

David: We are always on the lookout for new members, and especially for people to help with the twinning. As our website is temporarily on hold, they should contact me (David Bailey : 04 76 40 31 34 or davidbailey@sfr.fr). Our brochure is usually available at the Maison de l’International, Parvis des Droits de l’Homme, Jardin de Ville, 1 rue Hector Berlioz, 38000 Grenoble.

Employment Opportunities. Photo: The Cleveland Kid

Rebecca Skillman talks to Nathalie Reynaud, career transitions consultant and guest speaker for the Working Women’s Network of Grenoble on February 17th.

Rebecca Skillman: What is “career sustainability”?

Nathalie Reynaud: For me it’s about keeping ourselves employable over a whole career – and not relying on one employer to look after us. Everyone’s different, of course, and it depends on our personality, constraints and environment. But we can all develop a sense of responsibility. So, rather than being the victim in a hire-and-fire culture, we are in control of our destiny, working when and how we want to.

Rebecca: Is career sustainability a recent, crisis-related trend?

Nathalie: Not for me! Right from when I left school I chose broad-based studies which allowed me to have a lot of opportunities. I had a scientific background in research – image processing – and enjoyed the work in that field. But I realized the job didn’t take account of what I needed in terms of people contact. I was behind a computer too much and it began to have an effect on my health. So I said ok, time to stop. Having a dual nationality I decided to go to Canada, to experience a different cultural perspective. I found that I really enjoyed tutoring and training – seeing the sparkle in people’s eyes when they understand how to move forward and get what they want.

From Canada I went to Mexico for two years, then returned to France as I wanted to work again in a francophone country. From there I decided to go for an MBA in change management, using previous skills and at the same time moving forward. But what really interests me is seeing where people are at, where they want to go, what their needs are and how to get there. Initially, I found a role in information systems consulting. But I felt I was losing sight of my target – people – so I changed tack and took a role in HR consulting in India.

Rebecca: You’ve worked in a huge range of contexts and countries. What’s the lesson from that?

That if you want something enough, you can have it. In each country I found the job I wanted, in my chosen environment, the way I wanted it. Even in India – where I was an ex-pat wife and everyone told me I’d never find a job, I was the only wife who had a job!

Rebecca: What would you say to someone who is having difficulty finding their own route through life?

Nathalie: You need to start from yourself. Think about what you want, what your needs and priorities are, and your skills – especially the transferable ones. Rather than sending CVs at random and focusing on what your needs are – a job – try to be pro-active, thinking about what companies need and matching this need to what you can offer. It’s a mutual process. And the global recession makes it even more important – because it can otherwise be so easy to get into a depressed “I just need a job” state.

Rebecca: What can people expect to get from your presentation to the WWNG?

Nathalie: We will share experiences – whether it’s about being unemployed, or adapting to a changing work environment, or adapting to the shifting work pattern of a husband. In all cases I want people to leave with hope of finding what they want and a better idea of themselves: where they’re at, where they want to go and how to get there.

We will talk about our personal and professional projects, and whether we are aware of the relevant values, skills, behaviour, environment and benefits. I will give some hints about how to always develop our competencies, even if we are unemployed; and how to find/create our own job, if necessary. We’ll consider possible marketing tools, how to make sure we have the right people around us, and a strategy/action plan in place. I like the metaphor of a sportsman who has to plan … one competition after the other. Which competition are you targeting? Which will be the one that will carry glory for you? The target? In the long and short term? Planning a career is no different. We have to prepare, physically and mentally, and have the right equipment to win those competitions that life throws our way.

Nathalie Reynaud of Reynaud Consulting will be speaking to the WWNG on 17 February 2011. For more information on attending this program, contact the association at www.wwng.net.

Nathalie Reynaud

"Danse" by Daniel Champhanet at Ristretto Café

Françoise Lerond talks to artist Daniel Champhanet – currently exhibiting at the Ristretto Café in Grenoble – about painting expresso-style … with coffee. 

As a lover of innovation, I was really amazed at Daniel Champhanet’s beautiful scenes, made just by playing with coffee. I decided to talk to him to know more … 

Françoise Lerond: Daniel, could you tell us how the idea of painting with coffee came to your mind? 

Daniel Champhanet: The story starts at the meal time with friends, a coffee drop leaving a stain on the white colored paper tablecloth … What a beautiful color and great transparency! My imagination immediately started to wander around, connecting very old and somehow hidden ideas. I got it! I could catch hold of any moment with minimum material; a unique medium available anywhere in the world … The solution was obvious: Coffee! 

I fully agree with Lisa Yuskavage when she says that painting is not an aesthetic orthodoxy, and that creative freedom relies on one’s will to give things a try. 

Painting expresso, just for a short coffee break! 

Françoise: What does coffee recall for you?  

Daniel: Well, after being a medicine for a long time, it became the Devil’s drink (Qahwa), and then the first foodstuff used for the purposes of speculation. Nowadays, it is one of the most widespread drinks; but I now see it as an amazing artistic medium. It’s a simple but unique material, carrying a long and vibrant history. 

I also associate it with rich imagery, from its provenance to its roasting to the way millions of people share it every day, at breakfast, or simply at a social occasion. I could also talk about smell, recalling travels, lazing around at a coffee store or just reminiscing of childhood when I was first allowed to taste this magical beverage. I think coffee reminds each of us of something different and very personal! 

Françoise: What does it allow you to do more or better than other techniques? 

Daniel: It allows me to seize the moment of an emotion, of a face, of an object. It also gives an emotional transparency, most particularly when painting eyes. When mixing it with markers or pastels, I can obtain a fantastic intensity. 

Françoise: How do you manage to get such different nuances of colors with only one substance? 

Daniel: Everything lies in transparency, a bit like watercolor. Diluted with more or less water, you obtain various nuances. Results can also be different depending on the paper you’re using. 

Françoise: That’s really great! What an amazing result! Anything else you would like to add for Grenoble Life readers? 

Daniel: Yes, I’ve been exhibiting at the Ristretto Café  in Grenoble almost since its opening. Jocelyn Glorieux has nicely welcomed my painting in his shop, allowing a great alchemy between the location, coffee and the art. 

If you want to see the exhibition, you can visit the Ristretto Café: 23, Rue de la Poste – 38000 Grenoble. I will also be there to welcome you on Saturday, February the 5^th from 1 to 3pm. 

Françoise: Thank you Daniel. We hope to see some of our Grenoble Life readers there! If any of you would like to encourage Daniel in his work or simply know more, feel free to send him an e-mail: daniel.art.fr@gmail.com. You can also see some of his coffee artwork on Youtube.

Mobile Devices: Is your social life in hand? (detail from conference poster)

Students in the MSc Management Consulting program at Grenoble Graduate School of Business invite you to a conference they have organized on the mobile phone industry and social media. Andrea Becke explains.

February the 24th is coming closer and closer. This date might not mean a lot for most of the people here in Grenoble but for the students in the MSc Management Consulting program it means a lot. February 24th will be the date for our first conference on Mobile Devices: Is your social life in hand?

But let’s start from the beginning and introduce ourselves. We are 15 students studying MSc Management Consulting at Grenoble Graduate School of Business. What makes us special is our unique multicultural team. We are 15 students coming from 13 different countries, with an age range from 22 till 38. Working in this group is not always that simple, yet we form a great team whose diversity is what enables us to achieve great potential.

Planning such a conference is quite challenging. First we have a very limited budget; we depend on sponsors and on GGSB to support us with the logistics. Additionally since our conference will be held in English, this limits the potential audience for our event. We hope to go beyond the student and faculty body and wish to include everyone interested in this topic wishing to gain more knowledge about the mobile industry.

With our Professor Pat Brans, who is an expert in this industry, we are organizing a conference on Mobile Devices. The mobile industry is already a part of our everyday life and its influence is becoming increasingly significant. We wonder if people are really aware of what they are using? Do people actually know how far the reach of Social Media actually is? Not to mention the ever-present question arising in this context: is it safe to use? Is our privacy protected? These key issues and more will be discussed in our conference. We hope to address the big dilemmas – and answer some of questions – arising from this new trend.

We have invited experts in the area of mobile technology, social media, ethics and location based services to participate. With short, but precise presentations, those experts will bring the subject closer to everyone and give us the chance to ask specific questions during the round table discussion.

Among the speakers present: Kelly Rigotti, a Marketing and Communications Consultant and an expert in online branding and web 2.0 ergonomics. Kelly will discuss how social networks are becoming mobile social networks. Sharon Crost, an expert in reputation management and online commerce and a Marketing and Social Media Consultant, will bring us closer to a set of guidelines for handling the risks behind social interactions going mobile. Marie-Paule Odini is the Chief Technologist at Hewlett-Packard’s Communications & Media and an expert in the area of online branding, innovation and security programs. At the conference, she will talk specifically about social media used on mobile phones and the technology behind it.

We are all using mobile devices. Isn’t each of us wondering a little about just how much our social life is in our hands? Join us to find out!

The conference and round-table will take place on the 24th of February 2011 from 6 to 8 pm at Grenoble Graduate School of Business. The conference will be followed by a cocktail reception.

We are looking forward to surprising you!

Françoise Lerond (left) and Anne Dénaire-Jégard

Françoise Lerond, founder of Confluences Consulting and member of the Working Women’s Network Grenoble (WWNG), talked recently with several members about the WWNG Professional Enrichment Program (PEP).

Françoise Lerond: Why did the WWNG create this program?

Kelly Rigotti, KR Consulting: When we started the PEP in 2007, we were looking for a way to help our members receive more support and guidance – either because they were new to the WWNG and wanted to become more comfortable with American style networking, or because they wanted help in figuring out goals or objectives. We wanted to create a short but complete program that would help them get started on the path of successful networking.

Sara Freitas-Maltaverne, SFM Traduction: Five years ago, three of us – Mickey Farrance (President of the WWNG), Kelly and I – wanted to have a special welcome for our new members. We wanted them to acquire skills to get the most out of networking, help them present themselves, and share their needs with others. To be able to do that, they have to have a clear idea of what they want to do, and what their professional goals are. The PEP was born as a series of three modules:  Know Yourself, Develop Your Goals, and Present Yourself Effectively.

Françoise: Who facilitates these PEP modules?

Kelly: We have had many different talented people leading the modules, all of the WWNG members. I myself have facilitated a number of times and learned something new from each experience.

Françoise: And things change. Often, we have to reassess what we want to do, set new goals and present ourselves differently, right?

Sara: Yes, and because we change facilitators regularly, who offer different perspectives and methodologies, people can attend PEP several times and get something new each time.

I had the chance to facilitate the “present yourself effectively” module last year and it was a great experience. I was able to share my experience with my fellow WWNG members. It was also for me an opportunity to refine the training modules I offer through my company.

Véronique Rostas, Polaris Consulting:  I fully agree. When I facilitated the “know yourself” module last year, I validated new tools I was planning to use with my clients. At the same time, participants got some methodology to start their change process. PEP participants are generally very open-minded. They know they want to change something but don’t necessarily have a crystal-clear idea of who they want to be later. My purpose is to give them a structure, so that they can go from their comfort zone to a learning zone, with a safety net. That’s a first step. Françoise, you “graduated” from the PEP last year and will facilitate this year, so you can give us your feedback too.

Françoise:  Sure! That’s the beauty of networking, what you give out, you get back, and it’s win-win! I joined the WWNG last year just in time to sign up for the PEP.  It’s definitely a good start to build the future we desire, set new goals and position ourselves. I was in the process of creating Confluences Consulting, and so acquiring skills for networking and for presenting myself effectively was of great help. And since then, I’m enjoying networking “American style”!

This year I will present the “develop your goals” module, and it is really great for me to have the opportunity to give back to the network. I will share my business and project management knowledge to help participants set goals, follow up and achieve them, with a structured approach, hands-on tools and of course networking in mind.

Anne and Barbara, you participated in last year’s PEP too.  How was your experience?

Anne Denarié-Jégard, ComCBizArt:  The PEP exercises were really helpful.  We worked both individually and in small groups, and the energy you get from other like-minded people is very motivating.  PEP and the people in it really helped me structure my objectives.

Barbara Barrett, Repérages Vélo:  When I enrolled in the PEP, I was in the process of “reinventing myself.” For me the program was a transforming experience and I’m quite grateful that I’ve been able to make positive changes in my life as a result. The sessions were well planned, and the presenters were very professional and knowledgeable. I am looking forward to the 2011 PEP, and highly recommend it!

Françoise: Thank you all for sharing your experience with WWNG and the PEP program. Mickey, as President of the Working Women’s Networking Group, you may want to add something?

Mickey Farrance, WWNG President: The PEP program has built on success since its beginnings five years ago. I’m delighted that it has provided such a positive experience for so many of our members, who have become enthusiastic and productive networkers. We collectively invite other professional women who want to refine and apply their networking skills to join the WWNG, and register for the PEP – it’s free to members.  Don’t delay – the 2011 PEP will be held on Feb 5 and we need to approve new membership applications before then.  Membership application forms are available from our website at http://www.wwng.net/become-a-member.

Françoise:   Each year, WWNG members – middle managers, executives, academics, consultants or entrepreneurs – hone their professional skills through the PEP and build valuable professional relationships.  I hope to see some of our Grenoble Life readers join us there.

The Upstage 2011 cast and crew

The cast and crew of Upstage – an English theatre group comprising students at Cité Internationale Europole in Grenoble – share their experiences as rehearsals gather pace for this year’s production: Arthur Miller’s The Crucible, Ste-Marie-d’en-Bas, March 15–19. 

Francesco Amadori 

This is my first year in upstage productions and I am so pleased to be part of it. From day one, everyone was really friendly and made me feel at ease in the rehearsals. We work in a great atmosphere and I love the way the directors take their time to pay attention to every detail in the scene which we are practising. 

I play a well-to-do, hard-handed land-owner named Thomas Putnam. He is a participant in the trials of Salem and “helps” the prosecution of Giles Corey. This part, seeing as it is not one of the major ones, allows me to participate backstage during the play, as well as being on stage. 

