What do YOU love about Grenoble?
March 19th, 2010 | Published in Comment, Features, Life & Culture | 20 Comments
Gratin dauphinois. Photo: Marylise Doctrinal
It’s a no-brainer really. Grenoble Life wants your comments about favourite things to see, do, eat and drink in Grenoble and its surroundings.
I have been asked by French Entrée to write a post on what to do and see in Grenoble. Upon tackling this in earnest I found myself baulking at the task. An increasingly poorly written list began with a walk to the Bastille, continuing through the various museums to barely legible mentions of the more attractive squares in the old town. Then, I thought, rather than regurgitating the generic Grenoble itinerary, I thought I would solicit a more idiosyncratic list of Grenoblois pleasures, open to suggestions from YOU. What and where do you like to eat, where do you drink and people-watch? Tell me about your favourite local walks, markets, parks, neighbourhoods.
Here is my idiosyncratic inventory of Grenoble favourites, a by-no-means-comprehensive list of reasons to be cheerful. I’m sorry if this heralds few surprises and all seems a bit generic … please use the comments box for your personal lists below.
- ‘Glacier Gonzales’ (Rue Servan). As good as ice cream gets, in my view.
- Driving along the Voie Sur Berge, with its colourful diaporama of the Quai opposite, reminds me of the climax of The Italian Job, even if my Citroën Saxo is not a Mini Cooper and I’m in the wrong country.
- Cycling the banks of the Isère, with its generous network of lanes.
- The crazy geometric paving stones on the University campus. Far out!
- The crumbling beauty of the St Laurent district.
- Drinking kirs and people watching on Place St André (aka Place du Trib) in the summer.
- Sitting on the sofas at the musée de Grenoble when it’s quiet, which it usually is.
- Tartes and hot chocolate at ‘Tarteline’ (Grande Rue).
- Fromage blanc at the dairy farm at Charmant Som, with bilberry coulis.
- Fondue at ‘A Confesse’ in St Laurent
- Parmigiana at ‘Ciao a Te’ (Rue de la Paix)
- Pizza in general. But if I am to be perfectly honest, my favourite pizzas come from a camionette in Montbonnot rather than one of the many along the Quai or elsewhere in Grenoble itself. However, it is my contention that you can find a good pizza more easily in Grenoble than in the tourist hot-spots in Italy itself.
- The tram. Being on the tram makes me happy, even it doesn’t go anywhere near my home. Watching it glide onto campus or snake through the old town makes me misty-eyed with pride and affection for my adopted home town.
- Bastille Day fireworks at Parc Paul Mistral.
- Being able to watch a football match at the Stade des Alpes and then stroll back into town for a beer. Even if the standard of football from the home side has been appalling this season.
- La Nef and Le Club. Old school cinemas with dependable art house programmes.
- Gratin dauphinois when it is freshly made (i.e., not resurrected after deep-freeze hibernation). To my memory, the best I’ve had in a restaurant was at the ‘Café des Alpes’ on the way up to Le Sappey ski resort.
- La Fête de la Musique. A nationwide event, admittedly, but one that impressed upon me something about the French. In England such an event could not happen without copious amounts of drink and drugs, and thus a heavy police presence – a sentiment echoed in Lucy Wadham’s The Secret Life of France (a book well worth reading by the way).
- The old town. I was surprised when I came to Grenoble how many French people – Grenoblois or not – were dismissive about the city, saying it wasn’t beautiful. It may not have great monuments of individual interest but I like the character of the old town and its attractive squares. You can give me this over the British high street, with its identikit shopping precincts, any day.
- The white-capped Belledonne massif, providing its luminous theatre scenery to the city.
Ok, your turn …
March 19th, 2010 at 5:54 pm (#)
Best pizza – hand tossed crust that is both crisp and slihgtly chewy, at La Chandelle, 24 Avenue Félix Viallet.
Best raclette – melted on a charcoal braiser at your table the old-fashioned way, with a resulting smoky taste that is authentic raclette. ‘Café des Alpes’ as you already mentioned above.
Best cheese – L’Alpage on rue Strasbourg. The line is always out the door.
Second your suggestion of fondue at La Confesse! Not just cheese, but chocolate too…
Ah, I have cheese on the brain today. It’s nearly the end of winter, time to anticipate the fresh produce that will be arriving from farms all around here…down at the far end of the Estacade Marche…
March 21st, 2010 at 6:15 am (#)
I spent several months in Grenoble and this post made me so nostalgic!!! I miss it so much.