Alba Besson 

Girls found dancing in the forest; women accused of witchcraft; a mighty judge brought to Salem to sort it all out and to hang the guilty… Sounds like a pretty good play don’t you think? 

I’m Alba and I play the part of Samuel Parris, Salem’s egocentric reverend, and so far I’m really enjoying being one of the baddies! The cast this year is really fun: we all get on great and function well as a theatre troupe. The rehearsals, with a little nudge from cakes and the soundtrack to “The Boat That Rocked”, are progressing slowly but surely and through them is emerging an exciting adaptation of Arthur Miller’s “The Crucible”. 

Hopefully, Parris’s selfish, sly and self-righteous personality won’t rub off on me too much! 

Mariam El Boudi 

Hi everybody! I’m Mariam, a 17-year-old girl who plays Mary Warren, a naïve young woman, and Rebecca Nurse, a conventional 72-year-old woman. Exploring The Crucible through Mary Warren’s character is a powerful and overwhelming experience, especially since this will be the first time I’ll be playing in Upstage. The balance stems from Rebecca Nurse’s character who is, according to me, of a much lighter tone. As Mr Simpson [David Simpson] said “the emotional levels and the acting challenges are very demanding”; therefore, we are experiencing a break away from Loot which was performed the previous year and was much more hilarious. 

I’m looking forward to be performing with the rest of the team!!! 

Jaicy Elliot 

This is my third and last year in upstage and I am proud to say that I play the splendid Elizabeth Proctor. 

This is a great change as I have been accustomed to playing men. Elizabeth is a very strong lady dealing with deep emotional conflict within her marriage as well as playing an extremely important role in the witch trial. 

The play is definitely more serious and grave than the past few upstage has put on but I’m glad to say that the very new actors’ enthusiasm and good humour still fits in what we call the upstage family and style. 

Matias Gaggiotti 

Hey, I’m Matias and in The Crucible I play Deputy-Governor Danforth, a pretentious and selfish judge, who is extremely loyal to the rules and regulations of his position. He constantly changes tone and mood and so I am sometimes pushed to act calmly and then erupt into an explosion of anger. He is a challenging character to portray but it’s also fun to immerse in this selfish, “just” character. The team this year is convivial and we all feel comfortable acting in front of each other. The production team is doing a brilliant job and the play is evolving swiftly and surely. The actors help the production team from time to time in making the tickets and other technicalities. Overall everyone is having fun and enjoying their role. Although the play is a challenge (due to its sometimes complicated language and strong themes) the team faces the challenge and overcomes the difficulties to produce a first class performance. Of course there is place for improvement but we will all be there coming March to preform the play in all its splendour. And I’m sure you’ll be there too. 

Andrew Hanlon 

Ladies and gentlemen of the court, I have come here to refer you to the facts. Every year for the past 18 years there has been an Upstage production, and every year there are a talented few, selected to perform and be part of the Upstage Experience. Ladies and gentlemen of the court, ladies and gentlemen of Salem, I am no lawyer, I am but an old farmer with 600 acres with timber in addition but I challenge you now, find one of that chosen band who will testify here, before God and the good people of Salem, find one who claims that their time could have been better spent. Find one who says that the few hours a week were not worth the feeling of success. Find one, I challenge you, find one who would not have become one of the select few, chosen to join the Upstage family. Just one. Ladies and gentlemen of the court, I rest my case. 

Anthony du Hecquet de Rauville 

Hello there assembly! I’m John Hale. Reverend John Hale that is. 

Now for today’s opening sermon, I have chosen to read to you from the Book of Upstage, Chapter The Crucible, Verse 2011. 

You see, this verse details how Anthony de Rauville joined Upstage and what he thought of it. 

Everyone knows that when in trouble, Upstage is the best reference when it comes to chilling. After all, it is THE place to be. What more could a young man such as Anthony want? He decided that he wanted to not only enjoy himself, but entertain others. After a long audition, he was finally admitted into the book of Upstage. Many a cold winter afternoon, you could see Anthony and his friends practising away, repeating line after line, movement after movement, and so, after many hours of hard work and perseverance, he was finally admitted into the Chapter of The Crucible. Do you see what an interesting life he and the other members led? Wouldn’t it be a waste not to enjoy this chapter? Well then why don’t you head on over to Théâtre Ste-Marie-d’en-Bas and enjoy a wonderful show. 

Yannick Jamey 

I’m very happy to say I’m playing in upstage for a third year. This time, I’ll perform as a minor role: Judge Hathorne, a very unfair and sadistic Salem judge, which sets quite a contrast in character for me, compared to my previous roles as a thug and wanted criminal. Hathorne is very intense, as is the actual play, which is somewhat much less of a comedy than what upstage usually produces. I think “the Crucible” is magnificent and wholly remarkable, and with an impressively big crew to bring it to Ste-Marie-d’en-Bas, I look forward to a thrilling performance. I would like to thank Mr. Simpson and other upstage members for exceptionally having given me the pleasure and opportunity to perform once again with the big family… 

Astrid Lund 

This is my first year at Upstage, but I still felt welcomed from the start, and as time goes on my confidence on stage has grown. There is a real feeling of belonging to a group, and it’s great seeing the play coming together, thanks to a wonderful cast and crew. 

I play Abigail Williams. She is 17 years old during the trials. She is manipulative and dramatic, as well as darkly charismatic, with constant shifts of mood and behaviour. At first she seems to be modest and proper, but soon it is obvious that she is far from that… 

Colleen Massé 

Upstage. Since the moment I saw the play last year, I just knew I wanted to be part of it. And I’m not disappointed. It is better than anything I had expected!!!! I’m Tituba, Parris’ crazy servant on my good days, and Mercy Lewis – as Arthur Miller said “A sly merciless girl of 18″ – on my bad days … These two small parts seem just perfect for me to get used to acting, and to how Upstage works … Why now, what more could I say? Apart from buy your tickets, and expect a night you won’t forget! Because there shall be no trickin’ with no Devil as long as Tituba’s around, and no terrible secrets with Mercy Lewis. Of course not…! 

Mairwen Perenon 

I wanted to act in Upstage since seeing The Ladykillers. I am very happy to have been included in the Upstage team this year. My characters are very challenging for me as I have never acted before. I hope I will satisfy the audience with my work on them. Ann Putnam is an old woman who is deeply affected by the loss of seven children in childbirth, whereas Francis Nurse is a landholding farmer whose wife is accused of killing Ann Putnam’s babies! 

Fred Shahani 

Hi, Fred here. This is my first year at Upstage, I arrived a little late but I felt welcomed from my first day. I am part of the production team and I mostly do the odd jobs such as fetching Mr Simpson and Julie’s coffee, scrubbing the floors and filling in for the actors who couldn’t be bothered to come… The main reason I wanted to come to Upstage is for the cheap coffee and free food but I’m also interested in how a play evolves and what happens behind the scenes. The Crucible is a great play to start off with as it has a lot of themes that are still valid today. The play is rapidly improving and I look forward to the future. 

Lewis Smith 

Hi, I’m Lewis. This year will be my second in Upstage, working with the magnificent Production team! I’m mainly responsible for any sound effects or music you hear in the theatre, as well as the Upstage website. Why did I join Upstage you might ask? Because I love working backstage in theatre productions and contributing to them, having tons of fun, and of course watching lowly actors rehearse for hours on end! (Cue evil laugh) Upstage really is great fun, whether you be an actor or techie, whether the play be a comedy or not; there will always be great people, great music, and of course free food. 

On top of all that, on top of the teamwork and stress management skills you develop, the feeling of accomplishment and success after the final production is wonderful, and is definitely worth the effort! 

As Nietzsche once said, “What is good? – Whatever augments the feeling of happiness.” Upstage is thereby the highest form of good. 

Nicholas Smith 

Hi, I’m Nick and this year I decided to join Upstage, the Europole theatre troop. So far I’m not regretting my decision at all! Since the beginning of the year I’ve been having bucket loads of fun at rehearsals. The atmosphere amongst the cast and crew is great, everyone gets on really well, and when you’ve had a stressful week and are rundown with exhaustion, Upstage is a real pick-me-up. It helps to swallow the proverbial medicine that is the French lycée system. 

I play John Proctor, an honest and faithful farmer, pillar of the community and model to all … kind of … 

Camille Tabary 

Aye love! 

I am Cheever, the prison guard. 

I am a minor character in our play The Crucible who likes to get tipsy, or even drunk … My real name is Camille Tabary and I am a terminale. A small part was perfect for me this year because it really enabled me to participate in the upstage experience and have fun, but also continue working at school. Upstage is a lot of hard work but also great fun because we all have the same goal: perform the best Crucible possible. It will be an amazing play that you won’t forget, because we put our heart into it. So come and see us. Maybe I will share with you some of my cider. 

Teo Taylor 

Lights On! 

Hi. My name’s Teo Taylor, and I play the role of, well, Teo Taylor. I have to admit, it’s a role I particularly enjoy, because it is that of a psychorigid, boring, terribly bad looking “computer genius” (that’s what a history teacher once said, so for all you know it might just be that I know how to turn on the printer.) In short, I’m the closest you’ll get to the Upstage geek – shirt in trousers, glasses, terrible taste for shoes, and never eats at midday. 

As you might have expected, I’m one of the four techies. More specifically, I’m the one who does the stuff like the poster or the lights. So, if you like the poster, knowing I’m responsible for it, I hope you’ll trust me when I say that what the actors are producing is way worth seeing, to come and see for yourself in March (I’ll be sad if you don’t…) 

See poster below for ticket and performance information 

The Crucible poster

“How much further?” A map to Café Mari

Grenoble Life’s Shonah Kennedy talks to British restaurateur Steffan Edwards about setting up Café Mari, changing dining habits and serving machin anglais to the French.

Clip clopping down to the end of the small Rue d’Alembert on a cold Friday night, on the way to our office Christmas party, I couldn’t help but think “what restaurant could possibly be here?” and more importantly, “how much further?”! But then I saw the beacon of light emanating from Café Mari, which was the pre-arranged venue for the aforementioned event. Then I entered and began to drink in the cosy place, and THEN I commenced eating! What a gastronomical delight this little place has – it just needed to be shared!

Shonah: When did you come to France/ Grenoble?

Steffan Edwards: I arrived in France in 2003 just in time for the heat wave in Aix-en-Provence. I stayed there for almost two years. When my ex-girlfriend fell pregnant for the second time we decided that it would be wiser to be closer to her family (she was born here in Grenoble), so more than five years ago we arrived in Grenoble.

Shonah: What is your history in the food industry?

Steffan: My first job was when I was 14 washing up in a pub on Sundays when they had a carvery. The chef was the stereotypically fat and jovial who loved to cook almost as much as he liked to eat! From him I learnt the most important thing about cooking – you have to love to cook or you will end up hating your job and as a result your food will suffer. While I was still at school I had many summer jobs in London hotels and also an internship at the Hilton in New Orleans. At the age of 18 I knew that I was going to cook professionally.

After dropping out of university – because of foolishly taking a management course rather than a cooking course – I found my first full time job as a commis in a restaurant called Le Petit Max which, while I was there, won the Eros award from the London Evening Standard as one of the top 10 restaurants in London.

After leaving there I chose to change jobs frequently – sometimes as much as four times a year – to try to learn as much as possible about all aspects of cooking. I did stints in high class restaurants – 3 star Michelin – and also in local family restaurants. Each chosen because I thought I would benefit from them. When I thought I could learn more elsewhere I left and started looking for the next challenge.

After six years of working like this I decided to settle down and stick at a job, so I started working for Mark Hix at Le Caprice in central London. I stayed in the company for nearly three years working my way up to sous chef and also working in the two other restaurants in the group – The Ivy and J. Sheekies.

After leaving Le Caprice I was approached by a friend to help him in his new bakery – Flour Power City – to make the pastries, help with the baking and also to sell the produce at the now thriving Borough Market. After one and a half years of baking I was keen to get back into a kitchen, so I worked at the Drapers Arms – a gastro pub in Islington which was voted gastro pub of the year by the Evening Standard in 2003. That was when I arrived in France and to Antoine Cote Cours in Aix-en-Provence.

Leaving Aix in 2005 I took some time off to take care of my new born son and at the same time I started looking for a restaurant to buy.  After being let down two times for the sale of two different restaurants I went back to full time work at Le Flagrant Delice in Grenoble. While working there I heard about the sale of a small café which would become Café Mari where I have now been for more than two years!

Shonah: Since you have been working here have you noticed any changes in trends/ palates/ peoples habits in relation to eating out?

Steffan: Some of the restaurants I have worked in have really suffered because of the recession, however in the café I have not really noticed the change, mainly because my prices are reasonable and people still like to enjoy a good lunch.

There has, however been a change in people’s palates with people starting to think more about their health – looking for the healthy option which is reflected in the menus we now see.

The consumption of alcohol has also dramatically reduced in the seven years since I have lived here. Gone are the days of two hour lunches with lots of wine to help wash down the food!

Shonah: Did you find it difficult to break into the “exclusive” French café market as a foreigner?

Steffan: It has always been a bit difficult to be accepted as a chef in France. There is still the stereotype that the British cannot cook and to convince the French otherwise is not easy. A typical example of this was when I put sticky toffee pudding on the menu. I had to bargain with my clients just for them to try it, but now when the same customers come to the café the first thing they say is: is the “machin anglais” still on the menu? It is my best selling dessert. (note from Shonah – and well worth the try – AMAZING dessert!)

Shonah: What is a “typical” meal at café Mari?

Steffan: There is no typical meal here. The plat du jour changes every day with dishes coming from France, Italy, the UK, India, China and even Thailand. There is a small menu – three starters, three mains and four desserts – which changes seasonally and has its foundations in classic bistro cooking with a slightly modern edge.

Shonah: Why did you open café Mari?

Steffan: I had always wanted to run my own restaurant even from my first time in a kitchen but I wanted something small to start with, which I could run by myself and have relatively small charges. Café Mari fitted the bill perfectly.

Shonah: How can people find you/ contact you?

Steffan: I am at 116 rue d’Alembert, 38000 Grenoble. Telephone: 04.76.96.29.55. Opening hours: Monday to Friday 7.30am to 3.00pm.

I also have a facebook page for the café – Steff Cafemari. I will start updating this more frequently.

Shonah: Can people organise private parties to hold at the café?

Steffan: I cater private parties for 10 to 24 people. Normally I will meet with the host of the party beforehand and we will discuss the style of food they would like, the budget etc. Then I send off some propositions and they choose the menu that they want, at the price they want.

Shonah: Any future plans for the café or expansion?

For the moment I have no concrete plans, but I would love to introduce the French to the idea of gastro pubs. I think the French already like pubs, but I have yet to see a pub serving food here and I am convinced it would work. Watch this space!

photo: Vickie Allen

Vickie Allen reports on the snow – or lack of it – at Alpe d’Huez, and gives her tips for winter sports enthusiasts on how to predict the weather.

Sitting in our t-shirts looking across the green valley to the bare mountains behind, yesterday felt like April. In fact, last April the weather was far worse than it is now, with lots of snow falling late in the season.

Today as I look out of the window at the blue skies and the green trees it feels like Spring is already here. However, The Boyfriend has a different theory: winter hasn’t yet arrived.

photo: Vickie Allen

And he may be right. We’ve had a few big dumps of snow but nothing major and nothing really prolonged, which is what’s needed to provide a good strong base of snow. So maybe winter isn’t really here yet, maybe it’s on it’s way…

Our mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable and erratic. Last week we experienced all four seasons and after a week of sunshine the sort of temperatures we usually experience in May, the forecast is now predicting a week of clouds and snow.

photo: Vickie Allen

Just a few regular dustings really, around 10cm for the week, because the irony is that it’s going to be too cold to snow next week. The freeze level is due to drop from 3550m to 1850m today. By Thursday morning it will reach 0m and jiggle around up to 400m until Sunday.

photo: Vickie Allen

However, it’s not worth worrying about. Life here is lived determined by the weather and you have to be flexible to adapt to the whim of Mother Nature. This is one of the may reasons I love it, it stops me planning too far ahead! Forecasting here is supremely difficult and my interest in it has become purely theoretical. I’ve been closely watching the forecast for the past two years and love to watch the number but rarely do I base my life on them. They merely provide an idea of what may come to pass, but for life, I rely on these three methods for predicting the weather:

1: look to the south for storm clouds as this is where our weather originates
2: stick your head out of the window to test the temperatures and smell the air
3: layer-up no matter what the weather

photo: Vickie Allen

If you’re heading out on holiday soon then pack for all weathers, as you should no matter what time of year you visit the mountains. And if your trip is booked for later in the season then know that the weather might not be what you’re expecting, but you’ll have a great time anyway.

photo: Vickie Allen

PS: if you liked today’s photos, check out my Flickr page and entries into the Alpe Photo Contest.

Click on the link for more information about riding this winter in Alpe d’Huez or use the comments bow below to ask questions, I’d love to hear what you think!

Destination Oisans: Photos, films and thoughts on the reality of life in the mountains.

“5 min TOPS”, Marianne’s podcasts available on iTunes

Marianne Raynaud of Grenoble-based Quality Time ESL gives us an update on her new English as a foreign language resources for the teachers and students. 

I am currently producing three series of podcasts intended to help learners improve their speaking skills: “QualityTime-ESL Podcasts”, “Your English” and “5-Minute TOPs”. These podcasts are oral exercises that can be downloaded free of charge on the iTunes platform. My newest series “TOPs” (“Training with Oral Practice”) are based on quotes and well-known song lyrics. I am happy to report that these “5-Minute TOPs” have been cited on the iTunes platform in France in the category “nouveautés” under the heading “enseignement” and in the US in the category “What’s Hot” under “language courses”. All three series are currently ranked among the top one hundred foreign language audio podcasts in numerous countries. 

What is a podcast? 

I became interested in podcasts four years ago when I was looking for a way to brush up on my Spanish. I was amazed at all the wonderful resources available on the iTunes platform in a vast range of subjects. For readers unfamiliar with the term let me explain that the word “podcast” comes from pod, the acronym of “portable on demand”, and cast from “broadcast”. By downloading radio or television podcasts onto your computer and then transferring them to an iPod or a MP3 player, you can listen to or watch programs wherever you are and whenever you wish. You can be on the bus, in a train or standing in line at the supermarket and be listening to the “CBS Nightly News”, “2000 ans d’histoire” on France Inter or the language course “Notes in Spanish”, as was my case when I bought my first iPod. Today I am so enthusiastic about podcasts as an effective learning tool that I am conducting workshops on how to use podcasts in English language teaching. The positive emails I get from satisfied listeners who are progressing thanks to my podcasts encourage me to produce one or two new episodes every week. 

Go on a podcast spree 

If you are interested in this new way of accessing information just download the iTunes software, which is free, and then simply “browse” all the vast resources. You can scroll down from “podcasts” in the black toolbar on the top of the homepage and select the category you wish to sample. Or you can go to “advanced search” and define the type of podcast you are searching for. There are ranking lists in the right-hand column of many pages. Whenever you see “display all” (afficher tous), click on the button to get the complete list. Finally, at the very bottom of any page in small print you can find “explore” and get an alphabetical list of everything on iTunes including the podcasts. There is also a link “change country” in a column next to “explore” that lets see what music, films, and podcasts people are downloading in other countries. One important point: on iTunes music, films, TV series or programs and audiobooks require payment, whereas all podcasts can be downloaded free of charge. That is also the case in the section called iTunes U with audio and video recordings by well-known professors from different universities, institutes and academies across the world. 

The podcast system allows you to choose from a great diversity 

Personally, I recommend TED Talks for inspiring presentations by people who are really making a difference in the world and all the BBC programs. I subscribe to about ten series at a time including “CBS Nightly News” and “News in Slow Spanish”, which is excellent. I have just discovered “The History of Philosophy” with Peter Adamson from King’s College in London. Teachers often ask me which are the best podcasts for students. The fact is there are so many available that it is very difficult to choose “the best” ones. The advantage of the podcast system is that individuals can select the programs that suit them personally—what appeals to one person may not interest someone else. And a certain voice may be appealing to some and not to others. Using podcasts in teaching means students can choose what they wish to listen to and learn, which opens up totally new horizons. 

Sampling and subscribing 

When browsing you will see icons next to the titles and a button to subscribe (s’abonner). When you press on it, you will get the latest podcast of the series on your computer plus a list of all the other ones available in the series. You can then press on “get” to download certain episodes or on “get all” to have them all downloaded onto your computer. If you have subscribed, every time there is a new episode in the series it will be sent to you automatically. You can also just click on the title of the podcast or the icon and see the list of all the episodes. By clicking on any episode you can listen to it (or watch it) directly without downloading it—to get an idea of the content and the type of program. 

The theme of my own podcasts 

My own podcasts follow three different themes: “QualityTime-ESL Podcasts” for grammar training, “Your English” for vocabulary building and “5-Minute TOPs” for fun exercises with song lyrics and quotes. I use only English, as these exercises are intended for learners all over world. I would appreciate it if readers could recommend these podcasts to English teachers or to French people wishing to improve their speaking skills in English. They cost nothing—only the scripts require a minimal fee, but most listeners use only the audio files. Incidentally, when you stop listening to a series, the podcasts are no longer downloaded onto your computer, and you can delete them with a click of your mouse. 

To subscribe just type “Marianne Raynaud” 

To subscribe to my podcasts just type my name into the iTunes search box in the upper right-hand corner and then click on: “QualityTime-ESL Podcasts”, “Your English” and “5-Minute TOPs”. The more subscribers I get, the more motivated I feel to continue producing these podcasts. My goal is simply to get more people, young and old, up to a basic operational level in English. I have always believed you don’t need to know a great deal to be able to converse in a foreign language. What you do need is motivation and training like when practicing a sport. And we all know that communicating with people from different countries is a real joy. 

A few words about my book on DVD 

Of course, I do have a second less altruistic goal. I hope teachers will go to my website, read about QualityTime-ESL: The Digital Resource Book and purchase this book on a DVD with over 1,500 modifiable files in MSWord, PDF, PPT and audio formats (€29). I have written about my experiences as a teacher/coordinator at Grenoble-INP (Grenoble Institute of Technology) for 24 years, and I have included all the materials I developed for the different courses. As the files are customizable, teachers can easily adapt all the exercises and activities to their specific needs. I have also made a fifty-minute film “Scenes from an ESL Classroom” where you can see students working and performing using the materials from the book. This year I will continue conducting workshops for TESOL France and naturally I plan to go on listening to podcasts and producing more of my own.

A still from Garage, 2007, directed by Lenny Abrahamson

Camille Bromley reports back from the Celtic Connection’s third annual Irish film event and tells us a bit more about activities planned by the association over the year.

At the end of November Grenoble’s Irish cultural association, Celtic Connection, held a film event at Cinema les Melies, showing two Irish films: the animated children’s film Brendan and the Secret of the Kells, and Garage, winner of the 2008 Irish Film awards as well as the CICAE Art and Essai Cinema Prize at the 2007 Cannes Film Festival.  

Asked about the choice of the film Garage, Celtic Connection explained, “We have shown films for three years now and wished to show the ‘maturity’ of Irish cinema with a provoking film about a social theme that was not too evident in the euphoria of the “Celtic tiger” era, and we seem to have been a bit prophetic in our choice.”

The film shows a lonely garage attendant’s tentative first steps towards friendship and human connection with a 15-year-old boy.  The story plays between comic and tragic, with a nuanced and delicate perfomance by Patt Short. Perhaps the most wonderful aspect of seeing the film on the big screen was the beautiful Irish country landscapes. The pace of the film being slow (like life in a rural town), it allows plenty of time to appreciate gorgeous shots of Irish countryside, which can only be described in the most typical way as green, lush, and foggy. The film was shot in Cloghan, County Offaly; Woodford, County Galway; and Rathcabbin, County Tipperary over a six week period in late summer 2006

This was the third annual Irish film event for Celtic Connection.  Previously they had shown Small Engine Repair with the Cinemathéque de Grenoble, and Once.  At every event Celtic Connection offers an apéritif beforehand and “a few drinks” afterwards in the Irish bars of Grenoble.

Don’t want to wait until November 2011 to see another Irish film? 

The Celtic Connection gives its recommendations:

For Adults: 

Breakfast on Pluto, 2006, Neil Jordan
The Wind that shakes the Barley, 2006, Ken Loach
Paveen Lackeen, 2005
Once, John Carney, 2007.
Bloody Sunday, Paul Grengrass, 2002
In America, Jim Sheridan
Omagh, Pete Travis, 2005
The Magdalene Sisters, Peter Mullan 

For Children:

Into the West, Mike Newell, 1992
The Ugly Duckling and Me, Michael Hegner and Karsten Kiilerich, 2007
The Secret of the Kells, Tomm Moore and Nora Twomey, 2009

 The Irish film institute website also has an archive of films

What else does Celtic Connection do?

A lot, as it turns out—Celtic Connection holds a variety of activities centered on Celtic identity throughout the year.  All the events are annual.

Upcoming is Christmas drinks at the Family pub on Friday December 17th.

Then they start off the new year with a restaurant meal for the ladies, in the tradition of Nollaig na Mna (Women’s Christmas). Traditionally, each year on January 6th men would take care of the housework for one day, offering women a chance to go out to relax with each other.

Later in January a night to celebrate the life and works of the national Bard Robert Burns: Celtic Connection’s Scottish contingent organized Burn’s night last January, complete with haggis, speeches, and music.

On March 17^th is, of course, St. Patrick’s Day.  Celtic Connection celebrates on a weekend around this date, organizing a meal at a farmhouse restaurant just outside Grenoble.  Last year, they say, “we had 70 people and a band and danced the evening away.”

On June 16th in Dublin and elsewhere is Bloomsday, to celebrate the life of Irish writer James Joyce and relive the events in his novel Ulysses, all of which took place on the same day in Dublin in 1904. Last year the Bookworm Café hosted a reading of Ulysses, with the enthusiastic David Simpson as a reader. On the agenda this year: Edwardian dress-up…? 

Around the 20th of June Celtic Connection holds their annual picnic in conjunction with the Irish association in Lyon, AFIL.  The picnic is held at a lake near Grenoble, and attendees sometimes reach 80 people, making for a great afternoon of fun, games and songs.

Celtic Connection isn’t about to miss a Halloween event on October 31st, seeing as the celebration of Halloween began in Ireland around 100AD.  There’s an event for the kiddies with traditional games, apples and fruit, and costumes, while the adults have mulled wine or the more traditional Irish coffee.  In 2010 the Halloween event was held at Café Mari and included a full Irish breakfast, which is “a brunch with sausages, rashers, eggs, black pudding, lashings of tea and brown bread” (being American, I have no idea what rashers or “lashings of tea” is supposed to indicate, so I leave this in quotations).

The Irish film showing, growing in popularity each year, takes place mid-November.

Finally, Celtic Connection winds up the calendar with Christmas drinks in an Irish bar.  It starts no later than happy hour and everyone brings food and music.  This is a social event and people are welcome to drift in and out all evening.  Celtic Connection does advise drinking in moderation, although they know that it won’t be a problem—at least on the Irish side—because “the French traditionally consume more alcohol than us!”

Don’t believe them?—According to the World Health Organization, Ireland’s per capita litre consumption increased from 7.0 in 1970 to 14.5 in 2001, and was 13.5 in 2004. This compares with 20.4 in France in 1970 down to 13.0 in 2004.  Ok, so the Irish do drink slightly more that the French . . . but it wasn’t always the case!