One of my favorite pizzas in the city is actually from Little Italy, the food stall across from Monoprix at the Maison du Tourisme stop…the little pizzas (esp. pizza aux champignons) are so good! Amazing crust and the mushrooms are always fresh. Best crêpes were from the crêpe cart on the SE corner of Place Victor Hugo @ the intersection of Rue Victor Hugo and Rue Béranger.
My favorite walk in the city is from Parc Paul Mistral (I lived near there) and through the Jardin des Plantes and then up Rue Dominique Villars/Rue Bayard and then popping out by the Antiques Quarter. I also loved loved loved running along the Isère towards the campus becuase of the beautiful views of the Belledone.
I loved the tram more than anything..that along with the open air markets at Place Sainte-Claire and Place aux Herbes were my favorite things in the city.
What else do I love about Grenoble……the lovely stretch of street between Sainte-Claire les Halles and Notre Dame Musée…the Camionnette sur le campus…sunny days at the Jardin des Plantes….the voice of the tram announcer (spent SO many hours on the trams)…watching the slow march of les bulles to the top of the Bastille from random parts of town…the hordes of people at Place Grenette when it’s sunny out…macarons from Les Ecrins on Rue de Bonne (best macarons I’ve had ever, I still like them better than Pierre Hermé)…the happy happy happy ladies at the Banette at Place aux Herbes…the view of the mountains looking straight down Avenue de Valmy…hearing foot matches from my bedroom…popping my head out of my skylight to see the Belledonne…the quiet peacefulness of the Musée and their really comfy leather chairs…buying flowers from the shops by Sainte Claire les Halles…Sunday morning brunches at Pain et Cie…the man who works at the crêpe cart at Place Victor Hugo….the student run café in the art history/history building at UPMF…lying on the lawn in front of the Bibliothèque universitaire…the immense overwhelmingness of Géant Casino…the Frange Verte…sailing on Lac Laffrey…the buffet indien on Cours Jean Jaurès…the natural foods store on Cours de la Libération (Casabio?)…the little kids riding the horse cart things at the jardin de ville….I could go on and on
March 22nd, 2010 at 6:07 pm (#)
this is very interesting for the average “grenobloise” (having been here for over 25 years !! ) and all this seems so usual that I just don’t even notice it … Like all French people, I find Grenoble quite ugly, except for the place du Tribunal which is has been cleaned lately..
I will enjoy my town a little more .. Thank you
March 22nd, 2010 at 7:48 pm (#)
GREAT pizza at bella pizza in Corenc (wood fired and worth the trip out of Grenoble (on ave du Gresivaudan)
The walk from Meylan up to the village in Corenc. There is so much village life just outside of Grenoble!
The bio markets on Ave Ayguinards, Meylan.
And now to try all those other wonderful things others have mentioned…
March 24th, 2010 at 10:21 am (#)
One of my favorites is eating at Le Coq Hardi, this little oh-so-French bistro behind the FNAC that serves excellent plats du jour at good prices.
I agree with a lot of James’s faves: taking the tram, driving on the voies sur berges and yes, feeling that extra little bit of excitement, the run-down Italian feel of Saint Laurent, and the brioche-blueberry tart at Charmont Som.
I also get all excited about the history and mystery of Chartreuse. It really is almost a religious experience.
What else? Oh, le Magasin contemporary art museum, just because,the artists they feature must be some whacked out types and their exhibits are so spacey, but that’s why they’re fun. I don’t understand any of it either.
And one more thing, brunch at the Pumpkins, just because it’s like a refreshing mini-trip back to the States. If I have a Sunday morning there, I know I’m going to have a good week.
March 24th, 2010 at 10:28 am (#)
Thanks everybody,
Christina – I have to agree with you about the Chartreuse, particularly the Saint Hugues church near St. Pierre du Chartreuse. I am not a religious person but I had a very spiritual experience there. Check out this video diary if you haven’t already.
March 25th, 2010 at 12:15 pm (#)
[...] Pour en savoir plus, nous vous invitons à découvrir en anglais sur le site de notre partenaire cet article de grenoblelife.com. [...]
March 27th, 2010 at 12:51 pm (#)
I’ve only been in Grenoble for about 7 months, so I have the new-city feeling fresh in mind!
Even though I do find the city (at least outside centre ville) rather ugly (sorry), what is wonderful is biking through town and on each turn getting glimpses of the mountains in the distance, especially in the fall when it’s still sunny but the mountains are covered in snow.
Also, reading on the lawn in the Jardin de Ville, surrounded by all the teenage couples.
AND! the churros in the Parc Victor Hugo, for less than 2 euros. You have to go to the one in the southeast corner, on the other side from the tram lines.
April 9th, 2010 at 3:04 pm (#)
I’ve been in Grenoble for about 3 years. And this is my idiosyncratic list.