For more information:

Celtic Connection’s website

To be kept informed of Celtic Connection events sign up for the mailing list by emailing celtic.connection.grenoble@gmail.com

AFIL, Celtic Connection’s sister association in Lyon

The Irish Film Institute website

The 2011 official St. Patrick’s Day festival in Dublin

Burn’s Night

A detail from The Crucible poster

We talk to David Simpson, producer of Upstage – an English theatre group comprising students at Cité Internationale Europole – ahead of their 2011 production of Arthur Miller’s The Crucible.

Grenoble Life: Why did you choose Arthur Miller’s The Crucible for this year’s Upstage?

David Simpson: When you do one play a year, you want to do something good, something striking, something memorable. The Crucible is one of the most powerful and moving plays ever written, and is a very strong challenge for myself and my fellow directors, Therese Zanone and Claude Deladeuille, as well as the Upstage team as a whole.

GL: Arthur Miller’s work isn’t known for its comedy – does this mark a departure for Upstage? 

David: It’s true that we have a reputation for doing comedy, and there really is very little comic potential here. But very often, our comedies have had a serious thrust, and a couple of our plays could not really be classed as comedies at all. Top Girls, as one upstage girl said, ‘… made people laugh, and think, and cry.’ I had a lot of encouragement too, in choosing this play, from people who thought last year’s short Harold Pinter play Mountain Language was a brave and important performance, about the survival of human dignity in the face of totalitarian abuse, and the destruction of cultural identity.  

GL: What particular problems does The Crucible pose for cast and crew in terms of staging?

David: Of course, the emotional levels and the acting challenges involved are very demanding. But the intensity we’ve all been feeling already, in rehearsals, only seems to spur everyone on even more.

That’s the real area of difficulty, and everyone is coping well. Technically, in terms of the set or the lighting for example, this play is much easier to manage than many of those we’ve done in previous years. So the production team are able to focus on both subtlety and power of effect. The poster is a good example of this (see below).

GL: What makes The Crucible relevant today?

David: This year’s play is about collective hysteria and the persecution of individuals, people who could save themselves, save their lives, by confessing to something they haven’t done. As, such, it was relevant during the period of McCarthyism and witch-hunting when Miller wrote it. It’s just as relevant today.

The play is based on real events and real characters, settling their scores, their political, social or sexual rivalries in Salem, Massachusets in 1691. Who would say this doesn’t go on today? The Upstage team have taken to these issues and conflicts, and to the wide range of well-drawn and strongly contrasting characters, with great enthusiasm.

GL: How are rehearsals progressing?

David: There’s still lots to do, and two and a half months to go, but we all feel proud of what we’ve managed so far, and that this is a play that’s going places.

Watch this space for more info on performances and reflections from the cast

The Crucible poster

Dude, where's my car?

… or, don’t let the heavy stuff freeze … Vickie Allen of Destination Oisans shares some timely tips on unburying your car from the snow.

I’ve just cleared a whole heap of snow from my car. The snow storm that’s had me tucked away indoors for the past 24 hours deposited snow in Alpe d’Huez that swallowed my hand and forearm whole; a more scientifically-accurate depth of 43cm. (Thanks Mum for my new tape measure, must remember to keep it in my pocket …)

Of the many winter sports available in the Oisans region, none of the tourist bumpf includes snow clearing on it’s list of snowy sports. But it’s physically challenging, works up a sweat and is great for the soul. What better way to measure your achievement than taking a soft snowy lump (see photo above) and extracting the ice-encrusted car within?

Anyone who’s lived in the mountains will tell you that learning to love snow clearing is one of the best ways to cope with the long winter season. It’s an inevitability, and if you can embrace the idea then you can turn something painful and time consuming into something enjoyable. And surely that’s what we seek when we come to live in a climate that’s so inhospitable most of the local wildlife beds down and sleeps for half the year … and I’m not just talking about the marmottes!

Snow clearing is something best done while the snow is fresh. Leave it too long and it’ll freeze, solidifying and welding itself in thin layers to your car, path or anything else you happened to leave out in a snowstorm. And it’s not just the snow on top but the snow around. Those friendly snow plough drivers do their best to keep the roads clear but – in an effort not to scrape your car – they’ll happily block you in behind a thigh-high wall of solid snow. Tip: try not to park parallel to the curb in a snowy ski resort, it’s much easier to drive straight forwards or backwards out of a snowy space.

Over the past five years I’ve developed my snow clearing arsenal to a crack selection of efficient and necessary tools:

Essential – if unconventional – snow clearing equipment

Ortovox avalanche shovel: much more user-friendly than the typical metal snow shovel and packs down so can live in your car or your tiny resort hallway;
Bum board: essential for clearing the snow that’s actually fallen on your car without scratching the paintwork;
High boots and long trousers: believe me, when the snow’s up to your knees trainers or Timberland boots just won’t do;
Gloves: seems obvious but you’d be surprised how many people clear snow from their cars in their regular gloves. I keep an old ski pair on the back seat. I only use them for clearing the snow so it’s okay to get my hands filthy as I scrape the dirty, frozen scuzz from beneath the wheel arches and along the base of the car.

As I was clearing the snow, it occurred to me that there are so many things in life, events that we consider trials, that carry such negative connotations or feelings for us that we put them off indefinitely. And once we finally do face them head-on, how fantastic do we feel? Imagine how much more powerful and positive we’d be if we could just deal with these dreary or painful tasks as they came up, knowing that the longer we leave them, the worse they’ll become.

One winter I didn’t clear my car for about ten days. There was probably a metre of snow on top before I mustered the willpower to face the fact that no knight in shining armour was going to clear it for me. Neither would the freeze/thaw cycle of early spring do anything other than make the whole job much harder than it had to be. The whole task of clearing the car, which of course was completely necessary, was much more painful than it needed to be; partly because it was hard work but also partly because I spent the whole time beating myself up for leaving it so long.

Ah yes … that’s what my car looks like …

So I’m going to apply the ’snow clearing’ attitude to my procrastination list – which, of course, is separate to my ‘to do’ list. I’ve already been to the bank to open a savings account and taken photos of all the stuff I’ve been meaning to sell on e-Bay. What’s next on the list?

And how about you? What chore are you hoping someone else will do for you? What idea is ready to be realised but getting staler every day you put it off? What honest conversation do you need to have before the spring thaw arrives?

Get to work today and I promise you’ll feel a huge sense of achievement; just as I did when I finally unearthed the car.

Ayurveda massage

Grenoble Life talks to Karl Di Foggia about Ayurveda massage, his international background and getting started as a small business owner in Grenoble. 

Grenoble Life: What is Ayurveda and how does it differ from other kinds of massage? 

Karl Di Foggia: Ayurveda is a traditional Indian healing system. It comes from the sanskrit word ayu, meaning life and veda, meaning science. So ayurveda means the science of life. It is considered to be a holistic medical system, recognized as such by the World Health Organisation. We encounter ayurvedic clinics in countries such as India, the UK, the USA and Mexico. 

This system is based on prevention and takes into consideration the patient as a whole person at the level of body, mind and spirit. There are ayurveda textbooks that are over 5000 years old, and it is commonly admitted to be the world’s most ancient healing system. 

Ayurveda massages vary: full body massages with hot oils;  revigorating hand massages; head massages with warm oil, for flushing away stress; foot massages for improving sleep quality; pranic massage using breathing and the properties of crystals and minerals; deep massage using reflexology points all over the body … and many others to discover. 

GL: What are the health benefits of such massage? 

Karl: For prevention or in treatment for curative purposes, massages are commonly used in ayurveda. They are adapted to fit the patient’s ayurvedic profile and symptoms. They are specially designed to stimulate circulation of blood and lymph, give energy, enliven muscle tensions, detoxify the body, joints and organs, harmonize the five elements, as well as transmit the medicinal properties of plants cooked in sesame oil (tailam). It’s an efficient way of treating the body, making oneself feel united in body mind spirit, that is to say alive and happy. 

GL: Why do people come to you? 

Karl: Nowadays many people are starting to have ayurvedic treatment to discover an exotic form of relaxation through massage, and many get into it and come back regularly to embrace the full benefits. 

The motivation comes from different sources: stress at work, back pain, sciatica, poor digestion, depression, headeaches, need for relaxation or simply to discover. It can also be part of a personally designed programme following a session to determine your ayurvedic constitution and offer personalized health and dietary advice. 

GL: Who are your clients? 

Karl: My clients are local and international, depending on the sites I am working for. At the Spa at Chateau de la Commanderie, I have both business and private clients from both France and Switzerland, Germany, Belgium and England. 

For Hewlett Packard it’s about the same mix, with a broad spectrum of people. And at my offices in Eybens or Meylan, mostly locals from Grenoble and around. 

GL: Tell us about your background – when and why did you come to Grenoble? 

Karl: I was actually born and raised in Grenoble and the Alps. Although I lived in Alpe d’Huez for my first seven years, my family later moved to Seyssinet and we stayed there throughout my childhood. I moved away later on to finish my studies in England, and graduated with an MBA in engineering management. After two years missing the sun, I then settled down in Spain for a couple of years for my first job as an export salesman. After four years abroad, I needed to come back to my family and friends and I changed my career in order to work with people, as a psycho-corporal therapist. I’ve been back in Grenoble for 10 years now. 

My first experience with ayurveda was in 1997 after a trek in Kashmir, we had a rest in a beautiful place in the Himalayas with hot termal water and ayurvedic massages, lovely! 

I graduated as an ayurvedic therapist in 2004, and constantly refine my understanding of it through books, training, and sharing with other practitioners. I’ve also been doing yoga, which is another part of ayurveda. Since last year I have been sharing my passion for ayurvedic massage through training sessions. 

GL: What can people do to learn more about Ayurvedic massage or train in this method? 

Karl: To learn more about ayurvedic massage you can start with web research, texts, books and videos. You could visit my website and find the links page with selected videos on ayurvedic massages.

I am also giving training sessions in the ayurvedic massage ‘Abyangha’ in Meylan, a 3-hour session all year long on a forthnightly basis. Or over a set of seven weekends divided into themes such as back, neck and arms; legs and feet; head and face … from November to July. More info on my website.

GL: How did you set up your own business? Which organisations did you find useful in helping you set up? 

Karl: I chose to be independent under the auto-entrepreneur status. To choose the best legal status I got advice from Chambre de Commerce de l’Isere and personnal sessions with a specialist in company-creation through Pole Emploi. 

I’ve also heard that ADIE would be helpful for small businesses needing finance. 

GL: What do you love about Grenoble? 

Karl: Not the city as itself – although it still remains at a human level (the flattest city in France, people say), you cross the centre in a 15-minute walk – but the surroundings. I mean the fact that you can escape to a lovely place in the mountains in a short car drive.

Check out this teaser for the documentary ways2winter about life and snowsports in the local resort of Les 2 Alpes made by British filmmakers.

ways2winter is a feature-length documentary following two British seasonaires in the local resort of Les 2 Alpes through the winter season 09/10. It’s not your average snowsports film. Sure, there’s plenty of riding but there’s also hard work and strong personalities, showing the reality of seasonaire life.

The two subjects – Will & Heather – were chosen for their commitment to the resort, contrasting jobs and talent on the mountain. The film includes riding sections filmed in 2 Alpes’ celebrated Snow Park, the nearby freeride itineraries of Alpe d’Huez, St Christophe and La Grave, as well as the Derby de la Meije, the Sarenne Snow Bike event and the 2 Alpes Derby. But it’s not all riding. Video diaries and interviews bare Will and Heather’s souls as they overcome personal and work issues, struggling to find a balance between life on and off the mountain. It gets pretty intense at times, and their honesty gives viewers an insight into their feelings and contradictions.  

The film was made by Vickie Allen and Simon Parfitt, who have spent the past four years in Les 2 Alpes. Simon’s speciality is snowboarding and ski films, while Vickie comes from a background in journalism and short films, such as those at Destination Oisans. ways2winter is their first joint-project and their first documentary. Made without a budget, the filmmakers’ motivation was to create an authentic representation of winter seasons and promote the ski resorts of the Oisans region.

Robin Hood - a pantomime. A detail from this year's poster.

As the Junior High students at Cité Scolaire Internationale start rehearsals for the annual pantomime, Grenoble Life catches up with some of the cast.

Siobhan Coakley is playing ‘King Richard’, Jessica Vacheresse is playing ‘Lady Eleanor’, and is also Choir Director, and Matthew Lloyd is playing ‘Bobby, the Castle Guard’.

Grenoble Life: How old are you and what year are you in at the Cité Scolaire Internationale? 

Siobhan: I’m fourteen and I’m in troisième. 

Jessica: I’m fourteen and currently in troisième.

Matthew: I’m twelve and I am in cinqième. 

GL: Why did you decide to get involved with the school panto? 

Siobhan: I’ve seen previous pantomimes from the school when I first came to France. I love singing, dancing, acting and the idea of the audience taking part in the show so it was definitely something I wanted to be a part of. It’s also very different to the other types of theatre in France so it was also the excitement to be a part of something original to this country. 

Jessica: I decided to get involved in the school panto because I used to go and see it every year, and I always really enjoyed it. I also wanted to discover acting and making the public laugh. I’ve been acting in the panto for three years now. 

Matthew: I got involved in the panto because I thought it would be fun to take part.

GL: Have you ever performed on stage before? How do you feel about it – nervous, excited?  

Siobhan: Yes, when I lived in Ireland I was a part of a lot of dance, musical theatre and speech and drama clubs, so I had performed on stage before, I just wasn’t quite aware of all the people watching me at the time because I was a lot younger. However now I realize the “responsibility” of giving a good performance. Before going on stage I always feel anxious, excited and extremely nervous but once I get on stage (like many people performing in the pantomime) I don’t want to get off! 

Jessica: I’d performed on stage a couple of times before, in small singing concerts with the music school I went to. I think the memory of the fun I had on stage back then gave me confidence to walk on stage at panto. The feeling before the panto show is always tense, yet we can’t wait to start. It’s during the last couple of weeks before the show that the cast really gets close together and by the time we start the BIG week we feel like a giant family. 

Matthew: I’ve never performed on stage and I’m actually really looking forward to it.

GL: So you’ll be acting, singing and dancing? Which are you best at and which are the most difficult for you? Why? 

Siobhan: I’d say I’m probably best at dancing and acting, because they’re what I’m most experienced at. Although I’d say acting is harder because you really need to find a way to stay in character , especially during the embarrassing or intense parts. What embarrasses you usually doesn’t embarrass your character. 

Jessica: I, like most of the cast, act, dance and sing. To me singing and acting are the easiest. When I act I feel like myself (which is quite ironic as I’m not being myself!) I also love singing. Dancing isn’t my strongest point; some people feel like they’re flying when they dance. Personally I find it really difficult to coordinate my movements.

Matthew: I think I’m best at acting because I like it, whereas singing or dancing I don’t really like. 

GL: Did you all know about pantomimes before you got involved in this one? 

Siobhan: Yes, it was always a tradition when I lived in Ireland to go see a pantomime around Christmas time. So doing the pantomime at school brings back a lot of memories. 

Jessica: I don’t think many people in the cast knew much about pantomimes before watching our school panto or participating in it. One of the adults involved has sent us videos of pantomimes in the UK but most of us had never been to see one ‘live’, apart from our school panto!! 

Matthew: I’ve already been to a pantomime in England called ‘Peter Pan’. 

What interests you about the story of Robin Hood? 

Siobhan: What interests me about the story of Robin Hood is that it has never been done before as a pantomime. So the scriptwriters were able to create a completely new pantomime which we would be the first to put into production! 

Jessica: What I like about Robin Hood is that it’s not like the usual fairytales. It really might have happened! The prince has been replaced by an outlaw who wants to help, the princess has been replaced by a maid, and the “bad guy” rules the country! The roles have been exchanged and that’s what makes Robin Hood great. It also makes it an AMAZING panto! I can’t wait to see what people think about it when seeing it.

Matthew: The thing that interests me about the story of ‘Robin Hood’ is that he steals from the rich and gives to the poor. 

GL: When did you start rehearsing, and how many rehearsals do you have each week? 

Siobhan: We started rehearsing in the start of September and we have two hour rehearsals each Tuesday and Thursday, as well as occasional song and dance rehearsals at lunch time and on Saturday mornings. 

Jessica: We tried out for this year’s panto in May, just before the summer holidays. That’s when we were given our roles. But the actual rehearsals started at the beginning of our school year, in September. We have two permanent rehearsals: they take place every Tuesday and Thursday evening from 5 pm to 7 pm, at the Cité Scolaire Internationale. (Thanks to our direction team who do a great job of helping us!) We also occasionally have singing and dancing rehearsals on Tuesdays and Fridays from 12pm to 2pm. (Thanks to song director and dance director who are there every time to encouraging us!) Some of the cast also participates in the panto choir. Their rehearsals take place at the same time as general rehearsals. All of these hours make our timetable heavier but we are prepared to take that on board to participate in this year’s Pantomime, Robin Hood.

Can’t wait to see you at the show!! 

Matthew: We started rehearsing the panto in early September and we have two rehearsals per week (if you not dancing or singing in it). 

Shows will happen at the Cité Scolaire Internationale (Terminus Tram B), 4 place de Sfax, in Grenoble, on Wednesday January 26th (2.30pm), Thursday January 27th (7.30pm), Friday January 28th (7.30pm), Saturday January 29th (10am), and Saturday January 29th (7.30pm). 

We highly recommend that you reserve tickets (over 18: 6 euros, 4-18: 3 euros, under 4: free).   

Send name, address, email address, date and time, and number of tickets (adult/child/under 4s) required to gregg.west@ac-grenoble.fr.  

A check, payable to Umbrella Association, is to be sent within a week to Gregg West, c/o Cité Scolaire Internationale, BP 1570, 4 place de Sfax, 38012 Grenoble Cedex 01.  Tickets will be held at the door for you. You will be asked for an ID. 

Lastly, you may see our sparkling poster up (see below) in some English speaking place, or in an English speaking website. Look for it! 

Robin Hood Poster

Sarah Setton

Grenoble Life talks to Sarah Setton about Feng Shui and Traditional Chinese Medicine ahead of an open evening at Les Sources wellness center in Meylan on Friday November 26.

Grenoble Life: Who are you and what do you do?

Sarah Setton: I’m an American who’s lived in France for the past 20 years. Professionally, I’m a practitioner of Feng Shui (a technique that improves and optimizes the impact of your environment on your quality of life) and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), meaning I care for my patients using acupuncture, massage and herbal therapies. Globally, I help places and people heal.

GL: Where do you come from originally and why did you come to France.

Sarah: I’m from the east coast of the United States, I was born in New Jersey, grew up in Delaware and went to university in Virginia.  Most recently, I lived in Philadelphia before moving to France to follow my sweetheart, who was French.

GL: Tell us about Les Sources: what are the different services offered and how did it come into existence?

Sarah: Les Sources is a wellness center in Meylan that I helped create three and a half years ago with a few friends who also practice Chinese Medicine. We imagined a locale where different sorts of practitioners could share their passion for alternative therapies and practice their different techniques. When we undertook the project, there weren’t really any wellness centers in the region, but within six months or so, a few others had sprung up. 

At present we have around 30 practitioners and teachers at the center. There are a few ‘classic’ therapists including an orthoptiste (vision therapist), a kinestherapeute (physical therapist), psychotherapists and two nurses who specialize in wound management. There are also less well-known disciplines like lithotherapy (therapy with stones), reflexology plantaire (foot massage), kinesiology (working with the bodies subtle energies), shiatsu, naturopathy, sophrology and various sorts of well-being massage including Californian, Ayurvedic, and Balinese massage. Not to forget Traditional Chinese Medicine and Feng Shui!

I’m really excited that an esthetician recently joined us from a well know local spa. I think her presence is extremely complementary to the other services and opens up other possibilities for feeling good about oneself and moving toward improved physical and emotional health. 

In addition to the therapists practicing at Les Sources, there are weekly classes in our Great Room on the second floor.  This year the courses include Yoga, Tai Ji and Qi Gong (Have you seen images of lots Chinese all following the same choreography in a park?  That’s what we’re talking about here!), Do-in (auto-massage for relaxation), Ayurvedic massage, and MLC (Method de Liberation des Cuirasses, a very gentle and effective way of un-tying deep, chronic physical/emotional tensions.)

Starting in January, there will be monthly conferences on different health related topics. For instance on January 21st. I’m participating in a roundtable on nutrition and health with a naturopath and a practitioner of Ayurvedic medicine. We’ll be discussing the impact of how we eat from the three different perspectives, and then we’ll be taking questions from the audience.  It should be very interesting, and perhaps useful after the holidays! 

Finally, there are evening and weekend workshops throughout the year. The topics are extremely varied, but to give a few examples, we’ve hosted workshops in Indian and African Dance, Meditation techniques, Yoga, therapeutic singing, astrology, sophrology, Tai Ji and Qi Gong, Tantra, Raising one’s personal energy level….the list goes on!

GL: When and where did you learn about Chinese medecine and Feng Shui?

Sarah: I did all my studies on ‘subjects Chinese’ here in France, at Feng Shui France in Paris, and at the CEDRE in Valance for the TCM. I was fortunate that when I moved to France. Those things I did professionally in the US were no longer open to me, and I had to recreate myself.  At the time it didn’t seem like much of a gift, but in retrospect, I realize how lucky I was! I was obliged to re-examine who I was and in doing so, I realized I wanted to help people in a very hands-on way. 

I ‘fell’ into the Feng Shui when my mother left me a book on the subject. I was intrigued by this technique that claimed to change the quality of ones’ life by ‘rearranging the furniture’ (It’s MUCH more complicated than that, but I didn’t realize that at the time!). After some experimentation, I realized it really worked  (I was amazed!) and I sought out a teacher to help me learn more. I was lucky to find a serious, three year long practitioner training course and I enrolled. 

After getting my practitioner diploma and practicing for a while, I realized the majority of my clients had health problems. With Feng Shui it’s possible to improve a global situation that leads to poor health and other difficulties, but it’s less effective than working directly with the person to improve their well-being. That’s when I decided to become a practitioner of TCM as well. I’ve now been practicing Feng Shui for 15 years now, and Traditional Chinese Medicine for seven. I’m very fortunate to wake up every morning and be excited about what the day holds in store for me!

GL: Tell us about your open evening on November 26th.

Sarah: The practitioners and teachers at Les Sources have organized an ‘Open House’ evening to give people the opportunity to meet everyone, see the center and perhaps learn about unfamiliar therapies. It starts at 17.00 on Friday November 26, and finishes at 21.00. There will even be a few mini-workshops offered in the great room from 18.00 to 20.00 to entice people to try the various techniques offered by the teachers! There will be ample time for people to meet the various practitioners and at the end of the evening there will be an informal moment with refreshments. The event is open to everyone and there is no set starting time, people can come and go as they please.

GL: What do you love about Grenoble?

Sarah: I love the museum of art, walking up to the Bastille, Cabaret Frappe!  Grenoble is a cozy city blessed with an extraordinary environment. It’s a pleasure just to look around when I’m in the tram and discover the lovely details in the buildings or to watch the mountains come alive at any given season as the light and shadows change the scenery.

GL: If there are questions about the Open House evening, how can our readers get more information?

Sarah: They can call me at 06 72 99 52 00. We are creating a website for the Les Sources, but it isn’t yet a reality. In a few month’s time though, if you look up Les Sources à Meylan on the internet, you should be able to read about all our activities!

Slack lining in Parc Paul Mistral

In the second post of his blog ‘From Admission to Graduation’ MBA student Joseph Schott shares his experiences studying in Grenoble and tells us about slacklining.

Two months into the MBA program at Grenoble Graduate School of Business, and I already feel like I’ve accomplished a lot. Traversed a long, dark tunnel of French bureaucracy? Check. Met classmates from all around the globe? Check. I’ve even finished a few modules. Now its time to settle in and enjoy all that the city has to offer. So far, the relaxed vibe and multicultural atmosphere has been just what I was looking for. There are so many universities and innovative firms located in Grenoble that I keep running into interesting people all the time. I still have a long list of new places to see, but today I want to write about something new I found a few weeks back.

Walking through Parc Mistral, I noticed a man floating in the air between two trees. I took a quick look around. The trees were swaying gently in the wind and the sky was clear. There were families picnicking on the grass. I checked again, and sure enough he was now walking, carefully suspended about one half meter above the ground. Someone was beating out a rhythm with drums near La tour Perret. Beneath him, I could just barely make out the shimmer of something stretched between the two trees: my first look at a slackline.

In slacklining, you try to find your balance and walk back and forth on a band of flexible material that can vary in length, width, and elasticity. The material is very thin, which is why I couldn’t see it very well from the side, and the elastic fabric stretches with each step, making it very different from tight-rope walking.

Slacklines can be connected to any two anchor points, like trees in a park. Since the line is so close to the ground, when you lose your balance you just step back on the grass. If you go up in the mountains and anchor the line between two sides of a crag, it is called highlining. In this case, you’ll need to wear a climbing harness and attach a safety cord that travels with you around the line. Go up even higher to where the air starts getting thin, and you have something people call skylining.

A slackline

For me, it was satisfying enough just managing to walk back and forth between two trees. The flexibility in the line causes it to wobble back and forth beneath you, and it must have taken me two hours to just barely stumble to the other side. It’s all about balance. Making it through requires a kind of Zen concentration to clear your mind and focus only on your body and the line.

A beginner mistake is to stare at your feet, but since your feet are moving around with the line, this makes it hard for your brain to know where the ground is in relation to your body. It’s much better to stare straight ahead at something that doesn’t move and raise your arms for balance. You need to keep good posture, with your hips forward. As people get better, they start to add tricks. Jumping around on the line, sitting down and standing back up, doing splits, yoga, whatever you can think of. What used to be known as “what rock climbers do when they’re bored” has really come into its own.

My MBA program is moving fast, and I’m meeting people, learning a lot, and getting ready for my next career move. Our course on international negotiation in particular is extremely hands on and engrossing. Some days though, when I’ve done too much accounting and just need to clear the numbers out of my head, a Saturday afternoon slacklining is a great way to do it. Best of all, the slackliners I’ve met around Grenoble are always welcoming of new people who stroll by and want to see what is going on. This communal atmosphere makes it a great way to meet new people and get connected to an interesting international crowd.

For some more information, you can check out the wiki here and two great videos, here and here.

Where to go? Christa Gimblett points us in the right direction

Grenoble Life ski reporter Christa Gimblett gives the lowdown on budget skiing options in good time for the upcoming season.

If you’ve moved to Grenoble, chances are you’ve done so for the unparalleled skiing opportunities. Come on, admit it. You don’t have to pretend to me. And unless you won the lottery recently, you’re probably making sacrifices for the sake of the white stuff.

Brits tend to think of winter sports as being the preserve of wealthy middle-class Tarquins spending Daddy’s money (and if you only ski the Tarentaise you’d be forgiven for believing it). I’m not about to claim that you can ski on a shoestring, but there are ways of maximizing quality mountain time without breaking the bank.

Understand resort pricing

A day pass bought from the ticket window is sold at the equivalent of what hotels call rack rate. It’s the full top whack price used to calculate all the resort’s discounts. Don’t pay it if you don’t have to. Discounts are routinely available for all kinds of reasons, including (but not limited to) being young/old/a student/disabled/a big family; buying on the web; buying multiple days at once; bringing a huge group … you get the picture. Do your research – even the smallest resort has a website with pricing policies listed for all to see.

Bring your documents with you!

You’d be amazed how many people don’t do this and still expect to get a cheap ticket. You might well be old/young/a student etc etc, but no-one is going to take your word for it. Resorts suffer increasing levels of fraud, and their staff are suspicious and cynical. If you can’t produce your valid student ID, disability certificate, whatever, then you’re going to be out of luck.