1) The steps leading down to the Isere river next to the Pont St Laurent. This is a great place to lose yourself.
2) The view point next to the Musee Dauphinois on mid-way to the Bastille. You have a panaromic view of Grenoble that is especially nice in the evening sun. And this comes at just 5 minute walk from downtown.
3) The glade for BBQs at the north-west end of the Bastille. You reach up to it by climbing for 10 minutes from near the Intermarche over the Porte de la France. Several memorable BBQs were had there by me and friends, including one when we got wet from unsuspected showers.
4) The “frange verte” park at the south of Grenoble (Echirolles) which leads up to the “Etang de Haute Jarrie”. The park is accessible through tram A. You get a nice walk in the countryside and then reach the marsh, which is a good spot to watch migratory birds in the summer time. The snow-capped Belledonne mountain is brilliant in their reflection on the pond waters. This is a nice walk to do if you (like me) wake up late on a weekend and find sunny weather outside. It’s never too late to plan for a hike in the woods / mountains in Grenoble.
5) The cascade and the woods at the Sassenage village, to the north of Grenoble. There are caves here to explore for people who like doing that sort of thing. Otherwise, there are cool spots near the cascade for having a picnic in the nature, or for reading a book (I did spot some people doing this !). This place is also accessible through Tram A, and is a good alternative for a last minute plan to profit from a sunny day.
6) The walk up to the Murier fort and the park next to it, from St Martin D’Heres. It is especially beautiful in autumn, and has a good view of the Belledonne.
7) The “Just Beers” association in the Quartier St Laurent which throws open its doors on Thursday evenings, where you can meet random cheerful strangers supping random cheerful beers.
8) The bike path snaking along the Isere river. The “Ile d’amour” park is along this path next to the campus; it is another good place for BBQs.
9) The Druid’s Irish pub, which is my favorite pub in Grenoble. They have a group of amateur celtic musicians that play there on some of the evenings.
10) The night view of Grenoble from the top of the Bastille. There are several corners around there to enjoy this view while consuming liberal amounts of Chartreuse..
I haven’t mentioned any of the mountains outside of Grenoble. There are too many great places to see.
April 9th, 2010 at 4:17 pm (#)
Wow! Thanks Kiran for your thoughtful and informative list – lots of new things for me to explore here.
Keep ‘em coming guys!
April 12th, 2010 at 1:41 pm (#)
You are welcome James. I really liked your blog post, thanks for sharing the little things you like about Grenoble :) it inspired me to do the same actually.
April 15th, 2010 at 12:48 pm (#)
1) Jardin Botanique (in Campus). There is a small pond between trees and its the just beautiful watching the reflections play out in the water. Also its a riot of colours in autumn.
2) Climbing onto to Moucherotte for that glimpse of Grenoble. Also must see is to climb on Bastille day and see the fireworks lit up on the city below.
3) The ugliness of the concrete transformed into something surreal which it snows out.
April 25th, 2010 at 8:44 pm (#)
have only been here for a few short months so here is my small contribution:
- le tonneau de diogene – for a quiet night out with friends when you’re strapped for money (right in place notre dame, across the street for the church/cathedral)
- I second the opinion about Gonzales ice cream and jardin des plantes
May 24th, 2010 at 11:55 am (#)
Great input! It has been very helpful so far!
July 15th, 2011 at 3:23 am (#)
I just got back from my two week vacation in Grenoble. Reading your posts makes me feel how much I missed the city and how much I really want to spent more time three. My husband is still there and I will send him this link so that he can explore more. But for me, i loved climbing Bastille just behind our Rue de St-Laurent apartment. Every time I climbed. I found something new or different view of the city and alps surrounding the city. Oh, yeah, the river, Isere, open market, patisserie, boulangerie, restaurants, tram have all given me unforgivable memory of the city. It is ironic when I arrived in Paris, for one day before flying back to the States, I told my husband that I missed Grenoble already. I love Paris, but Grenoble has her own charm.
October 6th, 2011 at 2:20 pm (#)
Finally I have arrived in Grenoble to live with my new French beau. It is not a city which ever crossed my mind until I met my boyfriend but I love it now. My favourite place so far is the Table Ronde. 7 Place Saint-Andre. Walking down the Rue d’Agier the street becomes a
October 6th, 2011 at 2:23 pm (#)
Sorry Nadeen, seems we lost you there. Please come back to tell us more …
November 12th, 2012 at 4:19 pm (#)
where is the best places for night life to cheat with beautiful French girls?
November 13th, 2012 at 9:38 am (#)
Ha ha … can anyone help Francesco?
November 13th, 2012 at 9:39 am (#)
ha ha, can anyone help Francesco?