Buy online in advance

You know you’re going skiing a week on Sunday. Why waste valuable hill time lining up at the ticket window with the hoi polloi? Most resorts sell online and will post your pass to you. They also offer discounted web-only rates – last season you could ski 2Alpes on a Saturday for over 10€ less than window price just because you bought the pass in the comfort of your own home. Bargain!

Join a club

Student members of the university’s Ecole de Glisse ski at 2Alpes for under 15€ when everyone else is paying nearly 40€. Check out local clubs and see what they offer. As well as financial advantage, you’ll find skiing friends who know the local resorts.

Surf the web

Sites like www.vente-privee.com sometimes offer reduced ski passes; Transisere do a bus-ticket-plus-lift-pass deal, which means cheap skiing with the bonus of being able to have a snooze on the way home; the Pass Cinésnowcard costs 10€ and offers some whopping ski discounts. An evening’s Googling can pay dividends in bargain ski time.

Get a season ticket

If you do enough skiing, a season pass can offer a huge reduction on the full day rate, but you need to do the sums carefully because they’re expensive in the first place. Check what discounts are available on the season ticket – for buying early, or owning an apartment in resort, for example. Consider how many days you’re likely to ski, then work out how much the pass will cost you per day’s skiing, and bear in mind any other discount you’re entitled to. If you’re disabled, for example, you can claim a big reduction on a day pass, so a season ticket has to work that bit harder to be worthwhile.

The other big advantage of a season pass is that you stick to one resort and get to know it well. After a few weekends you’ll begin to know where to find powder stashes a week after the last snowfall, which pistes are boiler plate ice in the mornings, where the decent snow is when everything else has turned to porridge on an April afternoon … etc. This won’t save you any money per se, but it means you will wring the maximum value out of your pass in terms of quality slide time.

Choose when you ski

Hotels and holiday apartments change over on a Saturday. This means that on Saturday mornings everyone is packing, cleaning, stressing about where the car keys are and trying to make the kids go for a wee before they get in the car. Most pertinently, they are not on the slopes. Get yourself out of bed early on a Saturday morning to hit first lifts, and you’ll have the place to yourself until lunchtime even in the big resorts in February. Again, this may not save you money (though there are web discounts for Saturday precisely because it’s quiet) but you certainly get the best value for your cash.

Don’t follow the herd …..

I know the British think Val d’Isere is the only resort worth talking about, but I’m here to tell you that they are dead wrong. I suppose you could get up at five in the morning to drive the necessary 170km, then pay 50€ to queue for half an hour and then find that the resort’s seasonnaires have tracked all the powder, but why would you? Particularly when, as a Grenoblois, you practically trip over a ski area every time you leave the house. The city is ringed by small to medium sized resorts where 40 minutes drive gets you a day out at half the price of the usines de ski and you can have steak frites and a beer on the mountain without taking out a mortgage. This is where your French friends and colleagues are going every weekend. And what’s more, these resorts are not infested with seasonnaires who think they’re off-piste gods, which seriously ups your chances of getting fresh tracks even if the last snowfall was on Wednesday morning when you were stuck in that meeting. Check out www.skifrance.fr – you’re spolit for choice.

And finally, my apologies …

…. to all of you who snowboard. I know you do. I do it as well. It’s just cumbersome to say ‘ski and/or board’ all the time. Sorry.

————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Christa Gimblett left the UK for a seasonal job in Europe in the recession of the early 90s and forgot to go home again, spending nearly 15 years working for UK tour operators up various mountains. Now living in Bourg d’Oisans with no cash, two cats, a man with a broken foot and a car which looks like a frog.

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For all your administrative nightmares: Binders. Photo: nick findley

Grenoble Life editor James Dalrymple had to do a Validation des Acquis Professionnels et Personnels (VAPP) and survived to tell the tale. Here’s what happened and why.

Master your subject

For those wanting to one day take the competitive teaching exams or concours de l’enseignement (CAPES, Agrégation) to become a teacher for the French state system, you may be aware that things have changed. The government have scrapped the institutes (IUFMs) that provided teachers with practical training after these exams to gear them up for life in a classroom. Instead, it is now an obligation to have a Master’s degree in your chosen field before taking the concours, the second year of which orientates wanabee profs in two directions: a master’s in pedagogy (for those teachers taking the CAPES) and a master’s in research (for those wishing to take the agrég).

Setting aside the questionable French wisdom of abandoning practical teacher training for more theory – and thus a greater insistence on what you know as opposed to can you teach? – the shake-up has a number of consequences for anglophones intending to run the gauntlet. Firstly, you will require a master’s degree or equivalent in order to take the exams; secondly, the requirements for entering into these master’s programmes have become much stricter.

Getting a head start

When I arrived in Grenoble I knew several anglophones who had been able to enter directly into the second year of the Etudes Anglophones master’s programme given that they had a Bachelor’s degree in their native country and were seen as having an advantage over French students who had studied English literature to degree level in France. Therefore such people were able to obtain a master’s level (aka, Bac + 5) having completed what amounted to one term of classes evaluated via graded written work and oral presentations, and a dissertation on the research subject of their choice. One of my friends even wrote an article here about it. However, upon applying myself, I was told that a Bachelor’s was not sufficient to enter into Master 2, and my claims to know people who had done this were met with indifference. Something had changed, but no-one would explain what and why, nor was there information online to this explicit effect.

Formalising experience

At 32 years old with a job and a family, I was not able to commit to the full two years of the programme, especially frustrating since I knew people who had – with the same BA-level qualifications – gone directly into Master 2 with minimum fuss. There are two potential administrative procedures for people in my position: a Validation des Etudes and a Validation des Acquis Professionnels et Personnels (VAPP). As I hadn’t done enough additional post-degree study according to the new rules to claim the equivalence of the first year of the master’s, I failed in my efforts to pursue the former (lighter) route. Given I have worked (first in publishing and then in teaching) for around ten years, I had to opt for the VAPP. This also applies if you are over 28 or have interrupted your studies for more than three years (check for me on both counts!).

As far as I know, the VAPP doesn’t exist in anglophone countries but is a necessity in France where qualifications weigh so much more than work experience. It is not enough just to submit a CV. In France your experience has to be formally recognised by a commission and involves the supply of copious justificatifs (i.e. proof), explantory detail of all your acquired skills and knowledge and certified translations of your diplomas and certificates. In effect, the VAPP dossier becomes less of an application than a lengthy project that must be printed and bound six times.

Luckily for me I have a patient wife who was brought up in the French education system and has a black belt in admin. Without the help of such a person, you might as well forget about doing the VAPP. It is not just a question of being able to write French perfectly, but of knowing the specific terminology adopted within France’s idiosyncratic employment culture to explain one’s skills and knowledge. This requires hours of research in itself.  

Beware sworn translators

Worst of all, we had a dispute with a sworn translator, unbelievably British in origin herself, over grade equivalences. If you have a 2:1 Honours degree from a British university, this is the second highest mark you can receive after a First. Thus you would expect this to be translated as Mention Bien, the second highest level in France. Our translator, however, on whom we depended to certify the document as well as translate it, wanted to put Mention Assez Bien, effectively demoting my grade by one level. On this issue she would not budge despite our protestations. In the end we had to settle for her leaving the grade in English, and translating the rest, and hoping that the commission presiding over my dossier could understand the value of a 2:1.

Jumping through hoops

My dossier has been approved, but I can’t shake off the feeling that this was just a hoop thrown up for me to jump through – that the detail of my application was less important than my having tackled the time-consuming obstacle thrown in my path. I imagine that, in undertaking such an arduous task, I have proved to the commission who approve the VAPP that I am genuinely motivated. Wouldn’t a simple interview have sufficed ?

Feel free to use the comments box below to share similar experiences and advice or your own administrative nightmares.

Visuel de l’affiche de l’exposition « Mes semblables » © R. Oudinot 2010

Grenoble Life talked to photographer Remi Oudinot ahead of his exhibition Mes Semblables, which runs at Librairie Arthaud throughout October.

Grenoble Life: Can you explain the title of your exhibition, Mes Semblables?

Remi Oudinot : The title Mes Semblables came to my mind when trying to explain what motivates my photography practice: when and why do I trigger my camera shutter?

I do mostly street photography. And when out for “shooting”, I am on my own, a stranger in the crowd. This is especially true when I’m travelling abroad for professional or personal matters. I don’t look specifically for funny or odd situations, à la Doisneau, but rather I stop at simple human beings who, just like me, seem to be “strangers lost in the crowd”. They might be “locals”, but the expression I see on their face, the feelings their attitude conveys, separate them from the flow. 

I see them, and instantly want to capture the instant with the right angle, frame, light and colors (ok, I also do a bit of black & white !). We are alike, they are mes semblables. 

GL: Do you find many of your “semblables” in Grenoble?

Remi : I love Grenoble and its crowd. But Grenoble is not the best place for that. I believe that I need to feel like a stranger to identify my “subjects”, for the above mentioned reasons. Each time I’ve tried in Grenoble, I tend to capture anecdotes with little to no emotions. These pics are not “keepers” for me. Travelling is an easier (lazy?) way to please my retina.

GL: Many of your photos are the result of your travels: where have you been?

Remi : Mostly in the US. Mostly west coast, but I always try to find a plane stop to spend a couple days in New York on my way back.

I’ve been to Singapore too but wish I could experience Asia a bit deeper. I need to go to Japan!

Then Europe works for me as well, from Denmark to Turkey. A few hundreds kms away from Grenoble works too (I love the old downtown districts of Nice or Turin)

GL: Tell us about how you became interested in photography.

Remi : A 1983 Kodak Instamatic 77X: that was my birthday present when I turned nine. It produced little squared shots, very Polaroid-like. 

I’ve always been of the creative type, and I guess I’ve found photography to suit my creative aspirations. Like drawing, only easier and faster? Just kidding! But from then, I’ve never stopped shooting and really got serious about it seven or eight years ago, with the rise of affordable digital SLRs, matching my geeky addictions. Shooting, trying, improving, editing and shooting again. That really helped me a lot to find my very own way. Oddly enough, I’m now shooting film again, with a 1980-era Yashica Mat, and it brings additional fun that again boosts my appetite for image-making.

GL: What other exhibitions have you been involved in?

Remi : I exhibited a New York series last year at Gaia Store, a very nice travel-oriented bookstore in Grenoble. Then, I’ve been selected by the Maison de la Photographie et de l’Image, with a series on Le Voyage which was on display at the Ancien Musée de Peintures, place de Verdun. Lastly, the Luxembourg Chamber of Commerce exhibited some of my latest photos, as one of the “winning artists” for the European contest States of Creation.

The October expo at Librairie Arthaud will be my first, true, full-scale “solo” exhibition.

By the way, there’s a Facebook page for people willing to follow my updates. 

GL: What other galleries and artists in Grenoble can you recommend to our readers?

Remi : I like the work of Jean-Pierre Angei, Dominique Combarnous, Bruno Moyen and many other talented local professional or amateur photographers. There are not so many official places where photography can be enjoyed but I know that La Maison de la Photographie et de l’Image is struggling to make Grenoble a better place for that. For now, scrutinizing Facebook, Twitter, Flickr and the like is a good way to keep an eye on our local ecosystem of image makers.

GL: Where are you travelling next?

Remi : I’m just back from Amsterdam, thinking about Madagascar. But that might not happen in the next few weeks. I really need to set up a PayPal account to find sponsors !

GL: What projects for exhibitions and collaborations do you have for the future?

Remi : I will first focus on the upcoming expo. I’m just done with the editing and hope your readers will enjoy what I’m sharing. If they do, I’ll start to think about what’s next.

Anyone remember this? Photo: litherland

In August Grenoble Life editor James Dalrymple found himself with time to burn and decided to enrol in French classes at the CUEF. Here’s what he has to say.

Between finishing my job as a teacher in a private institute and beginning life in l’éducation nationale , I found myself the grateful recipient of more than one year’s untaken annual holiday. To get a taste of university life ahead of my new job on campus, and avoid spending all day in my dressing gown, I enrolled in a semi-intensive French class called Passerelle pour l’université française at the CUEF, one of the many rather inelegant departmental acronyms found there.

Centre Universitaire d’Etudes Françaises (CUEF) is part of Stendhal University and offers a variety of courses of different durations and tailored to different levels. According to the website the Passerelle “s’adresse aux étudiants désireux de s’inscrire dans une université française,“ which might lead you to the conclusion that it is less a language class than a series of lectures. In fact it is a fairly varied and pleasant FLE-style course comprising four hours of class time a day for two weeks, focused on improving a facility for formal expression and speaking.

Working on a rich range of materials including articles, video and audio reports, the course enables a broadening of vocab and a tightening of written style that suited me just fine. Longer summer courses exist, but the timing of the Passerelle was better for me. I should also add that this was not a class that prioritised free oral expression, although we had opportunity to debate the themes which arose in the materials (such as: the history of social housing in France, the future of urbanisation, surrogate motherhood).

The course was also a reminder of some of French education’s more idiosyncratic aspects: the insistence on summarizing and reducing articles from the press to their bare essentials, long after students had shown an understanding of the text. Agree with the efficacy of such an activity or not, it is a common exercise in French classrooms and worth familiarising yourself with if you are planning to study here. Personally, as someone who had learnt most of their shaky French à l’orale, I made masses of progress in terms of written structure, vocab and grammar.

The two weeks included access to a multimedia lab which was essentially just a computer room manned by a teacher-technician who could sometimes advise on specific online exercises to meet your needs. Furthermore, the fee included a guided visit to Musée Dauphinois which currently hosts an interesting temporary exhibition on Grenoble-born luminary Jacques de Vaucanson (1709–1782), one of the fathers of early robots: mechanical automatons that owed their design to greater understanding of the human anatomy.

Normally the course is aimed at B1 and B2 students, but I was pleasantly surprised to be told that I was pushing completion of C1 by the end of the course (and I was given a handy certificate to this effect; always useful in France), so there was a bit of a spread of levels in the group. This didn’t seem to matter too much, though, and it was great to be in one of those multi-national (albeit predominantly German) learning contexts where the common language is the one being studied.

If you have had good or bad experiences at the CUEF, please share them with us below. For further information on the CUEF and other French language courses in Grenoble, check this out.

Grenoble Life’s James Dalrymple talks to blogger-photographer extraordinaire Gaëlle Brunet about Grenoble Daily Photo, music photography and her upcoming exhibition at Musée Dauphinois.

Grenoble Life: How long has Grenoble Daily Photo blog been going and why did you start?

Gaëlle Brunet: I started the blog three and a half years ago, in February 2007, when I discovered the Daily Photo Blog community (www.citydailyphoto.com). At that time, there was only a handful of cities involved but now we are more than 1200 all over the world.

I was mainly aiming at helping people discover Grenoble and it was also a good way to share my pictures.

GL: What do you think makes Grenoble so photogenic – what are your sources of inspiration?

Gaëlle: One of the major assets of Grenoble is its diversity. You can easily take pictures of a brand new glass building and an hour later photograph a landscape with mountains in the background. But when it comes to photography, I must admit I’m usually more interested in modern buildings than nature!      

GL: I often hear people say that Grenoble is not a beautiful city. What do you say to them?

Gaëlle: I often tell them not to be so categorical, even if I can understand why they tend to say that. I’m originally from Grenoble but have lived in other cities and other countries as well and it’s true that my hometown may not be that appealing at first sight! But as soon as you take some time to explore it, you inevitably discover areas, streets, buildings, that are interesting and even beautiful sometimes!

Some people might not agree with me but I also think that the public works done over the past few years have contributed to improve the general appearance of Grenoble (I’m thinking about the stadium, the works on Boulevard Joseph Vallier, the surroundings of the train station and the whole Europole neighbourhood, the Mistral area etc…).

GL: You also specialise in music photography (concerts, festivals etc.). Tell us about that.

Gaëlle: I’ve always been interested in both music and photography. Before I became a photographer I was working in a record shop. When I made the transition between these two jobs music photography naturally came as a good option for me and I now work with a photo-agency exclusively specialised in that field.

Taking pictures during concerts is very different from taking pictures outside or in a studio. You have no control on what is happening on stage, or on the lights for example. It’s an endless challenge! And I like that because it’s very stimulating. 

GL: You’ll be exhibiting some photos at Musée Dauphinois soon – tell us more!

Gaëlle: Yes, I’ll be exhibiting some photos from the new black and white series I’ve been working on since last June.

It will be a collective exhibition, with works from artists living or working in the St Laurent/Right Bank area. The opening of the exhibition will take place during the European Heritage Days (September, 18) and our photos and videos will remain visible at Musée Dauphinois until the end of the month. You can find all the details on this website: www.quartierdesarts.org

GL: Do you have any tips for other amateur photographers in Grenoble: associations to join, galleries to visit etc.?

Gaëlle: Well I know that some photographers gather regularly and organise what they have called Grenoble Photo Walks all around town but I’ve never joined them.

I don’t think Grenoble’s got galleries specialised in photography (I might be wrong)  but if you’re hungry for art in general, there are a lot of places you can visit : Le Magasin, Spacejunk Gallery, CAB (Centre d’Art Bastille) among others. You can also find interesting exhibitions in a few cafés and restaurant like DiFérenT (4, place Sainte Claire).     

GL: Do you ever get tired of taking pictures of Grenoble?

Gaëlle: Sometimes, yes. But I’m not running out of subjects to photograph yet so it never lasts very long. And I also regularly take pictures in other cities and countries just for a pleasant change!  

GL: How have your pictures changed since you started the blog?

Gaëlle: Honestly, I can’t really tell. Some things haven’t changed. I’m still interested in architecture photography, I’m still hunting graffiti, stencils and all kinds of street art on the walls of the city for example. But I hope the quality of my pictures is better now!

Grenoble ... 'a rich intercultural nature'. Copyright Agence Prisme / Pierre Jayet

Mary Zaccai, international press officer at Grenoble Ecole de Management, hits back at the negative and sensationalist media coverage of recent events in Grenoble.

I have this frustrating feeling that all the hard work I am putting in each day promoting Grenoble Ecole de Management (Grenoble Graduate School of Business) and by extension Grenoble itself is being severely put into question by all the negative media frenzy about the city.

Listening to and reading international press, it is as if Grenoble is one of the most dangerous cities in the world, hit by crime and drugs … are we talking about the same place?? Am I living in such conditions? Certainly not.

Just by running a google news search on Grenoble, I noticed that usual news about mountaineering, football etc. has been dramatically replaced by news about the speech president Nicolas Sarkozy delivered in Grenoble, days after one neighbourhood of the city was hit by riots. The riots began when 27-year-old Karim Boudouda robbed a nearby casino and fled to his neighbourhood, Villeneuve. When cornered by the police, he opened fire and the police shot him dead. The riots were limited to a small area, but the media frenzy made it as is the entire of Grenoble has become a war zone. As for the speech, as the Financial Times mentions: “Never before has a French head of state made such an explicit link between immigration and crime.” And he decided to do so in beautiful Grenoble, forever linking the city to shocking suggestions such as citizenship-stripping proposals to deal with immigration.

The irony of all this is that the attraction of Grenoble lies primarily in its rich intercultural nature. The school is a prime example with 96 different nationalities from all quarters of the world. Walking through the streets, our students are always struck by the many different languages they hear, delicious smells from the American cookie shop or the Arabic cake stands, the sushi bars, the Italian quarter … a melting-pot with all the advantages that this has to offer. Not to mention: its history, beautiful sites, booming economy largely based on international connections, and vast student population that brings this vibrant feel to the city.

Grenoble, the city I was born to, the city I came back to after living in the UK for seven years, the city I promote - is for me a safe haven, a thriving and dynamic city, enriched by a multitude of cultures. A place to meet the world.

Girose glacier from Dome de la Lauze

Rebecca Skillman narrates the highs and lows of a walk on the wild side: a 3-day glacier hike roped to a mercurial mountain guide at an altitude of over 3000m.

August 2010

Inspired by my husband, Juan, who has been yearning to do a glacier walk for yonks, and our crampons, unused in their boxes since winter, we book on the Bureau des Guides des Ecrins three-day Randonnée glaciaire around the Meije. We know the Ecrins well, but walking above 3000m of altitude will be a new experience.

Day 1: La Grave to the Selle refuge (2673m) via the Col de la Lauze (3512m)

We meet our guide, Jean-Paul, at La Grave. He has brought his wife and daughter along for the trip, explaining that they’ll be roped up separately, so are not technically part of our group. In addition to ourselves are Grenobloise Chantal and a Parisian couple, Pauline and Annette.

We set off, taking the cable-car to the top, just below the Rateau. Leaving the grotte de glace tourists behind, we step onto the Girose glacier. My crampons don’t seem properly adjusted to my boots. I hesitate to place my foot inside, as Jean-Paul instructs, confused by what he says about the crampon fitting. To my shock and amazement I find him literally shouting at me. I can’t believe it. How am I going to spend three days with this man … But fears are displaced, at least for now, by the staggering view. Across the valley, north of La Grave, the Aiguilles d’Arves glisten with the previous night’s dusting of snow. We are bathed in sunshine and the glacier looks sensational (see top).

Being roped up and walking “in formation” is a strange sensation. No possibility of stopping for a snack or drink, let alone a pee. Photo opportunities are confined to hasty snaps – before a yank from the person in front puts an end to it. An hour or so on we stop for a break and Juan and I scamper up the Dome de la Lauze. We are hardly catching our breath but Jean-Paul is already bidding us come down. Why the haste? Is it the biting wind, or some other reason? I drink in the 360 degree views,  and follow him down reluctantly.

It’s as we descend from the Col de la Lauze into the Selle valley that our problems start.

Descending from the Col de la Lauze to the Selle valley

Pauline and Annette are manifestly ill prepared for (or ill informed about?) the walk. It is walking, albeit down a very steep, snowy slope. But Annette has no stability, hunched over as she tentatively inches her way forward and down. It’s painful to watch, and even more agonising to have to stay roped up as a pack. I am ready to scream when – praise the Lord – Jean-Paul announces that we can unleash ourselves. Juan, Chantal and I speed on ahead. The relief is unimaginable. Slippy slidey snow. Weeha…

At the bottom of the descent, we bask on a grassy slope above the Selle refuge, waiting for the rest of the group to catch up. We can see Jean-Paul, at times far ahead of his herd, for a guide – and then, good, he is waiting for them. It should have taken us an hour, but is nearer 2.5 hours by the time we are all down. Jean-Paul is obviously concerned about the viability of the group, which is stretching the classic rule of going the pace of the slowest beyond what is safe.

Our late descent (which Jean-Paul admits was a mistake) meant the snow was unstable and could have avalanched. But he doesn’t seem to think any particular action is required on his part. By good fortune the two women have seen that their presence is jeopardizing the feasibility of the walk and they decide to pull out. It’s a sad moment – failure for them and (indirectly) Jean-Paul, and the loss of good company. But it has to be the right decision – and Jean-Paul is simply lucky that he didn’t have to impose it.

The Selle refuge

From the refuge we watch the sun’s last rays against the massif du Soreiller, then spend the evening chatting.

The massif du Soreiller glows amber in the setting sun

Jean-Paul perfunctorily teaches us a few knots. Clearly, we are the zillionth group he has done this exercise with. He brusquely informs us that we will be getting up at 5am, having breakfast at 5.02am and leaving at 5.30am. Yes, sir! I am awake most of the night, unable to shake off the stress of the day. But somehow manage to be ready for 5.45, completely zonked.

Day 2: Selle refuge (2673m) to Chatelleret refuge (2232m) via the Col du Replat (3201m)

Head torches light our way as we leave the refuge. By the time we reach the Selle glacier it is almost light. Crampons aren’t necessary here but as we walk up the eastern wall of the glacier they once again earn their places in our rucksacks. What a pleasure walking with them, our stability enhanced with so little effort.

Arriving at the Col du Replat

We arrive at the Col du Replat and perch there on a knife edge. The reward is generous: wonderful views all around, including south towards Gioberney and the Pilatte glacier, and east to the Dome des Ecrins.

A breather at Col du Replat

Snow turns into rock as climb down into the Selle valley

It’s too cold, not to mention vertiginous, to stay long. With some reluctance at losing hard-won altitude so soon, we rope up and begin the descent. There are some tricky passages scrambling down a rock wall. I find it’s tempting to use the rope like via ferrata, giving it my whole weight. But we are not hooked up to the rock, so this would be fatal. Jean-Paul yells at us to keep the rope between each of us taut – if one person falls their fall will then be less. But how can you do this when each of you is negotiating delicate foot positions, manoeuvring around awkward ledges? If the rope is taut we will pull each other off the mountain. As Jean-Paul barks at me from above (“Do you understand me, Rebecca?” Yes. “Then why aren’t you doing as I say?”), Juan simultaneously nags me to give him more slack. Grrrrrr!! Talk about being between a rock and a hard place …

On a sunny, flat rock we find a resting place for “lunch” (it’s only 10.30am), still above the snow line. We catch a glimpse of an ermine zipping around the rocks. Across the valley rock climbers attack a vertical wall.

We’ve been walking for five hours but Chatelleret refuge is still not even in sight. We set off again and practice a few ice-axe techniques on a scrap of snow. I then choose to dawdle, enjoying going at my own pace. Juan uses the opportunity to take some flower photos (Androsace pubescens – now how often have you seen that?!)

Androsace pubescens

I’m too tired to do anything other than will my feet down the path, as erratic cairns give way to a well tramped route. Across the Selle valley we can see tomorrow’s path disappearing up the northern end of the valley into what looks like an impassable precipice. I put it out of my mind. The mountains’ barks are sometimes worse than their bite.

We regroup outside the refuge and enjoy blueberry tart. The refuge has a lovely position alongside a river that ribbons to create a hundred picturesque picnic sites. Juan and I use the refuge shower, powered by the ultimate solar heating system: a long black hosepipe. Bliss. While our guide and family take a siesta the three of us find a spot by the river to chat, analyzing the faults of our guide and putting the world to rights. It’s an effort to stay awake but we’re determined not to undermine the possibility of sleep tonight.

Supper – and not a moment too soon. Jean-Paul surprises me with a party trick: how can you position three glasses and three knives so as to support a jug? (answer: it’s all in the way they overlap) Fuelled up, we waste no time in heading for bed, Juan protesting at the early hour but in fact not far behind the rest of us (what else can you do?!). The 20-bed dormitory is full, the ambiance high as a good French Camembert, and the malfunctioning window letting in gusts of near-freezing air. But nothing will stop sleep this time. Eight solid hours.

Day 3: Chatelleret refuge (2232m) to Villar d’Arène (1667m) via the Col du Clot des Cavales (3158m)

We are again a few minutes over Jean-Paul’s projected departure time – this time because he is behind schedule. Once again we set off as dawn breaks. The granite peaks are temporarily transformed into sandstone as the early sun picks them out. A magical time. 

We don’t need crampons until the last stretch of snow below the Col du Clot des Cavales. It’s a gritty, unpleasant walk: extremely steep, unstable underfoot and impossible to keep the rope straight and free from the many jutting rock faces that we have to pass around, and which break the continuity of line. Jean-Paul is impatient – all three of us answering him back like rebellious teenagers. What on earth does he expect from people who have never done this before?

From the col we look back to yesterday’s descent. From this perspective it looks barely credible as a route.

Col du Replat from Col du Clot des Cavales

To the east is the valley of the “Torrent du Clot des Cavales”, which joins the Romanche valley further on. With the sun shining straight towards us, and scree on all sides, the landscape is at its most austere. We enjoy the eagle’s eye view for a moment or two, but don’t dally. The wind, and knowledge that we still have many hours of walking ahead, push us on.

Here, at least, there’s no need for ropes. We zigzag down through the snow, the Pavé refuge soon revealing itself next to the lake of the same name; the path runs slightly south of the refuge, along textbook moraines.

Jean-Paul seems more than usually introspective. At the confluence of the two rivers rocky haute montagne scenery gives way to more gentle alpages frequented by a number of day walkers approaching from below. The greenery and flowers, and gentle gradient, are very welcome. I voice my appreciation to Jean-Paul but he either doesn’t hear or doesn’t want to hear, and says nothing.

Looking back up the Romanche valley from the Plan de l’Alpe

The end of the walk is beautiful, following the Romanche river east and then north to the car park just south of Villar d’Arène. It’s only the last half hour that really gets to us. Juan needs several breaks in order to make the distance. Back at the cars Jean-Paul offers us a chilled beer and we conduct an informal post mortem. It is extraordinary. Here’s this vastly experienced mountain man, with a devoted wife and daughter, finally acting like a human being. Relief at being able to talk adult to adult for the first time in three days is tempered by sadness at the wasted opportunity: with different group management this would have been such a different adventure.

Jean-Paul explains his bad temper as being common to all guides (really?), and that it was only when we were in danger that he lost his temper (?!) In his view there are any number of routes where the effort and aesthetic are better balanced. He claims the use of the description “randonnée glaciaire” by the Bureau des Guides is misrepresentative – this walk is more accurately début alpinisme. We charge him with the responsibility of reporting this back to the Bureau des Guides. “So no hard feelings, then?”, he asks us. And I guess there are none. But I’ll know what questions to ask next time.

Resident Grenoble Life photographer Suzanne Bonnefond invites you to discover the Diois region of the Vercors mountains near Grenoble.

Le Diois is a superb region in the South of the Vercors range near Grenoble, which already suggests the light and colours of the Provence. It can be reached via the Col de Menée, near Mont Aiguille, or the Col du Rousset. The latter pass, which descends on Die, is particularly spectacular.

From the Col de Menée you find the tiny village of Benevise and can easily do a fantastic walk in the Vallon de Combeau.

There’s a lot more to see: le Cirque d’Archiane, in the valley near Menée village, a hamlet surrounded by pink cliffs, from where there are numerous trails towards the plateaus of the Vercors.

Joseph Schott anticipating life in Grenoble

Joseph Schott has come from the USA, via Japan, to do an MBA at the Grenoble Graduate School of Business. We will be following him ‘From Admission to Graduation’ as he blogs on life and learning in the Capital of the Alps.

Hello, my name is Joseph Schott. I’ll be starting at the Grenoble Graduate School of Business as an MBA student in September. I’m originally from the United States, but I spent the last four years in Japan with the JET Programme. While I was there, I taught English as a foreign language, did some translation and interpretation, and led a small non-profit that performs some support functions for the JET Programme.

While the cities in Japan are beautiful and convenient, the whole country is also full of mountains. It is a great place to be if you like hiking or rock climbing. It was hard to leave! I originally studied social sciences in the US, but working in Japan with people from around the world made me want to get more involved in international business. So after considering the great location of GGSB, (and drooling over pictures of French cheese) I put my interests together and applied at Grenoble.

I’ve been asked to write about my hopes and fears, as well as what I’m doing to prepare for my new life in Grenoble. I’ll start with the juicy bit and go right into my fears. It goes without saying that moving to a new country is a very complicated process, and a lot of the time I’m just glancing at my calendar, hoping that nothing goes wrong. However, my biggest worry about coming to Grenoble is the language. I only just started studying French a few weeks ago, and I’m an absolute beginner.

I’ve been told that Grenoble has a very large and vibrant international community, and from what I’ve seen on this blog, the range of people you can meet is one of the city’s highlights. At the same time, I’m not under any illusion that I’ll be having an easy time without speaking any French! In Japan, I was usually the one helping other people navigate bureaucracy and solve communication problems, but in Grenoble I’ll be back to being a beginner. On the other hand, I’m excited to pick up a third language to use in business and for making new friends. And for that I’m going to need to speak a lot more French!

I’ve found lots of French language resources and language tapes, and I’ve been carrying my beloved Anki around with me everywhere. If you’ve never heard of Anki or other similar tools (they are usually called spaced repetition systems or SRS), I’d definitely recommend checking one out. The idea is that you can store huge amounts of small facts as virtual flashcards, and the program will take care of scheduling which cards you review. So for example, you might eventually have 3,000 vocabulary words, and Anki will bring up about 100 each day. It can make sure that difficult phrases and words are brought back frequently, and things that you’ve already memorized are brought up sparingly. It works from my mobile, and I use it while I’m on the train, waiting in a line, or when a conversation is waning. Best of all it’s open source.

I’ve also been brushing up on my math and finance, and reading some books to get ready to go back to school. I’m currently reading a book on job hunting and just finished an interesting book on Google’s business model and path to success. I’ve also subscribed to a few rss feeds from business blogs. I’ve seen some interesting articles on www.voxeu.org, www.deadlysins.info/wordpress, blogs.hbr.org, as well as many others. Reading these keeps me excited for the intensive studying that will start in September. I also watch many of the presentations from the TED Conference, which are very short, but center on global issues and very inspiring.

However, wrapping up my life in Japan and saying farewell to everyone I’ve met has been the most difficult part of my preparation for Grenoble. Changing location so often, especially between countries, gives you a chance to meet lots of interesting people, and with social networking services like facebook, mixi, and so on, it is easier than ever to stay connected. At the same time though, these applications can make it easy to give yourself the illusion of being connected and ignore the real value of the relationships you’ve made. Before moving my focus to Grenoble, one of my biggest tasks has been to properly say goodbye to all of the amazing people I met in Japan.

As I finish these preparations and the start of classes draws closer and closer, I find myself feeling more and more excited each day. I can’t wait to meet the other members of my class and get started on my new life. I’m also looking forward to checking out the climbing gym near the school, relaxing at one of the cafés around the city, and trying out the hiking in the three surrounding mountain ranges.

I first got involved in climbing in Japan, where it is just starting to really become popular. Actually, people there use some French terms as loan words too, such as gaston (ガストン). I did mostly bouldering, so I’m excited to learn more about top-roping and outside routes, which I’ve heard are more popular in France. The nearby mountains look they’ll be great for hiking, and maybe I can even spot a Dahu!

Essential Questions. Photo: banlon1964

Grenoble Life editor James Dalrymple shares five pearls of wisdom gleaned from teaching English to professionals in the city.

This month presents a watershed moment for me professionally as I end my stint as a teacher-trainer – of mostly professional adults – at a private institute and prepare for my first taste of l’éducation nationale française. Having obtained a post on campus as a lecteur, I will complete the job that has defined my experience in France since my arrival, and take a step into the unknown.

Some might say that the move from formateur to lecteur will be a case of “out of the frying pan and into the fire,” but, as a cathartic act of drawing a line under my experience, I have compiled a list of five pearls of sagesse concerning teaching professional English in France.

1. Everybody speaks English now, right?

Wrong. Even if English has gone global, there will be times when you are confronted with students who have apparently never spoken it before, let alone knowingly seen or heard it. Even in cosmopolitan Grenoble, expect to have to teach some adults who are closer to vrais than faux debutants.

Why should everyone speak English? I have had the unenviable task of trying to teach people who had neither significant professional need to speak the language, nor a lifelong burning passion to begin doing so. At one time I had to manage a contract with a medium-size manufacturer, at which all the shop floor operators were obliged to have English training. For many of these mostly middle aged men (and some women) from the shop floor, whose modest education was a distant memory, the effort spent in learning English vastly outweighed the reward.

No doubt these same men could acquire certain technical skills faster than I ever could, yet English remained alien and abstract despite many hours in contact with it. During my time with these people, I am ashamed to admit that I may have learnt more from them (about industry, about how things are made) than they learnt from me.

Most English teachers in the private sector will probably relate to my feeling that many student-trainees have been permanently damaged by a school approach to language learning that was, for many, didactic and dogmatic rather than communicative or intuitive. It is often difficult to get the French to let go of the idea of grammar as language’s evil twin, and that speaking a language is akin to navigating a minefield of punishable mistakes.

2. « On est nuls en Anglais en France »

Despite what I said in observation one, many French people speak excellent English. Countless times I have met students who, upon eloquently introducing themselves, feel the need to add the little disclaimer that their English is terrible and how embarrassed they are to speak it. Normally I point of out the window at this moment and ask them which country they live in, where they grew up, and why on earth they are not prouder to be able to express themselves in another language, even if only a little.

Maybe it says something about the French attitude to their own language that they would prefer not to speak another if they can’t speak it beautifully. Compared to Britain though, where learning foreign languages has been in serious decline since a law was passed making it no longer mandatory after the age of 14, the French are a nation of linguists.

3. Time = results

Not necessarily. Interest and enthusiasm for the language and the culture remain paramount. Too many people are sent for English training as if sent to learn any other professional skill. I have often been confronted by a belief that time spent in the classroom will automatically be rewarded with improved TOEIC scores, for example. Professional need is no substitute for passion for the subject, and the fact that many adults in France come to training out of obligation rather than choice engenders a passive attitude to learning which is often an obstacle to meaningful progress.

4. I want to speak Business English

Unfortunately for teachers, human resources and training managers – not all known for their broad knowledge of language pedagogy – often insist upon certain thématiques for the ESL classroom. In my opinion there is too much interference from companies who want to impose skills-based English upon their employees. However, you can’t run before you can walk, and it is very frustrating being told to teach students how to participate in a meeting in English, or speak on the telephone, for example, without having mastered the basics.

5. Grenoble needs an International House

Grenoble has an enormous market for English teaching, but no focal point to promote excellence or provide training for its teachers. For us long-term formateurs, we need to do more to share our ideas and improve standards. Hard-working teachers also need to feel that their efforts be rewarded with the possibility of professional development, whereas often the door to such progress seems permanently closed. As far as I know there is currently nowhere to do the CELTA in Grenoble – an internationally recognised English teaching certificate that does not hold nearly as much weight as it should in France – although Marianne Reynaud organises TESOL-affiliated seminars.

Given the size of the English teaching sector in Grenoble, there should be an innovative and internationally-accredited institute like International House where teachers can be trained and learn to train others. Such an institute could act as a catalyst for improving standards and, by bringing teachers together, raising the morale and pride among the ESL workforce.

Free toilets in France tend to serve only 50% of the population

Finding public conveniences in France not up to much? Grenoble Life’s resident Australian Shonah Kennedy reports from the front line.

Having arrived at Paris Gare de Lyon an hour prior to the TGV leaving, I decided to try out Le Train Blue café express.  This forced lunch time also coincided with a call of nature. Perfect – delicious lunch in an iconic café (well, the express part) and the thought of clean facilities to use – free of charge too – or so I thought. I was assuming a little too much.  After going down the steps, I was greeted with a barrier that asked me for 20 centimes. I thought this must not apply to sit-down diners, so I asked my friendly waitress and her answer was confusing to me. Having thought I misunderstood, I repeated my question in a different way, but I received the same answer. I took my 20 centimes, placed it in the slot and was allowed entry into the exclusive world of European facilities – or lack thereof.

I have a social problem when it comes to needing the bathroom in France. And, may I just point out here that I have lived in different countries in Europe and seemingly this is a Europe-wide problem. However, now that I am living in France, this is the country I am picking on – I drink a lot of water.

Prior to leaving the house every morning I drink one litre of water and my ritual café au lait! My difficulties begin about half an hour after I lock the door and leave my clean, reliable facilities far behind. Perhaps it is all psychological as I don’t see others with that grimaced expression on their faces looking beseechingly up and down every street in search of the elusive cubicle. BUT, here we can remove almost 50% of the population as there ARE public urinals (as unhygienic as they look) scattered around Grenoble for those more vertical in their activities. THEN, to add some sort of insult to the matter, I have also seen a number of doggy toileting areas. 

What about the female of the species? Why is it we must pay for the privilege of hovering above a bowl? AND, may I interject here and say even though we do pay (and up to 70 centimes in some places – I get desperate) it does not guarantee the cleanliness of the area or the provision of paper.

So … in my quest of need I have found some amenities – and at times free – I would like to share with you.

You can of course boldly go where many people have gone before and risk the cafés/brasseries. This can be done by walking in as if you own the place – or are at least dining there. This plan is often foiled when you get that lost look on your face and it is evident to all that your only intention is using the bathroom* and you aren’t dining there, had no intention of dining there and probably never will. Or you could be completely honest and ever so sweetly ask “Puis-je utiliser vos toilettes s’il vous plaît?” Be prepared for holding on just a little longer, however.

Then there are the chain restaurants/coffee houses. The only reason I ever walk into these places is on the off chance the big burly guard is not standing against the wall asking to see your receipt, so that you have the exclusive right to use their second rate facilities. Normally you can see if he/she is on duty before you get so far into your mission you have to explain yourself to the self appointed toilet* bouncer.

There are a number of so-called self-cleaning toilet cubicles found around Grenoble. They do cost – normally 20 centimes (that you need the exact change for) – and from experience I have only used one that looked like it had been doing its job properly (on the North East corner of Place Du Dr L. Martin). Sadly the others I have tried: next to the merry-go-round in front of FNAC; behind the market at St Claire Les Halles; and at Leader Price in Seyssinet, should be relieved of their self-cleaning duties due to a job not well done.

Then, there is my find of the year – The Bibliothèque Municipale de Grenoble. On the first floor, on the left hand side there is a toilet. It is guard free, does not require any donation and normally there is paper! However, do take hand sanitiser as the soap is usually missing. But, it is a toilet. It is in the centre of town and it is relatively clean.

I hope there are others out there who share my European social inadequacy and can help with any alternative treasures they have found when nature calls.

*Australian English = toilet; American English = Bathroom (When visiting America I received some vulgar looks after asking where the toilet was!)